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Recabling Questions

post #1 of 26
11/21/09 at 11:50pm
Thread Starter 
Thinking about my first re-cable attempt. I have no prior experience re-cabling. I was wondering what is a good budget cable and 1/8 plug for a Jecklin Float 2 (dynamic). The plug started failing and was wondering if a complete re cable would benefit the quality overall.
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post #2 of 26
11/22/09 at 12:20am
Mogami and Canare starquad are good starter cables. They're cheap and very easy to work with as you don't need to do any kind of braiding or even any sleeving if you don't want to. For 1/8" plugs, look at Neutrik and Switchcraft. Both are easy to work with and good for the money. Canare makes a solidly built 1/8" connector but it's harder to work with and way too bulky imo. Viablue makes nice connectors but they're on the costly side for mini connectors.
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post #3 of 26
11/22/09 at 12:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyline889 View Post
Mogami and Canare starquad are good starter cables. They're cheap and very easy to work with as you don't need to do any kind of braiding or even any sleeving if you don't want to. For 1/8" plugs, look at Neutrik and Switchcraft. Both are easy to work with and good for the money. Canare makes a solidly built 1/8" connector but it's harder to work with and way too bulky imo. Viablue makes nice connectors but they're on the costly side for mini connectors.
I agree.. I prefer the mogami because, imo, it is easier to strip. Hate getting that metal-type of sleeving off the canare. make sure you note the maximum diameter of cable that can fit into the neutrik plug. the barrels on some are wider than others.
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post #4 of 26
11/22/09 at 1:04am
Thread Starter 
I just have a few concerns since i am a complete noob.

1) the Mogami 2534 looks good but it has 4 wires instead of three.
2) what plug should i get that goes with the 2534, does 3 vs 4 contacts matter. The float jack has 3.
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post #5 of 26
11/22/09 at 1:08am
The plug has three contacts (L/R/Ground) but you need four leads because you need a signal and a ground for each driver channel (L/R). You solder the L/R signal leads to their respective contacts on the mini-plug and the two ground leads to the ground contact on the mini plug.
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post #6 of 26
11/22/09 at 1:54am
Thread Starter 
I got a few more concerns and questions:

1) the original cable has three leads red(ground), white(left), and green(right). the original plug has three contacts one for each.
2) the cable is feed through a hole on the left side where the ground and left lead is connected to the driver. the green is feed through another hole up around the band into the right driver.
3) heres the weird part, there is a blue wire connecting the left to the right. I think this is acting as ground for the right that is then connected to the left side ground point.

so would using a four lead work, instead of using a wiring plan like the original? Would there be an improvement from having separate grounds instead of one? Also another concern is the total diameter of the cable, its going through a hole and im not sure if the Mogami 2534 will pass though it. the original cable's diameter is slightly less than that of grado's cable (before the new beefy ones).
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post #7 of 26
11/22/09 at 2:04am
Thread Starter 
also im looking at some plug manufactures website and wondering what does "conductor" means?
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post #8 of 26
11/22/09 at 2:05am
I believe Mogami 2893 is thinner than 2534, so maybe look at that if you're worried it will be too thick.

Since the new cable has four leads and the old three, just double up one of them. I typically double the ground wire in these cases.

Do you have a picture of the current wiring, so we can see how the cable runs connecting to the right driver?
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post #9 of 26
11/22/09 at 2:15am
when they list number of conductors it's basically just the number of actual wires in the cable. so the mogami and canare starquad have 4 conductors whereas the original cable in your headphones would have 3 conductors
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post #10 of 26
11/22/09 at 2:19am
Thread Starter 
alright got some pics of the cable and the wiring for the left and right side. the fist pic is the left side the last is the right side.
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #11 of 26
11/22/09 at 10:35pm
No one give him advice until he posts a pic with him wearing the floats

For the time being you could just put a new plug on it.
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post #12 of 26
11/22/09 at 11:04pm
Thread Starter 
lol ill post some up later, in the mean time i ordered a new plug and some cable.
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post #13 of 26
11/22/09 at 11:07pm
How does what appears to be a kid in a dorm or his room afford the HP-2, HF-2, HF-1, RS-2, and RS-1?
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post #14 of 26
11/22/09 at 11:14pm
Thread Starter 
just got a HP1 also
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post #15 of 26
11/23/09 at 4:27pm
Thread Starter 
im also thinking about getting a braided sleeve for the wires. Is there any benefit of getting them sleeved besides the looks? anyone got a recommended online site to by them that fits the mogami 2893 and another that fits the 2534? also do they just go over the cables how do i install them?

Update:
Well i found some 1/8 and 1/4 techflex sleeves from parts express im guessing these would just fit over the outer insulator of the cable? also after i try this on my floats im thinking of re-cabling my ES7, but im not sure what to do with the y splitter i see a lot of ppl use heat shrink how many pieces/size would i use and are there some alternatives. I see some have some kind of solid piece that goes over the split, where would i get those from? And I've read techflex may make the cable more stiff and more microphonic, but by how much? And would I need to heat shrink the end at the plug end and the end at the cups of the headphone? thanks
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