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What type of solder should I use?

post #1 of 38
1/11/10 at 9:17pm
Thread Starter 
Hello everyone, I was wondering if I should be using a special kind of solder for my DIY cables. I am currently using radio-shack's rosin core solder for pc work. Will this do or should I get myself something with a bit of silver?
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post #2 of 38
1/11/10 at 9:25pm
I got rat shack silver solder and I like it better than the spool of rosin core that I had before.
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post #3 of 38
1/11/10 at 9:44pm
A lot of the people around the DIY parts recommend Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder, you can get it cheap off eBay and I really enjoyed using it.
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post #4 of 38
1/11/10 at 9:57pm
Wow, didn't know that you could score 50ft for 7 bucks. I will never buy RadioShat again.
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post #5 of 38
1/11/10 at 10:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LingLing1337 View Post
Wow, didn't know that you could score 50ft for 7 bucks. I will never buy RadioShat again.
Yeah, tis a sweat deal.
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post #6 of 38
1/11/10 at 10:34pm
I've always had good luck with Radio Shack 60/40, though I usually use Kester 60/40. Lead flows well and makes a wonderful physical connection.
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post #7 of 38
1/11/10 at 10:57pm
i have some radio shack solder from the 80s that's just as good as cardas flows just as well at the same temp also i never use it but it worked when i just started out
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post #8 of 38
1/12/10 at 10:12am
I second (third?) the cardas quad eutectic. It is the only solder I have used and I have found it to be exceedingly easy to use as a beginner. Plus 50ft for $7 deal on ebay of it will last for 100's of cables if not more.
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post #9 of 38
1/12/10 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
I second (third?) the cardas quad eutectic. It is the only solder I have used and I have found it to be exceedingly easy to use as a beginner.
Eh, what? Please explain what could possibly be difficult about bog-standard 60/40 or 63/37 solder, I'd love to hear it.
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post #10 of 38
1/12/10 at 12:20pm
I think the problem most people have when starting out is they buy a temp controlled station and have nfi what to set it to.
For anyone that thinks that they are in this boat and can't figure out why the solder won't flow anywhere, crank it to somewhere between 370-400c for most standard passive components.
Include a flux pen in the operation and you'll be amazed at how easy it is to get a good joint.
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post #11 of 38
1/12/10 at 12:53pm
Will this CARDAS Silver solder be good for the Beta22 project? The high temp won't destroy anything on the board?

Will silver be the best for it?
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post #12 of 38
1/12/10 at 12:58pm
Just use plain old 60/40 and it'll be the best it can be =)
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post #13 of 38
1/12/10 at 1:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefy View Post
Eh, what? Please explain what could possibly be difficult about bog-standard 60/40 or 63/37 solder, I'd love to hear it.

???? Not sure if your post meant to have as much attitude as I perceived, but that is a flaw of online communication. I simply stated that I was a beginner and found it easy to use. That doesn't have to imply it is easier than something else,or even better than something else. But if you do want the tiny bit more that I can add here it is this: The only experience I have with alternate solders is from the desoldering of things that were done with what I would assume was normal solder (rewiring headphones and jacks). I find the near instant hardening (and the wonderful flow) of the eutectic to be quite nice and and a smidge easier to work with than solder that takes a second (less likely to move a wire in that time). I thought that it was this uniform and quick hardening that was one of the benefits of a eutectic solder. I know there are a lot of standard solder loyalists, which is why I specifically state (twice now) that I don't have any real experience with it, but simply like the eutectic, and as someone without any experience, I found it wonderfully easy to work with. You have way more experience building things, and I respect that, but your opinion and experience doesn't negate or alter mine.
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post #14 of 38
1/12/10 at 1:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nattonrice View Post
I think the problem most people have when starting out is they buy a temp controlled station and have nfi what to set it to.
For anyone that thinks that they are in this boat and can't figure out why the solder won't flow anywhere, crank it to somewhere between 370-400c for most standard passive components.
Include a flux pen in the operation and you'll be amazed at how easy it is to get a good joint.
Yeah, each project I do my soldering temperature seems to increase, and I get joints done cleaner...... but more importantly, faster. 350-375C for most stuff, 400C for anything on the ground plane.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
???? Not sure if your post meant to have as much attitude as I perceived, but that is a flaw of online communication. I simply stated that I was a beginner and found it easy to use. That doesn't have to imply it is easier than something else,or even better than something else.
No flaw, I did mean the attitude completely. I do not with to argue from a position of authority or experience, but I am getting particularly annoyed at the 'other' sub-forums MOAR SOLDERZ attitude prevailing in what is usually the common sense of the DIY forum.
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post #15 of 38
1/12/10 at 1:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nattonrice View Post
Just use plain old 60/40 and it'll be the best it can be =)
What is this "plain old 60/40"?

Will silver be problematic?

Will this one be good enough:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SOLDER-WIRE-60-4...#ht_607wt_1165
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