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iBasso fi.Quest Official Thread - Page 10

post #136 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by slwiser View Post
Maybe I don't know what I am talking about but for myself my iBasso seems to have no issues with the power supply.
Oops, my quotation mistake...

Quote:
Originally Posted by slwiser View Post
This amp temp is has not been my experience and I have charged it a couple of times not bothering about the battery memory since these batteries are not supposed to have that issue.
I just want to say, You're so lucky guy...
My all fi.Qs were having this over charging problem, and they bothered me during Sunday.

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post #137 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryuzoh View Post
I just want to say, You're so lucky guy...
Yes, I am fortunate in many ways.
post #138 of 668
Ryuzoh, mine is also NOT over charging but does get hot when listening with the PSU.

I feel for you......
post #139 of 668
Edit: Thought mine was playing up but it's fine. I'm a very happy boy!!

Apologies Ryuzoh - YGPM
post #140 of 668
So does this appear to be a problem with the 220 volt units vs the 110 (actual voltage here in the US is around 122 volts)? Mine charges correctly and gets warm but that is expected, nothing more than warm.
post #141 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpudHarris View Post
Ryuzoh, mine is also NOT over charging but does get hot when listening with the PSU.

I feel for you......
Very good, and relieved.
Then had you removed R20 already?
Attachment 24095
This updating will reduce hiss when 4ch architecture applied.

Well...writing down how to adjust charging voltage.
Then see pics below.

Measure voltage btwn plus and minus in this, and if battery voltage exceeds more than 16.85V, required to be adjusted.


1. Remove covering on pot, and disconnect DC plug.
2. Run the amp just for a while and to discharge battery
(recommending SW1 ON to increase current consumption).
3. Choose rear switch as 1 and connect DC plug.


4. After confirming the voltage as 16V approximately, rotate the pot counterclockwise.
Then you can see orange LED dying.
5. And set minimum once and slowly rotate clockwise again.
You'll see orange LED lights again.
Set to aiming point as in the image above temporarily, and monitor the voltage every 15 minutes.
6. When orange LED dying, see the voltage.
If not the voltage reached 16.75V, you should very slightly rotate the pot clockwise.
7. If the voltage exceeds 16.8V with orange LED lighting, you should rotate the pot counterclockwise very slightly.
8. Repeat 6 and 7.
9. Put the covering onto the pot and warm with heat gun or hair dryer to fix position and seal.

Just do it.....
LL
post #142 of 668
Ryuzoh, thanks for the great instructions!

Interesting. I had mine in 4 channel and the bass was fine with the Edition 9 and Grado HF2 but with with my JH13's, gone. Like from 60 hz down, almost nothing. Then I switched to 3 channel and everything is there. Strange interaction. I compared with different amps and got bass on the 13's so I figured there was something strange going on with the 4 channel and the 13's. At first the bass was fine so this is a puzzle to me.

What opamp or buffer are all of you using when you are in 4 channel?

Any combinations that really do it for you? They all sound good to me but sometimes there is that something extra like the 1929 mesh plate 27 tube, for me. :^)
post #143 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Ryuzoh, thanks for the great instructions!
x2
post #144 of 668
Thread Starter 
ryuzoh, is it a must to seal?
post #145 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by theory_87 View Post
ryuzoh, is it a must to seal?
I think that you should do the seal if it carries.
It is likely to move because of the vibration.
post #146 of 668
I didnt realize it was reusable. no problem then, i'll just use my old gas iron tyhat has been relegated mainly to this type of thing since getting the hakko.

thanks for the clarification Ryuzoh, it is as easy as it sounded. I was going to go through this thread and compile all the snippets of info and pictures into a PDF and post it here; would people like me to do this?
post #147 of 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post

thanks for the clarification Ryuzoh, it is as easy as it sounded. I was going to go through this thread and compile all the snippets of info and pictures into a PDF and post it here; would people like me to do this?
That would be great and maybe have a note in the title on the first page about page number for full instructions.
post #148 of 668
OK, i'll try to do that overnight, but more likely in my self designated lunch/research break tomorrow. perhaps if people wanted to prompt Ryuzoh for a few more snippets so I can add them it would be wise to do it now just ordered some new chips as well. samples yay! hey its an OEM product and I do buy craploads from them as well. I couldnt bring myself to include BUF634 for a second time; especially since I will end up using the discrete units I reckon anyway. its not a total farce either; I do indeed have [plans for a portable product and this is all R&D for it. whether I end up making a commercial product or simply an indulgent toy is another thing entirely and will depend on the result I guess

so without a schematic i'm going to assume (I hate doing that) that the buffers in the FiQuest are wired as part of the opamp's feedback for current gain? rather than as a buffer/driver stage?? this will make a difference to the way I implement the buffers as far as injecting bias current. I can simply drop them in as a direct replacement for BUF634, but I would prefer to know what I am doing in doing so.
post #149 of 668
I know Jon has been using BUF634's with the wide bandwidth switch to good effect, has anyone else tried it? I have some BUF634U's on adapters and flicking that switch seems to make no difference at all. Yet when I put them in my own adapters (DIP Socket with 220R across 1-4 pins) I can tell a difference Would still like to know the functions of ''Both'' blocks of switches.....
post #150 of 668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post
I didnt realize it was reusable. no problem then, i'll just use my old gas iron tyhat has been relegated mainly to this type of thing since getting the hakko.

thanks for the clarification Ryuzoh, it is as easy as it sounded. I was going to go through this thread and compile all the snippets of info and pictures into a PDF and post it here; would people like me to do this?
Do let me know when done. I will edit my 1st post accordingly.
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