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Beta22 Designing Idea - Need your opinion.

post #1 of 70
Thread Starter 
So, still looking for the best chassis design which I can offer for Beta22.

The front is glossy. Using thick glass over glossy finished black metal. The rest of the chassis is in anodized brushed black aluminum [also thick - about 4mm]. The text is under the glass and in glossy gold.

And if you will be able to answer this it will be great also [Looking for jack socket which will look the closest as possible to one I illustrated]:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/bes...socket-466327/

Here is the design made in photoshop:


Thanks in advance.
post #2 of 70
Looks beautiful.

Don't know what to say beyond that. I like the idea of a pane of glass in front of the front panel. It'd be a finger print magnet but it would look great.

I'd prefer silver finishes to gold but that's a personal preference.
post #3 of 70
Are you going to have a separate chassis for the PSU? If not where is the power button?

I am assuming this is a single ended B22?
post #4 of 70
Thread Starter 
The PSU [O22] will be in seperate chassis, and yes, it is single ended/unbalanced B22.
This B22 uses active ground channel.


Also noticed that I didn't wrote 'Volume' and 'Phones'. Should I write it?
post #5 of 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by pila405 View Post
The PSU [O22] will be in seperate chassis, and yes, it is single ended/unbalanced B22.
This B22 uses active ground channel.


Also noticed that I didn't wrote 'Volume' and 'Phones'. Should I write it?
I certainly would not write Phones, and probably not Volume since you do not have any other option as to what the BIG knob might be for.

If you had multiple outputs, and multiple knobs I would consider labeling them but since you do not it is pretty obvious.
post #6 of 70
You might want to consider putting the "B22 ..." under the Volume Knob to balance things out a bit. See how that looks.

Oh and maybe reduce the number of fonts you have. Currently you have 3 different fonts, I understand using a different font for maybe B22, but the other text I think should use the same font.
post #7 of 70
how are you going to attach the glass to the front? it looks great and i might do that for mine as well.
post #8 of 70
Thread Starter 
I will try your suggestions, thank you.

And all the text is in the same font.

@ivanrocks321 - I have no idea how I will do it atm. But I am sure it is possible, I guess that any glazier will be able to attach it. [I will order the chassis without the glass...]

Here it is:

"B22..." on the bottom:


With the text [I also think it will be better without]:
post #9 of 70
Actually how is any of it going to be attached? I see no provisions for attaching either the glass or the metal front plate to the chassis.
post #10 of 70
Also you are going to want to make sure that glass is rounded on the edges so that you do not slice yourself every time you touch it. I am not sure but usually that process ends up frosting the edge of the glass. Something to keep in mind.
post #11 of 70
Looks nice.
Striking similarity to the Electrocompaniet design I must say...

post #12 of 70
I like the one with B22 on the bottom. I know it was my suggestion, however it actually looks better seeing than I thought it would.
post #13 of 70
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by krmathis View Post
Looks nice.
Striking similarity to the Electrocompaniet design I must say...

http://www.homecinemaworld.com/pictu...niet_aw250.jpg
I was indeed inspired by their desings .

ATM, I don't really have any idea how to do it, but it doesn't seem to be so hard. There are many ways to do it.
post #14 of 70
Since my own ß22 is similar, I can perhaps be of assistance.

First, rather than using glass, considering giving your front panel a poor man’s auto paint job – thorough cleaning, several layers of primer, several layers of flat black (sanded flat after drying) and then many, many layers of high quality clearcoat (sanded up to 2000 grit or higher with rubbing compound). You can get gorgeous finishes using spray paint and elbow grease, and it will avoid the daunting mechanical task of securing the glass panel to the amp in both a functional and attractive manner.

It looks like part of your design is not to have visible screws on the front panel (I nearly always incorporate this into my designs) which, while looking attractive, does make the mechanical aspect more difficult. What I did was to clamp the front panel to the frame exactly where I wanted it, and then drilled 4 guide holes that go through the front frame and end up as blind holes in the back of the front panel (this was to ensure that all 4 holes lined up). Then I un-clamped the front panel and enlarged the guide holes in the frame for 8-32 clearance. Next, I carefully enlarged the blind holes to the 8-32 tap size, and tapped the holes. Be very careful at this stage – don’t accidentally convert your blind holes to through holes and use plenty of oil when making the taps. Now you can sturdily fasten the front panel to the frame without any visible screws. You do have to take care in your internal layout so that you can fit a screwdriver into the appropriate places to fasten/unfasten the front plate, but it looks like your chassis is roomy.

Also, out of curiosity, do you know of an organization that engraves gold lettering? I’d looked in the past but never found anywhere ‘hobbyist-friendly’ that did.
post #15 of 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by krmathis View Post
Looks nice.
Striking similarity to the Electrocompaniet design I must say...

Not only that, the knob looks strikingly similar to my knob.
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