iBasso fi.Quest Official Thread - Page 9

Thank you for picking up the baton so to speak......

Is this a common issue as although mine gets hot whilst charging the orange LED does go off. Haven't checked to see if it is still hot when this has happened though so will do so this evening.

I really would like an explaination of ALL the switches, both inside and out.

Nigel, from my understanding its an issue of the pot (varistor) in the charge circuit that sets the charging voltage/threshold being set at the wrong voltage, so the battery never reaches the point where it thinks its fully charged and stops charging because its above the rated maximum capacity for the cells. it is normal for a battery to be warm and yes even kinda hot for a little while when charging, but it should reach a point where it is charged and stop. in this case the circuit is set to wait for a voltage that it will never actually get to (probably too high), so it will be forever trying to get to that voltage. I think your amp is fine because it reaches that point, it realizes it has reached that point, stops the charging process and turns off the LED. in other words its doing what its designed to do. of course i'll wait for Ryuzoh's post as well, but thats my understanding of the situation. unfortunately I simply dont have time for doing this at the moment so its going on the shelf. i'll use it for a couple more hours to get it down to close to the 16v needed to start the 'MOD' and i'll leave it there until I can do something about it in the next few days.

Mine gets extremely hot when listening with the charging going on also but I don't do that often so it's no biggie. I would however like to get to the bottom of the switch uses. Inside ther are 2 'blocks' which I assume do the same function but for Buffer section and then ground. I knocked up a couple of Buf634U's on adapters and switched on number 1 but unless it needs further listening I couldn't tell any difference.

The switch issue is beginning to bug me somewhat....I've read details on page 5 but that doesn't explain the rear switches.

they dont do the same for both, there is no benefit to being able to decide what percentage of feedback to place on ground like you can with the buffers. I cant say what they all do either though mate, but that wouldnt make sense. i'll go back through and have a look. I think they have actually been explained, but never in any comprehensive way and never at the same time. there have been 2 posts about the switches

edit: just went back and yeah only the left side was explained. the ground side wasnt. the HiC resistor pad for ground isnt populated in stock form though, so yeah some sort of explanation would be appreciated. I have bigger issues. anyway i'm off to work at 1.30am, will touch base tomorrow some time

theory87, do you kow how to adjust a regulated power supply that uses a pot?? that is exactly what we are doing.

I'm not on the same page as you Jeremy regards my electronics ability (although, contrary to popular belief I am quite good with the old Soldering Iron hehe) and I recon there will be quite a few people not up to the task of completing this mod themselves either. I'm anxious to see how this bottoms out.

hmm I dont know how to comment on that without sounding conceited i'm not that far ahead here either mate. i've only really started building and understanding more comprehensive circuits in the last 6 months or so. cables are another thing entirely and in many cases its more of an artisan profession with a technical grounding. of course some cables have high technical merit also. in a lot of cases lately, because i've been pushing my own boundaries with my own personal projects and in my endless search for learning, I dont entirely understand the intricacies of the circuit i'm building either, although I make an effort to rather than simply painting by numbers. I do however tend to know how they interact with each other, the purpose of each module and i'm pretty decent with a soldering iron. most of all though i'm pretty fearless, which is not to be understated when soldering at this level. not everyone should be expected to be able to take this on, nor should they think they have to. I doubt they will be and if need be i'll help out where I can. at least this first round is still a community project and should be treated as such. I dont have a hot melt gun though and I think this amp even under normal operation would be unsuitable for hot glue because of the temp it runs at. i'm not keen on buying tools I wouldnt need otherwise

I think it should be noted that although I am not the only one effected; I was the only person quoted in the response from T.IIZUKA, as he rightly assumed I was interested in this information and would not shy away from taking it on myself. this should not be taken as what is expected of everyone. for that we await the response from Ryuzoh on the matter......

To really understand what is going on here you either have a schematic and can read it, backward engineer to draw one or the layout is fairly simple. I have built equipment from my own design but again you have to have a starting point and with mine I drew out a schematic and so on. Since my unit does not get hot, as stated a little earlier, it boils down to adjusting the reference voltage. Once the method needed to do this is explained the problem should be solved. Knowing the exact implementation of the rear switch will be of value. It would appear as other have stated that 2 is battery only and no charging and 1 is charge but are you running from the external supply and charging the battery? It would seem that if you are running at 24 volts then you are running the unit from the external supply and charging/topping off the batteries. Now position 3, which puts out 16.8 volts. I am not sure exactly how this is working.

I would imagine Ryuzoh will interject here soon.

Lets hope so...

true a schematic would be of great value...... and I think essential for a product built in this spirit.

the switches on the back I would love to know as well; but they should not have any bearing on this problem. the batteries should be charged using one reference and one reference only, no matter what is going on with the amp. I had the switch on 1 for the entire time and I never used the amp while charging, although I do plan to use this functionality to take advantage of 24v sometimes.



if something happens please someone PM me; I dont like getting updates with every post but I really must get some work done.

Well we could always disconnect the battery and that will tell you if you are running form the power supply or the batteries. But I agree, the switch will not tell us about the charging problem.

Strange I added an edit a while ago but it didn't take then I answered an email in the in box and it failed. ?

Again edit: I disconnected the battery but the amp runs from all three positions on the rear switch when plugged in but no battery. I could measure the voltage at the opamp but it doesn't matter. I just want to know for sure what they do.

indeed Jon, 'we' could hehe if I am driven to find out what 3 means I may just do that. it could be of some use if you were trying out combinations and wanted to know what sort of battery drain you had against a finite and known battery voltage?? I dunno, that logic could be totally flawed. i'm totally shooting from the hip there

First, sorry for coming back after a long while....
I'm currently pressed modding fi.Qs and also solving any problems with them

WTF....I've never been in Singapore
Also my friend just had a opportunity to get there, then I asked him to buy some BGs from the shop, but he said no NX and FK there...
There had a few of STD4700, STD47.....why didn't you have them safekeeping before you complain here if you really need them?

See early OEM thread first.
1 as running with 24V supply from PSU, and ALSO charging with 16.8V to battery.
2 as running with 24V supply from PSU, and NOT charging to battery.
In other words, when choosing 2, orange LED will never light.
3 as running with 16.8V supply via regulator, and ALSO charging to battery.
When choosing 3, Orange LED will never die.
If you disconnect 24V DC plug from this amp with every position on rear switch, the amp will automatically run with internal power with 16.8V.

I already know this issue and I can let you know how to solve with pics.
I'm making the images, please wait for a while.

Jeremy, appreciating for your assistance and I already notified Japanese users and iBasso.

Ryuzoh

Maybe I don't know what I am talking about but for myself my iBasso seems to have no issues with the power supply.

Back to how it sounds and using Ultrasone Edition 9s:

Fantastic to me, if I were not listening to it I would not believe it.

Gain on low provides little or no bass boast to me.
Gain on middle or high the bass seems to come more alive in the effect.

Holographic sound all around, with detail and precision of location.

Given my preference to move around I sure am enjoying this higher end sound without having to be located just at my computer.

To others with higher end portable/transportables how is the Fi.Q coming along for you in comparison.