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Building a CKKIII

post #1 of 18
1/18/10 at 12:54am
Thread Starter 
Hey all,
I'm looking to build myself a CKKIII. I've been looking at parts that I need and trying to find them.

I've got a cart on Mouser, it has most of the parts I need, I think. Hoping someone has some spare time and wouldn't mind looking through what I've got to make sure it's what I need.
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=1de76193df
+ this toroidal transformer (TRANSFRMR TOROID 15V .466A WIRES - 62033)

A couple parts that I couldn't find or am unsure about are listed below.

Trimpot
2 3/8" multi-turn cermet trimpot 1KΩ

Resistors and Caps
41W 5% metal oxide resistor 0.47Ω
2metallized polyester capacitor 2.2µF 63V
2metallized polyester capacitor 0.47µF 63V
2metallized polyester capacitor 0.1µF 63V
4metallized polypropylene capacitor 0.047µF 100V
[I couldn't find metal oxide resistor, metallized polyester, or metallized polypropylene capacitors on Mouser. Do they go by any other name?]

Diodes
LED1Your choice
[Not sure what to get here. I'm guessing this is just an LED for the power light or something, but there are so many different numbers and properties that I don't know what kind I should pick. Does it even matter?]


Anything that isn't listed in the cart or above I already have.
Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 18
1/18/10 at 2:15am
Quote:
2 3/8" multi-turn cermet trimpot 1KΩ 652-3296W-1-102LF


Resistors and Caps
4 1W 5% metal oxide resistor 0.47Ω 281-0.47-RC
2 metallized polyester capacitor 2.2µF 63V 505-MKS22.2/63/5
2 metallized polyester capacitor 0.47µF 63V 505-MKS20.47/63/5
2 metallized polyester capacitor 0.1µF 63V 505-MKS2.1/63/5
4 metallized polypropylene capacitor 0.047µF 100V 505-MKP20.047/100/5
That's what I listed in my BOM. I haven't got a clue if they're ideal, but the specs on the parts were as close as I could get them.

Also, those Wima caps look fancy.
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post #3 of 18
1/18/10 at 2:41am
Thread Starter 
Awesome, I appreciate it, Ntropic. As far as I can tell, they should work.

I've updated the cart also.
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post #4 of 18
1/18/10 at 2:55am
What I'd like to know is what parts I might be better off getting through Digikey (apart from the transformer) than Mouser. Since I'm going to be paying shipping from Digikey, I might as well pick up something there. Maybe I'll just throw in some random stuff... like CR123s or something.

Why does casework cost so much? I think it'll be costing me at least a good quarter of my project. I think I'll use a cardboard box instead.

Why does a nice vandal resistant illuminated ring switch cost so much?

And most importantly, why can't I find a nice knob? Aluminium, fits the RK27, isn't excessively huge (1" diameter max), slot style indicator, with smooth sides (no knurls). Like this one! 450-6017

Yeah. I feel kind of silly spending all that time looking for a knob and then accidentally finding it. I hope that's the right one. I was tempted to nick some knobs from the lab equipment at department's lab... but I need to use that stuff.
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post #5 of 18
1/18/10 at 3:20am
Thread Starter 
I went with Mouser because it seems like more of the parts listed on the AMB website are easier to find on Mouser. I'm thinking to go into town and see if I can find any transformers locally at a competitive price.

I've got $80.53+shipping on Mouser and I have the amount required listed at the AMB website. I will add a few extras for all the parts, especially ones that are more prone to accidental damage.
I have $53.50 showing (including shipping) on the AMB store. Any parts that were required that were available at their store, I added there.
Then I have $25.30+shipping at digikey for the transformer and about $20(shipped) at Redco for other small parts like the 1/4" headphone jack and RCA inputs.

I'm estimating total cost to come out around $200-$220.

I'm strongly considering building a wooden box myself or something to save on cost as well. They do sell wooden boxes at crafts shops and such though I'm not sure if they are decent quality. Might be worth a look though.

I know what you mean about knobs though. I have a hard time finding nice knobs that are reasonably priced. I have some lying around, so I think I'm gonna wait and see if any fit and look nice before I go and order one.
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post #6 of 18
1/18/10 at 6:28am
Dear squid+,

as you consider building a wooden box yourself, you might be interested in seeing my custom-made wooden box for CKIII. See here:
Picasa Web Albums - matous.ringel - zesilovac

It is plywood and a filler strip glued together with epoxy. When drilling holes or cutting plywood one must be careful, since it tends to rive.
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post #7 of 18
1/18/10 at 2:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntropic View Post
And most importantly, why can't I find a nice knob?
Because you aren't looking in the right place...... eBay Store - PARTSPIPE: SWITCHES, LED's Downlight Bulbs Bezels, Plugs Connectors
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post #8 of 18
1/18/10 at 3:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntropic View Post
Why does casework cost so much? I think it'll be costing me at least a good quarter of my project. I think I'll use a cardboard box instead.

Why does a nice vandal resistant illuminated ring switch cost so much?

The switch is expensive because it is very nice looking and high quality. You can get a simple rocker switch or an iec with a switch built in for cheap.

Casework is expensive because metal is expensive, it is generally difficult to work with, and you are only buying one. Get used to it as long as you plan on being in DIY. Casework will take more than half of your time, and usually more than a quarter of your project cost, unless you find a way to use scrap or repurpose an old case. I am building the case for my beta from scratch, but it is still going to come out to something like $100-200 for metal, bolts, etc.
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post #9 of 18
1/18/10 at 3:42pm
You might try repurposing something as well. I've used cookie tins. Linuxworks has used old cases from other electronics. You can just replace a face plate or add a wooden or plastic plate and voila!
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post #10 of 18
3/13/10 at 3:47am
Great I'm going to hijack this thread as I'm preparing to be building mine! (have a kit on the way from Jeff at Glass Jar).

Have a few questions I hope to get some answers on,

Firstly what is the bevel size on the Hammond 1455Q2202 case? I'm getting custom front and back panels ordered from FPE so I need to know the bevel size.

What IEC would be recommended that has a built in power switch?

Also would it be recommended to wire a voltage selector inside, or should I just not bother and rewire the unit if I need to use it in another country?

Thanks!
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post #11 of 18
3/14/10 at 11:53pm
For IEC with Switch modules, you could use this:
BZV01/Z0000/10 Bulgin Power Entry Modules
or this:
BZV01/Z0000/01 Bulgin Power Entry Modules

As far as doing a voltage selector, you could just do it with a 3 terminal screw terminal block, and wire it accordingly. Cheap and easy.

I'm not sure what you mean by bevel size, but if you mean the endplate size, then the 1455Q2201 has a metal end plate that is 50.90 MM (h) by 124.80 MM (w) . The 2201 and 2202 are physically the same dimensions, but one has a metal end plate with a plastic bezel and the other has a plastic endplate with integrated bezel (the 2202).
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post #12 of 18
3/15/10 at 12:18am
The thing with casing: don't make it a last priority. When your amp is done, the case and the work you put into it will be what you see every day. I can say that the cases I spent more time on are the ones that I am most happy to show off. It's worth it!
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post #13 of 18
3/15/10 at 7:24pm
But since the cases are so expensive, would it be worthwhile to build a (properly-grounded) cardboard one and get good sound now, or hold the project off until I can raise a spare $50 for the case.

I mean I'm not even allowed power tools, how else can I case it?

Earthpeople (Squid+ ?) Thanks for posting your 'cart' I didn't know that was possible! I was putting together an all-digikey order, but now I can cross-reference it to your mouser prices/order very easily. I'll probably use part of it when I put my order in this summer. (or maybe before)

Maybe I'll get my hands on some scrap aluminum and L-brackets.
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post #14 of 18
3/15/10 at 9:54pm
Sometimes you have to think "outside the box"

IKEA | Boxes & baskets | Paper & media boxes | EMU | Box with lid, set of 2

IKEA | Boxes & baskets | Paper & media boxes | KASSETT | CD box with lid

How about this with a chunk of glass or plexy for the top?

IKEA | Bathroom organizers | Around the sink | MOLGER | Box
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post #15 of 18
3/16/10 at 2:35am
If you'd like the panel designs I used on mine (Front Panel Express), let me know (PM me, they don't fit perfectly around the edge, but they are pretty close).

You might considering your output transistors as well. The Toshiba 2SC2238/2SA968 from MCM rock, albeit they're a bit pricey (but, granted, if any, this is the one place to splurge on parts).

Regarding the other parts, AMB does recommend parts with direct part numbers on Mouser and Digikey in the descriptions for each item. The parts all go by the names listed. If you go to the "Products" tab, under "Passive Components" you can hit "Capacitors" and "Resistors" and it'll contain the metal film resistors, polyprops, and other categories as appropriate.

And the LED is just a power light. Kind of handy to have. Keep in mind that you'll need to recalculate the value for R40 (Ti gives the formula on the parts list page, not 100% necessary but valuable at least).
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