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A Pic-By-Pic Grado SR80 Recable Thread...

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
































Bill of Materials:

-Mogami Mini-quad (W2893)
-3/16" Nylon Multifilament
-Switchcraft HD35ABAU 3.5mm Plug
-1/2" 3:1 Dual-wall Adhesive Heatshrink
-Black Paracord Sheathing (just take the inner paracord strands out)
-Misc. Heatshrink (I believe I used 3/32" for the portion after the y-split, common 2:1 stuff)
-Hot Glue
-Zip Ties (to create the strain relief within the cups)

Brendan
post #2 of 33
Which plug did you use?
post #3 of 33
Clean work. Well done!
post #4 of 33
Nice, clean job as always, Brendan.

Quick question: what kind of heatshrink do you use for you Y-split? It could be just the pictures, but it seems to have a slight shine to it, where the 3 types of heatshrink I have used so far is always a dull, more gray color.
post #5 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by unl3a5h3d View Post
Which plug did you use?
That looks like a Neutrik.

EDIT: on closer inspection, a Neutrik it is not.
post #6 of 33
there is more shiny shrink than this, but the stuff he used there is called meltable wall heatshrink. it has a thick plasticy type inner layer that melts when you shrink it, it sets quite hard. and needs a decent amount of heat to get to a flat surface, so be careful not to hover too long near the nylon or other covering or your mark/melt it, DO NOT TOUCH IT WHILE ITS HOT!! it will show fingerprints badly as its still soft (fixed with a bit more heat). personally I would probably use pliers that didnt have grooves for grip on them for this Y method (and do) but hey its just an aesthetic thing and personal taste. nice guide though mate!!

oh and for the poster asking what type of plug; its the ubiquitous switchcraft mini 35HDBAU
post #7 of 33
Thread Starter 
Yeah....I didn't have smooth pliers And I wasn't about to file away the teeth on it on a $70 pair of pliers. I used 3:1 shrink (with the adhesive) from TakeFiveAudio...one, one foot length allowed me to do alot of recables. The plug is indeed a Switchcraft 3.5mm plug....like to use it when I recable with any variants of Starquad...with a Neutrik I have to drill out the body.

FYI, DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN TO TAKE APART THE GRADO'S! Unless you want melted cups. I set my haridryer on high for about 2 minutes and heated the outer cup, then twisted them apart. It's a good idea to clean up the cups because the leftover adhesive may prevent a good seal when you reglue the cups together.

Any other questions, just ask.

Brendan
post #8 of 33
you can just heat shrink the metal on the pliers then cut it back off once your done. also you might want not heat shrink the wire after the split makes it very stiff i use just 1/2 a inch at the end to keep the braid intact while working.
post #9 of 33
Thread Starter 
.....Why didn't I think of that? Depends on the heatshrink used, but mine has a pretty thin wall. Its more flexible than the mini starquad. I just use it to keep the twist in place.
post #10 of 33
Nice knives. Cables cut with Manix's just sound better.
post #11 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post
Nice knives. Cables cut with Manix's just sound better.
LOL, you're a knifeaddict like me?
post #12 of 33
Nice post OP.
post #13 of 33
Excellent post!!! Perhaps you could include a BOM { bill of materials } listing all the parts and cable that you used. I am looking at a similar project with some MS 1's. Keep up the great work!!
post #14 of 33
Wow this is awesome!!! I should do this to my Grado SR 225 because i have some probs with the cable. Do you maybe know where to buy a great cable like this in EU?

Thanks!!!
post #15 of 33
Great Mod Job for my SR-325i
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