Warren Audio's broken hd800 cables - Page 4

This thread got way off track after my mentioning a health problem and the tremendous response a number of very kind members posted.  I now have an outcome to the Warren Audio, Rick Warren, Fidelity Audio problem that caused me to post in this thread in the first instance.  However, because I think this thread got way off the point, I'm going to post the resolution in another Head-Fi.org thread where the most recent relevant posting occurred within the last week and was directly relevant to the main issue.  The link to that thread is http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/419848/warren-audio-formerly-fidelity-audio.  To everyone that took the time to express concern and well wishes concerning my health issues, I again thank you.  I encourage you to all check out the outcome of my case in the other thread.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricmiclaw 

This thread got way off track to to my mentioning a health problem and the tremendous response a number of very kind members posted.  I now have an outcome to the Warren Audio, Rick Warren, Fidelity Audio problem that caused me to post in this thread in the instance.  However, because I think this thread got way off the point, I'm going to post the resolution in another Head-Fi.org thread where the most recent relevant posting occurred within the last week and was directly relevant to the main issue.  The link to that thread is http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/419848/warren-audio-formerly-fidelity-audio.  To everyone that took the time to express concern and well wishes concerning my health issues, I again thank you.  I encourage you to all check out the outcome of my case in the other thread.

Just read the outcome.  Congrats on getting your money back!

Yes I'm afraid all this echoes my experience.  The first cables sent did not work at all and it is easy to see how easily they short out at the Sennies end.  The gold connector pins are very close together and the still Warren cabling adds to the problem as others have posted.

Anyway he sent a second pair which initially worked OK but then started shorting out in the right connector.  Rather than return them for a fix as Warren offered, ihad a go myself. I was lucky and managed a fix easily, using as much shrink wrap as possible - unfortunately too tight in the Sennie plug to use there.  

But then a few weeks later the left leas started shorting out but it took several hours before I finally managed a fix.  During that process the gold connector pin broke so I had to resuscitate one of the plugs in the first set.

I'm not angry with Warren about this as it seems like pushing the proverbial runny stuff uphill with a rake to expect avoiding a short inside the small Sennie plug which was obviously not designed to accommodate thick stiff cabling. BTW is there some sort of glue or insulative gunk that can be used inside the Sennie plug instead of plumbers tape?

Bottom line, are the Warren cables worth it?  I cannot give a clear answer to that as I find auditory memory most unreliable and that comes into play big time changing headphone cables.  About all that can be said is they are more sanely priced than the opposition.  But I had better buy a couple more Sennie plugs as insurance for future problems.

John

The only reliable way to fix something like this is to re-tin the Warren wires (which are enameled copper) using an actual solder pot to get a good finish on the tips - then, you really need to use a fine soldering tip and plenty of flux on the rhodium contacts of the Cardas Sennheiser connector in order to not melt the plug in the process.  You also do not want to (with your clip stand) grip the plastic part of the plug when you're soldering as the heat will soften the plastic and then the clips of the clip stand will deform it - instead, grab it by the pins.  

Quote:

Originally Posted by scootermafia 

The only reliable way to fix something like this is to re-tin the Warren wires (which are enameled copper) using an actual solder pot to get a good finish on the tips - then, you really need to use a fine soldering tip and plenty of flux on the rhodium contacts of the Cardas Sennheiser connector in order to not melt the plug in the process.  You also do not want to (with your clip stand) grip the plastic part of the plug when you're soldering as the heat will soften the plastic and then the clips of the clip stand will deform it - instead, grab it by the pins.  

Thanks for the tips Scootermafia (a rather frightening moniker so I'll be courteous) .  When doing the repair the other day I had the plug held in a small portable vice but take your point it should not be gripped too tight.  I pretty much did what you suggest but had to use the Warren tip of plumbers tape to insulate.  The plug is just too small to be able to use even the smallest heat shrink tubing in the amourware here.  Another of your posts said something about creating a block to put between the pins.  Would you mind elaborating please?

I've just put up a post elsewhere asking for a source of the plugs - need to have one in reserve for future repairs.  But so far it looks like they cost an unreasonable $50 each.  Have you found a less expensive source?

TIA

John

The name dates back to college when my entire dorm floor bought Razor scooters and rode around campus like morons.  I believe I was the last person to get rid of mine.  

There's no need to do any fancy insulating if you don't burn off too much of the enamel.  Just make sure only a little bit of tinned wire is protruding out of the contact holes of the plug.  If you strip it way back I can see that being a problem.  If you use flux on the plug, you don't need as much heat and time and solder to make a good connection.  Safe Art Systems Liquid Flux is my favorite, or similar, you apply it with a Q-tip.  Then again, having a $650 soldering iron doesn't hurt.  

Wait a sec, are we talking HD800 plugs?  Those are a little tougher.  I used to put a small rectangle of thick glueshrink between the pins to prevent shorting.  Now, I just use skills and faith.  The shrink definitely doesn't hurt though.  It also helps to wrap the whole thing in teflon tape afterward; that way if the profile on the soldering is too high and both sides touch the strain relief metal cylinders then you don't have a problem.  It helps to dip the solder contacts in flux then tin them with some solder before you try to attach anything to them.

I actually have a pic of me doing the same fix you're talking about.  

Yes, the plugs really are that expensive, unless you buy 500 at a time from the Chinese.  

You shame me with your neat soldering.  Just keeping everything crossed my latest efforts hold.  At 76 my skills are not as steady etc as in the past but I'll keep trying.  My wife also finds me trying at times!

John
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by scootermafia 

Wait a sec, are we talking HD800 plugs?  Those are a little tougher.  I used to put a small rectangle of thick glueshrink between the pins to prevent shorting.  Now, I just use skills and faith.  The shrink definitely doesn't hurt though.  It also helps to wrap the whole thing in teflon tape afterward; that way if the profile on the soldering is too high and both sides touch the strain relief metal cylinders then you don't have a problem.  It helps to dip the solder contacts in flux then tin them with some solder before you try to attach anything to them.

 

I actually have a pic of me doing the same fix you're talking about.  

 

 

Yes, the plugs really are that expensive, unless you buy 500 at a time from the Chinese.  

I would agree that that particular cable is not for beginners...enamel wire is a real pain in the butt to work with.

You can thank Sennheiser for the high prices on those connectors.  People used to be able to buy them for $16 per pair direct from ODU (the manufacturer) until Sennheiser decreed that they could not be sold to anyone other than themselves.  A few places custom make them, but you have to buy a lot at a time and it gets pricy too.  

Ouch I got a little nauseous when I saw that.

I've had good luck with Ken's (ALO) HD800 connectors, they're very pretty.

Chris Himself - where to get a "Ken (ALO) HD800 connector?

I've Googled until I'm cross eyed and the only "positive" hit so far is

http://www.moon-audio.com/diy-audio-parts/other-connectors/sennheiser-hd800-diy-headphone-connectors.html

They offer a heatshrink pack for an extra $15, an expensive add on BUT maybe worthwhile if the heatshrink could be used on the wire & connection to the rotten little pins.  The heatshrink I have is just too big.

The other crowd that make up the connectors now refuse to sell them and referred me back to Sennheiser.  All rather paranoid.

John

http://aloaudio.com/sennheiser-hd800-headphone-connector-one-connector..html

They're so nice it's just silly.... yes they are 50 dollars. After that initial sting, I looked at probably one of the best things we had ever built haha. Btw you don't want to heatshrink over them because they're so nice looking. What I did was just seal the gap between the plug and cable per ALO's instructions with simple epoxy. It's strong and it'll last forever!

If you need heatshrink, go to the hardware store, it's not a designer item, it's an everyday home repair/electrician item!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_Himself 

 

http://aloaudio.com/sennheiser-hd800-headphone-connector-one-connector..html

 

They're so nice it's just silly.... yes they are 50 dollars. After that initial sting, I looked at probably one of the best things we had ever built haha. Btw you don't want to heatshrink over them because they're so nice looking. What I did was just seal the gap between the plug and cable per ALO's instructions with simple epoxy. It's strong and it'll last forever!

 

If you need heatshrink, go to the hardware store, it's not a designer item, it's an everyday home repair/electrician item!

Thanks for the response Chris.

Yes I have heaps of heatshrink tubing here now but wondered if they were offering something a bit different but I guess not.  I had not thought of using epoxy resin but will do so if I have to redo the connectors.

If they were $16 odd I'd get them now but at $100 for a pair + postage I guess the "insurance" policy of having spares which might never be used is an extravagance to be avoided.  So I'll pass on buying anything for now.

But thank you everyone for the helping ideas.

John

They're $50 a pair, not $100.