I tried out a bunch of different tips, yet found myself going back to the originals -they seal really well for me! I guess I'm lucky.
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I want to thanks Vincent from IFI who has sent me the sample for the review. In the past, on my site www.stereo-head.it and on head fi, I’ve already reviewed some IFI’s electronics and i...
Disclosure: I received these headphones from Sony Australia as a review sample to keep. Here is my video review of the 10R, as well as some brief notes about the sound and build of the...
My Story First of all - WOW. This is my first set of proper Hi-fi/Mid-fi cans. It's also easily the best sounding anything I've ever had the pleasure of listening to. However, since I'm new to...
I stumbled upon these headphones after numerous hours of research. To be quite honest, I'd never heard of this brand before so I was a bit hesitant before making the jump; especially after owning...
Let me start with the good, and then explain why you should never buy this IEM. Sound signature: The treble, mids and bass are sort of like that of an HD800, except downgraded. For example, one...
Audio Technica ATH-CK10 - Page 80post #1186 of 14714/29/11 at 7:22am
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #1187 of 14715/1/11 at 10:21am
Ok, I am finally part of the CK10 owners club since two days and I am really not disappointed so far. =)
Funny that despite having read so many comments about how really small they are I still got surprised when I received them.
And about that I was wondering... how people pull them back ? By pulling the cord or trying to catch the shells ?
The strain reliefs seem solid, but I still have some kind of apprehension of pulling the cord but the shells are so hard to catch.post #1188 of 14715/1/11 at 10:37am
This is a major flaw with the CK10s, I wouldn't recommend pulling on the cable because the strain reliefs will eventually loose grip on the cable and expose the wiring. Pulling on the cable in general isn't a good idea for any iem, I only do it with the EQ5s because they have some sort of mechanism that protects it but even then I will try to grab the housing once in a while. Catching the housing is indeed tedious and hard, I personally had success pushing the housing to a twist in order to get it a bit loose in order to get a more comfortable catch. It's tedious either way, but this method helped my finger tips : ).
Edited by Inks - 5/1/11 at 10:55ampost #1189 of 14715/1/11 at 11:24ampost #1190 of 14715/1/11 at 11:34am
Well that also has it's complications, trying to reach the housing isn't the easiest but it's also the safest. But if you also need to take them off your ears faster than usual you can do a little pulling on the strain relief and grab the housing afterwards but make the pulling gentle and slow.
Edited by Inks - 5/1/11 at 11:35ampost #1191 of 14715/1/11 at 11:52ampost #1192 of 14715/1/11 at 12:02pmpost #1193 of 14715/1/11 at 1:04pmTo remove them I gently pull from the strain reliefs, closer to the housing where the rubber is thicker.
If you look back some pages you'll find a pic where someone put two color coded strips of tape around the strain reliefs to differentiate left/right(blue/red).post #1194 of 14715/1/11 at 1:14pm
well, i've been pulling by the strain reliefs for over a year now, and they're still working great. the reliefs are part of the rubber that encases the actual body so they're structurally sound. unless you have gargantuan fingers, its rather easy to reach them.post #1195 of 14715/2/11 at 7:52am
Isn't the shape the biggest differentiator? I mean wearing over the ear..you can easily tell which one is the left or right piece just by feeling the shape of the pieces..and in this case the metal side would be on the outside. I think I rarely use the R/L indicator on the earphones.
Quote:post #1196 of 14715/2/11 at 8:44ampost #1197 of 14715/2/11 at 8:59ampost #1198 of 14715/2/11 at 9:08ampost #1199 of 14715/2/11 at 9:26ampost #1200 of 14715/2/11 at 5:03pm
$250 at accessory jack is the cheapest and best place to buy atm. Or maybe used ones around $200-220 ish.
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