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Is this soldering iron the one I need? - Page 2

post #16 of 21
wow, now thats what I called a detailed answer,

so basically OP, hes saying that you want an iron that also has good 'thermal recovery'. was actually surprised to not see this term mentioned with such a wonderfully detailed response
post #17 of 21
this one looks way better for the same $
post #18 of 21
so youve used this, or it just 'looks better'? there are many irons out there that promise the earth, with hot air rework, tweezers and a coffee cup heater all combined, but IMO a simple quality iron is always superior. especially when just starting out.

hmm no comment cant stand that brand, got a brand new broken one downstairs well actually I got a new element on the way, but at the moment working with only half a heater in one half of tweezers and this happened within minutes of owning it. could have been damaged in transit I guess, but for the 30 dollars you save I really dont think it compares to the hakko its blatently copied from.
post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
Wow, thanks for all of the detailed responses. I have been looking at the Hakko's and I think I am going to get a cheap rat shack one just for this cable and get either this one or this one later on down the road. I would get one of those now but I just spent about $60 on parts and wire I will have a wait a short while.

And I have a dumb question. Is there like a basic electronics book JUST FOR AUDIO. Like amps and what not? Thanks.
post #20 of 21
The ratshack iron won't serve you well. I do have one, and I'm afraid even the 40W one will run out of power on a connector. It might do 3 wires just fine, and then run out of juice soldering to the barrel. They're really bad. I don't know any others, but if I had to buy something like this, I'd try to find that hakko red and two tips--one wide, one fine--for about $20. (Well, I'm lying because I'd buy the 455, but this one is probably better suited, especially factoring in the budget.) You can get by for a bit rigging something to put it down on and use a damp sponge to clean it. The cheap Ratshack solder is okay, though. In fact, it might be easier to use than kester for cables because it had a lot of resin, but that's a very fine distinction and you can buy that kind of kester, too.
post #21 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post
wow, now thats what I called a detailed answer,

so basically OP, hes saying that you want an iron that also has good 'thermal recovery'. was actually surprised to not see this term mentioned with such a wonderfully detailed response
Good words if you know what they mean. Maybe I'll put in some more effort and post it in my collection thread along with some references.
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