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Chameleon DAC listening and modifications - Page 76

post #1126 of 1134

Hi , I'm a DIY beginner and I have a question. I order Elna Silmic II RFS 16V 47uF caps to use at each DAC chip. On your thread you said "Add to or replace the 10uF caps...". Is it important to remove the existant 10uF caps or I can just Add to my new Elna Silmic II RFS 16V 47uF ?

Thanks.

Eric T.

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post #1127 of 1134

Dear  rhodes54,

 

I am trying to get a WM8805 in hardware mode providing 16 bit I2S to drive a TDA1541.

Looking at the MOD you posted long ago (2009) I was surprised by the pin 5 of the WM8805 connected directly to GND and the pin 8 to half the VDD (3.3 V I assume), while these pins become outputs after a reset.

My question is whether you could provide me with the schematic of the Chameleon DAC (which works in hardware mode).

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Hugo

post #1128 of 1134

I heard a lot about NOS DACs on this forum. My first venture was a Mini Muse which I modified and loved the sound. So I thought I would go the next step and get the Teradak Chameleon. It has the Phillips TDA1543 x 16 chips.
I got it and listened intently. The sound had better detail and separation, but it lacked some fullness that I was used to in my Mini Muse and even in my stock transport (Yamaha CD-S700).
I toyed with the idea of just selling the unit. Reading this thread gave me some excellent ways to modify this unit. It mostly involved caps around each chip. The Chameleon is made the way it is just for modders. I used Elna Silmic II 47uf16v caps and some Vishay/Roederstein MKP1837 .1uf for bypass just as suggested here. The work was not easy given the tiny area on the circuit board I had to work with. Removing the tiny stock caps is a job in itself. This newer version has no holes in the board to put a wire through, just have to solder directly to the top of the board. I posted some pictures. It may not be pretty but gets the job done.
The sound has opened up magnificently. I am hearing stuff in songs I really have not heard before. Bottom line is that I wound not recommend getting a Chameleon unless you intend to modify it. It is not fully broken in yet and I expect the sound to get even better.




Here is a picture of the layout before I messed with it.



My next mod may involve replacing the large white output caps. Any suggestions appreciated.

post #1129 of 1134

I've got a very worthwhile improvement from even a single TDA1543 from adding more caps to the supply rails. I'd suggest going overboard with caps - as many as you can fit in. My latest DAC (ground up build, not modified) has around 1 farad of capacitance - from over 300 3,300uF caps. Although this is using TDA1387s the improvements from reducing the supply impedance with caps are fairly consistent between DAC chips.

post #1130 of 1134
Just found this DAC could be connected to Raspberry Pi via I2S for even better SQ than USB/Coaxial/Toslink inputs

http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=180&t=3856833

Pin5-3:BCK
Pin5-4:LRCK
Pin5-6:DATA
Pin5-7:GND

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post #1131 of 1134

Hello Rhodes 54,

 

You posted for some time ago your volume control upgrade with the TX2575 resistors.

I just now made an upgrade in my IV converter of the Tentlabs CD player. Replaced 2 Allen Bradley resistors for the TX2575 ones.

WOW what an unbelievable improvement. The sound is absolutely clear now. Not smearing anymore. So much more open and halo's around instruments and voices are gone.

 

I also have a Volume control from Tentlabs. Controlling the volume to the N-core  NC400 modules. Without pre-amp.

 

My question is, can you send me your ordering list of the TX2575 resistors that you ordered at Texas Components, so that I use the correct values? I know I can see read it on the resistors itself, but I can see that you used in some places 2 or 3 TX2575 together, is this to increase the Watt value?

 

Wolter

post #1132 of 1134

Hello Rhodes 54,

 

You posted for some time ago your volume control upgrade with the TX2575 resistors.

I just now made an upgrade in my IV converter of the Tentlabs CD player. Replaced 2 Allen Bradley resistors for the TX2575 ones.

WOW what an unbelievable improvement. The sound is absolutely clear now. Not smearing anymore. So much more open and halo's around instruments and voices are gone.

 

I also have a Volume control from Tentlabs. Controlling the volume to the N-core  NC400 modules. Without pre-amp.

 

My question is, can you send me your ordering list of the TX2575 resistors that you ordered at Texas Components, so that I use the correct values? I know I can see read it on the resistors itself, but I can see that you used in some places 2 or 3 TX2575 together, is this to increase the Watt value?

 

Wolter

post #1133 of 1134

I am a new guy here. Just received my Chamelion and am using it with an Audio Note CDT II transport. Sounds really great. Qustion for USB Using Windows 8 and JRiver 18 as a source. I assume I need drivers. On the Teredak websight under downloads there are 3 drivers listed. Do you know what I need?

Alan

post #1134 of 1134

Got a reply from Michael about drivers. Even though they do not have Windows 8 he  feels I do not need drivers. Went back and tried it again with Jriver and change Asio to direct and it works up to 24/96. Still breaking it in.

Alan

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