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Chameleon DAC listening and modifications - Page 47

post #691 of 1144
I will call it the WD40 mod, cos this is 16 cylinder power house after all, and it will go a even faster and smoother after a quick, strategic, spray of WD40 under that bonnet to free up those decoupling caps.
post #692 of 1144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
I will call it the WD40 mod, cos this is 16 cylinder power house after all, and it will go a even faster and smoother after a quick, strategic, spray of WD40 under that bonnet to free up those decoupling caps.
I had a few hours of free time yesterday and counted 17 MKP1837's in my drawer.. Time to do Wood's mod.
Luckily I have a tweezer soldering iron so removing the SMD caps was literly a 30 second job. I had to remove 3 rows of black gates in order to be able to do the job. Then put in al caps one by one. I personally think it wasn't a difficult job to do.

The sound changed exactly as Wood described: Fast, Faster, fastest! Speed, An exploding Transient bomb! That what the Chameleon (and Valab) was a bit lacking suddenly is there.

It sounded a bit harsch at first but those 1837's break in quite fast (+/- 40 to 50 hours) and when I listened again 8 hours later the sound was already much more neutralized.

If you like a smooth, warm, chocolate sound keep your Chameleon as is. If you like speed and detail (like me) hop in those 0,01uF Vishay's! Total costs: € 8,-
post #693 of 1144
I am about to order a Chameleon, as they are at last on sale again, but use my DC-30W from the Valab DAC. Is anyone using this older PSU still, as Michael says it is designed for 8 chips, not 16. Has anyone had insurmountable problems re-using it? I can't afford to buy another at the moment, but want to get on with modding .
post #694 of 1144
Quote:
Originally Posted by awkwardbydesign View Post
I am about to order a Chameleon, as they are at last on sale again, but use my DC-30W from the Valab DAC. Is anyone using this older PSU still, as Michael says it is designed for 8 chips, not 16. Has anyone had insurmountable problems re-using it? I can't afford to buy another at the moment, but want to get on with modding .
Just wait for a short while, if you have the patience. The updated version of the Chameleon, with of lot of our suggestions added, will be available soon. This also contains an updated DC-30W.

As far as I know the design of the older version of the DC-30W has been changed a bit by Teradak in order to work fine with the Chameleon.
post #695 of 1144
The problem is cost. I can't afford another DC-30W. It's a Chameleon on it's own or nothing!
post #696 of 1144
I use the dc30 I got for the valab. works great. You can also do the yellow wire mod with it.
post #697 of 1144

wd40

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodes54 View Post

It sounded a bit harsch at first but those 1837's break in quite fast (+/- 40 to 50 hours) and when I listened again 8 hours later the sound was already much more neutralized.

If you like a smooth, warm, chocolate sound keep your Chameleon as is. If you like speed and detail (like me) hop in those 0,01uF Vishay's! Total costs: € 8,-
Yes this WD40 shot mod does indeed change the dac into a different beasty, less Chameleon, more T-rex.

Ive' had 500hrs on the 1837's now and they do continue to improve. I tried wimas first and they presented a warmer but more hifi sound then the original caps. So type of replacement cap is very important here.

With the 1837's you get other changes as well as speed, acoustic space becomes more real, and slower, more delicate music ,is more expressive/involving, my impression is of more nos sound, and yet more accuracy/realism. So, it seems, you can have your cake and eat it, after all.

Gotta love those Bongos now.
post #698 of 1144
New Chameleon V4.5 - Windows Live

Here we go again!!!

I suspect that mystery relay is for surge protection from the power supply.
post #699 of 1144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
I use the dc30 I got for the valab. works great. You can also do the yellow wire mod with it.
Thanks, that reassures me.
post #700 of 1144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
Yes this WD40 shot mod does indeed change the dac into a different beasty, less Chameleon, more T-rex.

Ive' had 500hrs on the 1837's now and they do continue to improve. I tried wimas first and they presented a warmer but more hifi sound then the original caps. So type of replacement cap is very important here.

With the 1837's you get other changes as well as speed, acoustic space becomes more real, and slower, more delicate music ,is more expressive/involving, my impression is of more nos sound, and yet more accuracy/realism. So, it seems, you can have your cake and eat it, after all.
I'm very curious what will happen in a few hundred hours. So far I'm quite happy with the sound. Haven't had the time yet to carefully listen to it but I might be able to do that within' a few hours.

Here are some pics of my mod:
post #701 of 1144
Nice neat job there, 'rhodes54' standard of course.

The sound does get even better, guess its because they are film caps and need to burn in like any other. I like these vishay a lot, but because they have had such a profound effect on the sq in this location I'm tempted to experiment with other types ,like we have done with the coupling caps. The clue was the huge difference between the wima and the vishay.
post #702 of 1144
Thread Starter 

transformer coupled

far far more relaxed with the caps out of the way.

Bill forwarded me a link that showed how Dave Slagle was able tom implement a version of output coupling and I used that.

It ties a 180ohm resistor to ground from both legs of the primary. Nada on the secondary.
Four resistor in play. Two on the left, two on the right. I asked bill to resend that link to me and when he does I will copy and paste out the version I used.

There is absolutely no hint of any edge. Smooth. I used cheap 2W resistors and I am sure replacing them with TX nudes will open it out a lot more.

Big effin win!
post #703 of 1144
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodes54 View Post
Just wait for a short while, if you have the patience. The updated version of the Chameleon, with of lot of our suggestions added, will be available soon. This also contains an updated DC-30W.

As far as I know the design of the older version of the DC-30W has been changed a bit by Teradak in order to work fine with the Chameleon.
TeraDak Audio Electric Company

Is that news story what you're talking about? I want to order the new version Chameleon as well but I want to make sure I actually get it
post #704 of 1144
Thread Starter 

Here it is

The output wiring for the CineMag 1:1 600ohm transformers.

Thanks goes to Dave Slagle.



You do not need to take the leg of the neg to ground. It reaches ground through the 180R. I should amend my drawing and remove that dangling wire.
post #705 of 1144
Thread Starter 

couldn't wait

I removed the one set of crap ass resistor for the positives and replaced with my 175R Texas nudes and there you go. Nice and open. Not sure if I really need to replace the - resistors to ground so fast. Yes, I have 180 on the neg and 175 on the POS but I laid a little heat on the 180s to get them to drift. And, no, I did not check with a meter.

The cheap resistors were soft and dull. The Texas just opens it all up. Very colorful, do not read colored, and relaxed. And now that I see Bill's comment about the "tent" makes sense. Thanks for the nudge, Bill.

I am almost tempted to put the screws back in.

My board looks hacked to hell. And it is.

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