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iBasso fi.Quest Official Thread - Page 7

post #91 of 668
Sorry for your confusing, I meant the R20 problem.

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post #92 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryuzoh View Post
Sorry for your confusing, I meant the R20 problem.
I am confused. I am not sure about this implementation. :^)

I have left my fi.Q as stock with opamps as shipped, just letting it settle in. The sound has continued mature. It is extremely fast, i.e., no smearing from upper bass to lower mids with a beautiful transient response. I am listening with the HF2 Grados right now. They are exceptionally well controlled with this amp. I look forward to trying the opa627 or opa637 but in the other fi.Q.

The combination of the MB-1 optical in dual dac, iRiver H140 and lossless with the fi.Q is a powerful combination.
post #93 of 668
I'm still a little confused myself.....I'm not sure that R20 is a ''Problem'' as such, I just commented that I get hiss with 4 channel set up (hiss goes when using 3 channels). Ryuzoh said by removing R20 and just jumping it would sort out the hiss. I've had a look and think I'll leave it as long as Ryuzoh can just confirm that there is no underlying issue regarding this.

I have decided to use the Fi-Q as my home amp replacing the PSU1 Solo, this will be going on e-bay in the new year once I get the Fi-Q back from Maxxing out...... This certainly is some amp.
post #94 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
I have left my fi.Q as stock with opamps as shipped, just letting it settle in. The sound has continued mature. It is extremely fast, i.e., no smearing from upper bass to lower mids with a beautiful transient response. I am listening with the HF2 Grados right now. They are exceptionally well controlled with this amp. I look forward to trying the opa627 or opa637 but in the other fi.Q.

The combination of the MB-1 optical in dual dac, iRiver H140 and lossless with the fi.Q is a powerful combination.
Thank you and your 003 had been shipped yesterday (R20 replaced).
I'll let you know tracking No.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpudHarris View Post
I'm still a little confused myself.....I'm not sure that R20 is a ''Problem'' as such, I just commented that I get hiss with 4 channel set up (hiss goes when using 3 channels). Ryuzoh said by removing R20 and just jumping it would sort out the hiss. I've had a look and think I'll leave it as long as Ryuzoh can just confirm that there is no underlying issue regarding this.

I have decided to use the Fi-Q as my home amp replacing the PSU1 Solo, this will be going on e-bay in the new year once I get the Fi-Q back from Maxxing out...... This certainly is some amp.
First, thank you for your praising.
The hiss is also reported in Japan, what is caused by LT1210 and I'm now struggling to solve the issue.
I'll email you soon to max yours out.
post #95 of 668
Ok, so I looked again at the layout in the fi.Q I have here. There is a buffer 634 in the ground channel and the two 634 buffers have the switches in the off postion. The opamp is the AD712JN. Is this the stock setup? This would be in 4 channel then with the buffers in the non wide band mode.
post #96 of 668
That's the default set up Jon, exactly as mine was when it arrived.....

The only switch I've flicked is No 2 next to Ground channel (see Ryuzoh's recommendation on pg. 5)
post #97 of 668
Too many options. :^)

It is funny because on my preamp I built that used three tubes for channel then two and then finally I settled on one with an output transformer, I left two sockets. For these I can use high current draw heater tubes like the 55 or 27 or the lower draw, 76 all with a flick of a switch. I can also change the voltages on the tubes, according to the tube used. There is a nice combination of quality components. My external power supply is a dual regulated mono power supply source that used two 6X4 tubes per supply for the initial rectification with a final output of 480 volts that is pretty much ripple free but I still use 4 inductors in the preamp. There is more but maybe I am a tube guy more than solid state.

The fi.Q options are fun though and offer challenges and rewards.
post #98 of 668
wow this amp gets HOT!! when charging. I just put it on 'charge and isolated' before going to bed and its now 10:30 am and it was still piping hot shouldnt this have become fully charged and cooled down/stopped charging by now? its been on charge for about 9hrs and the battery warning light wasnt on when I plugged it in last night. how long does it take to charge from empty Ryuzoh?
post #99 of 668
It does get warm but mine hasn't gotten hot. It takes a while to charge, I haven't timed mine or the prototypes, I guess I should have but I never thought of it. I am still not sure what charge and loading means.

I am listening to some Chet Baker Jazz, My Favorite Sons, disc 1 and this amp does piano and horn right. Very fluid and the dynamics allows an unrestrained ease to the music. The separation of this recording, which was live, is very realistic.
post #100 of 668
ok, well maybe it just hadnt finished charging then and that would sort of explain it. maybe hot was the wrong word as I could still comfortable hiold the amp, but very very warm and much warmer than anything else I own including lisa which only barely gets warm. I would have thought 8-9hrs would fully charge from a battery that wasnt even low though.....

havent listened to the amp yet today, will do after lunch and this time I will try out some of my fullsize cans
post #101 of 668
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post #102 of 668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post
wow this amp gets HOT!! when charging. I just put it on 'charge and isolated' before going to bed and its now 10:30 am and it was still piping hot shouldnt this have become fully charged and cooled down/stopped charging by now? its been on charge for about 9hrs and the battery warning light wasnt on when I plugged it in last night. how long does it take to charge from empty Ryuzoh?
Told you it get hot... I can use it as my cup warmer in the office btw, the orange led on mine doesn't turn off after 12h
post #103 of 668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Too many options. :^)

It is funny because on my preamp I built that used three tubes for channel then two and then finally I settled on one with an output transformer, I left two sockets. For these I can use high current draw heater tubes like the 55 or 27 or the lower draw, 76 all with a flick of a switch. I can also change the voltages on the tubes, according to the tube used. There is a nice combination of quality components. My external power supply is a dual regulated mono power supply source that used two 6X4 tubes per supply for the initial rectification with a final output of 480 volts that is pretty much ripple free but I still use 4 inductors in the preamp. There is more but maybe I am a tube guy more than solid state.

The fi.Q options are fun though and offer challenges and rewards.
Agree... too lost on where to start. I'm focusing on opamp 1st
post #104 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by theory_87 View Post
Told you it get hot... I can use it as my cup warmer in the office btw, the orange led on mine doesn't turn off after 12h
you did indeed. I was thinking of frying my breakfast on it this morning.
post #105 of 668
This amp temp is has not been my experience and I have charged it a couple of times not bothering about the battery memory since these batteries are not supposed to have that issue.
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