or Connect
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Dedicated Source Components › Chameleon DAC listening and modifications
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Chameleon DAC listening and modifications - Page 37

post #541 of 1144
it's just a giant radiator no matter how you slice it up. You'd need active cooling for an "Air draw". I was looking more at surface area. The only real negative i see is detaching the front and rear plate from the main chassis effectively makes your heatsink smaller.
post #542 of 1144
Thread Starter 

nope

As heat rises out of the six front holes it pulls cool air into the hole in the back. That cool air is drawn forward and up and out. Which is a draw a draft a flow a breeze.

It cools the DACs. It cools the chassis. If it starts to heat up it cools it down again. It is self regulated organic situation.

I did the same thing with the VALAB only a little different. There ht eholes are centered over the heatsink attached onto the DACs. The rear hole is on the bottom of the chassis with the air feeding up thru the hoe in the back of the PCB.

post #543 of 1144

Context

Quote:
Originally Posted by driguy View Post
I guess the breaking point for me is seeing a posting with a fan installed. Again, here in CrazyTown these postings are "normal" but please remember that real normal folks may be interested in the basic units and that all the hard work the guys at Valab have put in could go up in smoke. Now, I have no economic ties to Valab and I do not know them personally but I do like to see new businesses succeed especially when they make a product I admire.
Yes indeed this is a great dac with no inherent problems, and nobody means to imply that there are any. But this is a modding thread, and my DC30 has been modded. Indeed near the begining of the tread Teradak advised against the yellow wire mod. That is why we are drilling holes, putting it upside down and even, CrazyTown style, adding fans, as in my case, and in your case Tony, putting the whole dac and psu into its own shiny new box. I don't want to see anybody here discouraged from experimenting because it may damage the products reputation, it won't. We Mod, not because there is something 'wrong' with the original, we just want to fine tune. In fact Bills discovery has improved the dac and it seems Teradak has taken that mod on board now, which is good news for anybody who buys one now, as they won't need to do this specific mod.

As far as I know, nobodys 'moded' DC30 has broken down yet, and thats how I would it to stay.

Mod on!
post #544 of 1144

Chimney

Quote:
Originally Posted by PatOMalley View Post
As heat rises out of the six front holes it pulls cool air into the hole in the back. That cool air is drawn forward and up and out. Which is a draw a draft a flow a breeze.

It cools the DACs. It cools the chassis. If it starts to heat up it cools it down again. It is self regulated organic situation.

I did the same thing with the VALAB only a little different. There ht eholes are centered over the heatsink attached onto the DACs. The rear hole is on the bottom of the chassis with the air feeding up thru the hoe in the back of the PCB.

Were talking chimneys here, I see this one comes with its own soot.
post #545 of 1144
Thread Starter 

two tone

Thought I would hot rod the thing.
spoiler heat sink. black hood and grill /w silver trim.
Big tires.

It is the Toyota Celica of DACs.
So that makes the Chameleon the Supra?
post #546 of 1144
Nice to see the modded Valab that started it all!
post #547 of 1144

Hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by PatOMalley View Post
Thought I would hot rod the thing.
spoiler heat sink. black hood and grill /w silver trim.
Big tires.

It is the Toyota Celica of DACs.
So that makes the Chameleon the Supra?
Could be, could be.

But.... I thought we were supposed to mod the wheels off this thing?
LL
post #548 of 1144
Thread Starter 

the image

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
Could be, could be.

But.... I thought we were supposed to mod the wheels off this thing?
perfect
post #549 of 1144
neither 130 nor 120 does any harm, that is if that is the chip temp....
Think that the housing is just fine as it is , unless you add forced air flow anything convection based will have a minor impact on the temp....

I'm with Tony on this one.
post #550 of 1144
someone has way to much free time. with regard to the attached thumbnail


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
Could be, could be.

But.... I thought we were supposed to mod the wheels off this thing?
post #551 of 1144

15c drop not minor

Quote:
Originally Posted by marcelnl View Post
unless you add forced air flow anything convection based will have a minor impact on the temp....

I'm with Tony on this one.
My final word on this, from fear of pedantry, after combining Pat and Mikes ideas on this, an upside down DC30, with holes in the bottom (ex top) and only one hole in the top between the regs, reduced the temp from 55c to 40c. (after adding the chimney) For fun I blew smoke in and watched it fountain out of the top hole, yes its a chimney. No need for the fan now.

And just to make it clear to you lurking potential consumers, this is not the current production DC30 which would not need modding. So what are you waiting for, buy one now.
post #552 of 1144
Thread Starter 

which only goes to show

that theory pales when practical application is applied.
Which is what this thread is all about: practical modifications that ave an impact.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
My final word on this, from fear of pedantry, after combining Pat and Mikes ideas on this, an upside down DC30, with holes in the bottom (ex top) and only one hole in the top between the regs, reduced the temp from 55c to 40c. (after adding the chimney) For fun I blew smoke in and watched it fountain out of the top hole, yes its a chimney. No need for the fan now.

And just to make it clear to you lurking potential consumers, this is not the current production DC30 which would not need modding. So what are you waiting for, buy one now.
post #553 of 1144
Mike, I pushed my voltage up to 7.85v again, I think you might be on to something about a touch of clipping or something at the lower voltages. I was getting a very light tzzz at the leading edges of notes, a sort of break up like split ends.

That seems to have gone now with 7.85v. It really wasn't a problem but you know how it is when your into your vibe, you don't need to be pulled out of that space by such observations, no matter how minor. Could be 175r is optimum at 7.85, and a little to high value at lower voltages.
post #554 of 1144
7.85 will get you most of the way there, but im afraid it's still not enough. You may never know it in music but if you use test tones it's obvious. Im now running mine at 8.2 volts actually. I'd rather run lower, but with 175r it's not gonna happen. Oddly enough, in stock configuration this one was set to run at 8.21 volts from Teradak, even with the 160r resisters it came stock with, and the blue wire.
post #555 of 1144
Thread Starter 

power in / noise

I ran solid core copper from input direct to the DAC board where the BG cap connects. After putting it back together I got a higher level of noise. Had a look and the star point ground was a mess. I cleaned it up and it now it is quieter. That start ground looks to be a good entry point for noise unless you get a good mechanical connection for all wires.

Not sure what the impact of the solid core direct to the board is. There is less noise, but that is from cleaning up the ground.

The picture below is after the solid core is in place but before I cleaned up the star ground southeast of the BG cap on the DAC board.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Dedicated Source Components
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Dedicated Source Components › Chameleon DAC listening and modifications