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NO Sound - iRiver H140 / iBasso D10 via optical - HELP! - Page 3

post #31 of 53
Thread Starter 
Well... I in spite of seeing what "appears" to be a nice bright light, I guess I have to assume it "could" be damaged and I suppose it could have been damaged in shipping.

Personally, I am NOT going to take blame for any damage to the connecter as I have gone WAY out of my way to baby it. It seems fragile to me.

I never insert or remove by putting any pressure or pulling on the cable. I always push and pull on the round connector housing.

If it were damaged by me - just from inserting and removing so VERY carefully, it is WAY to fragile. I have NOT even carried the combo around yet with the connector attached since it doesn't work. I have made sure to use pretty good velcro that doesn't allow hardly any movement between the two units. I don't know how I could have damaged the connector.

I have actually "started" constructing a foam cut-out protector to put over the bottom of my combo to specifically protect that connector.

I asked Joseph about recommendations for protecting the cable. Because of the way the H140 lines up with the D10 when connected and ideally having both the D10's volume and headphone out jack at the top (carried vertically in a Case Logic Case that I found to fit the combo), the unit "sits" on the optical connector inside the bag which has been a concern for me. However, as mentioned above, I have yet to actually carry the H140 connected with the D10 since it doesn't work yet. For now, I have been carrying the D10 with iPod connected at top with mini jack in the case.

Further, I try to avoid stressing the connector and it's 90 degree bends by inserting slowly and alternating sides of insertion and only inserting each side about 1/3 at a time.

The connector came to me in Paper/bubble bag - which may not have been sufficient (????).
Unfortunately, I already trashed the paper/bubble bag, but I don't remember it looking in bad condition at all. I purchase a fair amount of stuff online, so by nature if the packaging had looked rough, I would have probably held on to it to make sure everything was O.K.
But, the connector looked very fine as best I could tell - although I suppose I might not be able to tell for sure - So, I guess don't really know.

I suppose ideally, the connector maybe should have been in a "Rigid" box like container - maybe hard plastic, tin or a good heavy duty (even if small) sized cardboard box - prior to the paper/bubble bag.

I actually received the connector on Tuesday, but I didn't have any songs loaded into my H140 until Wednesday night. - Been working through my problems with the system via this thread since Wednesday night.

I haven't called Joseph yet, because up until last night, I didn't think the conector could possibly be at fault.

At this point, I am about 90% leaning towards the connector being the issue, but it will take a good bit of time and effort for me to realistically eliminate the small chance that the:

H140 signal strength is too weak (works with VERY loose "Hand-Held" Toslink cable to Pioneer Receiver) - Seems unlikely to be the H140.

OR

D10 receiver sensitivity being too weak - But, it works fine with A/C CD player and apparently worked VERY fine with a MacBook Pro.

This custom cable just seems the most likely issue.


Should I really spend the time and effort to try to hunt down an adaptor and other Optical sources and receivers to keep testing the H140's signal strength and D10's reception sensitivity? Or should I just contact Joseph and work out a replacement and hope that fixes it?

If I am looking at ordering an adapter for my Toslink to Toslink cable, I could just order it from him.... and wait out the two weeks.

.
post #32 of 53
I'm not implying that you mishandled the FO cable. All I'm saying is that it might be the cause of the problem that you are experiencing from the start. And I'm not implying too that Sysconcept knowingly sent you a bad cable. But s***t happens.

I have tried what you did. The Toslink end inserted in the iHP-120 all the way in and the miniplug just inserted in the D10 but not locked in. It played fine.
post #33 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wuwhere View Post
I'm not implying that you mishandled the FO cable. All I'm saying is that it might be the cause of the problem that you are experiencing from the start. And I'm not implying too that Sysconcept knowingly sent you a bad cable. But s***t happens.

I have tried what you did. The Toslink end inserted in the iHP-120 all the way in and the miniplug just inserted in the D10 but not locked in. It played fine.

wuwhere,

Don't take anything I said the wrong way. I wasn't trying to imply in any way that you or anyone else implied I damaged or mishandled the cable.

I was just pointing out that it just "Shouldn't" have been me with the care I have taken with the cable - probably for my own edification and that it is "possible" something happened in the mail, but it "Looks" fine and the packaging seemed fine from the mail. So, I am just speaking my confused mind a bit on the keyboard. Sorry.

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post #34 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDW View Post
wuwhere,

Don't take anything I said the wrong way. I wasn't trying to imply in any way that you or anyone else implied I damaged or mishandled the cable.

I was just pointing out that it just "Shouldn't" have been me with the care I have taken with the cable - probably for my own edification and that it is "possible" something happened in the mail, but it "Looks" fine and the packaging seemed fine from the mail. So, I am just speaking my confused mind a bit on the keyboard. Sorry.

.
None taken . Just get a miniplug to toslink adapter. Good luck.
post #35 of 53
Check if the firmware on the iRiver isn't the issue. Dunno why but when I first got my iRiver, it would work with some DACs but not others. When I updated the firmware it started working with others.
post #36 of 53
Also I can't recall if you did this yet...but you can take any other regular optical cable lying around and just connect it to the D10 and line up the other end by hand to the H140 jack.....like you did with your receiver.

I can hold a jack almost an 1/2 inch away from the actual port and it will still carry a signal across the open space.
post #37 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElEsido View Post
Oh, and while you're at it: ask them to replace the faulty resistor which is described here: iBasso D10. Cobra Resistor Error « Madwolf. That should be considered a design error and should be covered by the warranty as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfen68 View Post
To my understanding, this was refuted by ibasso and is not a design error after all.
Does anyone know more about this?
post #38 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjcha View Post
Check if the firmware on the iRiver isn't the issue. Dunno why but when I first got my iRiver, it would work with some DACs but not others. When I updated the firmware it started working with others.

That is an interesting possibility (??????).

I just received this H140 "Refurbished" from the factory.
While waiting, I received an email stating the unit was going through "device function and full testing" I probably assumed that included updating to the latest firmware. But, that assumption could have very well been wrong. (?????)

When I boot the H140, the screen shows: VER 1.30 U

Anyone know the value of that version???

.
post #39 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfen68 View Post
Also I can't recall if you did this yet...but you can take any other regular optical cable lying around and just connect it to the D10 and line up the other end by hand to the H140 jack.....like you did with your receiver.

Yeah. I did that with my Toslink to Toslink cable. Worked VERY easily from H140 to Pioneer, but I could get the same trick to work with my D10.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfen68 View Post
I can hold a jack almost an 1/2 inch away from the actual port and it will still carry a signal across the open space.
Yeah. I was "AMAZED" at how much play I had and how much I could move the optical cable around and still keep the signal playing from the H140 to the Pioneer.

That is a large part of why I am so baffled that I couldn't get it to work from the H140 to the D10.

???? Maybe the firmware is part of the problem (?????) I don't know how firmware affects the light signal to allow one receiver to work and not another.

Anyone else have any thoughts on the firmware idea?

.
post #40 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDW View Post
That is an interesting possibility (??????).

I just received this H140 "Refurbished" from the factory.
While waiting, I received an email stating the unit was going through "device function and full testing" I probably assumed that included updating to the latest firmware. But, that assumption could have very well been wrong. (?????)

When I boot the H140, the screen shows: VER 1.30 U

Anyone know the value of that version???

.
Yeah, You need 1.66. Send me an email and I will send you the latest.
post #41 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Yeah, You need 1.66. Send me an email and I will send you the latest.
Actually I would just load RockBox. It is much better software than iRiver. I can't stand the iRiver software.
post #42 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElEsido View Post
Does anyone know more about this?
This is all I can find for now....

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f105/i...ml#post5868849
post #43 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Yeah, You need 1.66. Send me an email and I will send you the latest.


John,

Email sent with my email contact info.

Thanks for your help in this.



I will be away from my computer till late tonight. Going to a friends to watch both football games.

.
post #44 of 53
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Actually I would just load RockBox. It is much better software than iRiver. I can't stand the iRiver software.



I have read that EVERYONE prefers Rockbox. So, I figured I would be doing that. But, if I understood correctly, I have a 90 day warranty on this refurbished H140. And I was under the impression (could be wrong) that adding something like Rockbox might void the warranty.

I "Assumed" I should make sure everything worked before upgrading to Rockbox. Since it isn't working right now and the H140 still could "possibly" be the issue, I figured I should hold off on Rockbox until I confirm everything is working as it should.

Not that I would use it much, but something I haven't been able to find/figure out yet about Rockbox with the H140: Does the FM tuner still work with the Rockbox upgrade to the H140?
post #45 of 53
I would load 1.66 first and confirm that everything works A-OK before starting your Rockbox adventure.
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