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Where to go next? (From a D2k to HD650, DT 880, K701?) - Page 2

post #16 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesekiwi View Post
Well the 600 ohm version of the DT880's is the best out of all the DT880's. It has more bass than the recessed bass of the 2003 DT880's and less harsh highs than DT880 '03 as well.
Impressions from me and others (vs. other DT880's and other headphones):

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f4/bey...thread-429371/

If you got good amplification, the DT880/600 are a no brainer vs. the K701, HD650 and HD600 tbh.
Hm. That thread has pretty much ruled out the DT 880s for me. Sibilance is something I definitely know I want to rule out for my next pair of cans. It's not that it's always a make-or-break attribute for me, but like I said, I already have that issue with the D2000s and I find I'm pretty sensitive to it (other people who use my cans often say they don't hear it at all on tracks where I find it quite distracting and even potentially painful).

I'm hoping to find something smooth, definitely.
post #17 of 39
This is kinda out of your options, but if your main concern is sibilance, I would also consider Shure SRH-840. yes, it is closed and perhaps a league below those top 3 cans, but Shures have somewhat rolled off highs sounds beautiful within its canvas.
Out of three phones, I would go with DT880/600ohm for excellent instrument seperations and punchy bass. But you would need to hear it at a low volume to aviod sibilance. HD650 is also smooth but is best at classical musics.
post #18 of 39
I've owned DT880, D2000 and K701. If you find D2000 sibilance, stay far away from DT880 which is the brightest and most sibilance headphone I've ever owned until now. Grado SR325i is considered warm in comparison.

From your requirements, I'd suggest K701/K501 or HD600. K601 is not bad too but it doesn't have details than former ones. All of these are upgrade from D2000 and non of these will give you that loss, uncontrolled and boomy bass from D2000.

EDIT: many find K701 sibilance too, but for a treble, sibilance sensitive person like me, I don't find that to be the case.
post #19 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cankin View Post
I've owned DT880, D2000 and K701. If you find D2000 sibilance, stay far away from DT880 which is the brightest and most sibilance headphone I've ever owned until now. Grado SR325i is considered warm in comparison.

From your requirements, I'd suggest K701/K501 or HD600. K601 is not bad too but it doesn't have details than former ones. All of these are upgrade from D2000 and non of these will give you that loss, uncontrolled and boomy bass from D2000.

EDIT: many find K701 sibilance too, but for a treble, sibilance sensitive person like me, I don't find that to be the case.
I admit I'm really interested by what I hear about the K701. I've never really heard cans with that signature and I find the idea definitely appealing. Gonna really go digging for more reviews.
post #20 of 39
Thread Starter 
After some consideration, I think the K701 is what I'm looking for. The only thing I can foresee being a problem is the anemic bass, but I'm not necessarily looking for neutrality. I'll probably buy from somewhere that offers a return policy in case I find them to be too bright, but everything I'm reading is pretty clearly putting them ahead of the pack for what I'm looking for.

Does anyone have any comments? It'll be a few days before I yet have the cash to actually buy the damn things.

Oh, and what's Amazon's return policy when you're buying from some dealer through them? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
post #21 of 39
I am pretty sure you will find K701 bright. Especially hot cymbals.
post #22 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by backwardsname View Post
After some consideration, I think the K701 is what I'm looking for. The only thing I can foresee being a problem is the anemic bass, but I'm not necessarily looking for neutrality.
If you go with the K701/702, be aware that people claim that they are really picky in terms of source(s) used and that they require 300 or so hours of burn-in to reach their sonic potential.

Quote:
Oh, and what's Amazon's return policy when you're buying from some dealer through them? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Each Amazon merchant will have a link to their specific return policy, you can usually get to it by clicking on the merchant's name. If the shipping is fulfilled by Amazon, the regular Amazon return policy applies.
post #23 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pzm9pzm9 View Post
I am pretty sure you will find K701 bright. Especially hot cymbals.
Well, yes, from what I hear that is the signature of the cans. I'm OK with bright. I think I made a bit of a mistake earlier in the thread with certain word choices -- I'm still fairly new to the audiophile world and I sometimes get the terms wrong.

Bright is OK, but not harshness, sibilance, or grainy highs.

I can imagine something being bright without being painful or fatiguing, and I'm not crazy into neutrality, so I think it should be pretty interesting/fun trying out a new kind of sound signature.
post #24 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by pzm9pzm9 View Post
I am pretty sure you will find K701 bright. Especially hot cymbals.
Not more than the DT 880.
post #25 of 39

Agreed...

After about 100 hours the brightness really goes away and these turn into amazing cans!

I previously owned the DT880s and found them bright (even with substantial burn in).
post #26 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpaul View Post
If you go with the K701/702, be aware that people claim that they are really picky in terms of source(s) used and that they require 300 or so hours of burn-in to reach their sonic potential.
I'm definitely fine with the long burn-in time, and from what I've read, the HR Ultra Micro stack pairs well with the K701 -- not an extraordinary match, but a very good one nonetheless. So hopefully I should be set on that front.
post #27 of 39
If I recall correctly, you've only had these headphones for a short while?

I recommend you wait until they burn in more. It took at LEAST 300 hours for my D5000s to fully burn in, and I was amazed at the changes. Flabby bass was gone, no more sibilant highs. I absolutely adore them in every possible way now.

I'm not sure if the same will happen with D2Ks, but I would assume they will undergo a similar change after extensive burn in since they use the same drivers.
post #28 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Necrolic View Post
If I recall correctly, you've only had these headphones for a short while?

I recommend you wait until they burn in more. It took at LEAST 300 hours for my D5000s to fully burn in, and I was amazed at the changes. Flabby bass was gone, no more sibilant highs. I absolutely adore them in every possible way now.

I'm not sure if the same will happen with D2Ks, but I would assume they will undergo a similar change after extensive burn in since they use the same drivers.
I think I've already put around 300 hours on these. I've had them for over a month now, and I listen close to eight hours a day, and left them on overnight a few times when I first got them to burn-in. I noticed some initial changes for the first 50 hours or so, but after that I haven't really heard anything different.

edit: also, I'm not selling the D2ks. I really love them in a lot of ways, I just want some variation to play around with depending on my mood and what I'm listening to.
post #29 of 39
why buy new headphones?

Going by what other people have said, modding them can tone down the sibilance and bring out the best out of the headphones. I'm expecting my jmoney pads here tomorrow (according to UPS anyway) and I'm going to get them Markl modded down the road (probably sometime after Christmas).

Can someone else chime in and let us know if modding really tones it down? I'm not bothered from it by much at all, then again, I'm a big Grado fan (325s are in my sights).
post #30 of 39
I honestly don't think the three headphones being considered by the OP are much of an upgrade to the D2000. If you're going to upgrade, save up for a big upgrade (wait till you can afford to buy something in D7000 or HD 800 territory)
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