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Weller WLC100 in Australia.

post #1 of 22
11/13/09 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
Well I ordered one of these after reading a few things about it around the place (some good and some bad).

One thing I obviously didn't research well enough was that there is no Australian Voltage version.

What is the process I need to go through to safely use this station in Australia?

Thanks in advance and sorry if it's a silly question, first real DIY endeavour and I want to do it right.

Matt.
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post #2 of 22
11/13/09 at 3:43pm
Hey Matt,

A Step down Transformer is needed if you have an appliance designed to run on America's 110 volt system but is needed to run on Australia's 240 volt power. You’d need one that is over 40 watts for the Weller WLC100.

Cheers
John
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post #3 of 22
11/13/09 at 10:47pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for this quick reply John.

Is this this kind of thing I'm looking at? Bit more expensive then I was hoping... but it's a necessity.
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post #4 of 22
11/14/09 at 12:11am
I can’t find a wattage spec for that transformer, you need at least a 50 watts or more. This one is the same price and is the correct wattage:
step down tansformer australia stepdowns step down transformers

If you don’t use a step down transformer you’ll be putting 240v straight into a 120v transformer. Your Weller would FRY, bigtime.
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post #5 of 22
11/14/09 at 12:35am
Thread Starter 
Yup, dad's an old sparky so I'm hoping he'll be able to get his hands on one.

Cheers,
Matt.
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post #6 of 22
11/14/09 at 9:10am
Thread Starter 
John, after consulting dad he raised the question of whether it might be more viable to sell this station and buy one that will work native.

Just wondering what station/iron you use or would recommend?

Thanks again,
Matt.
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post #7 of 22
11/14/09 at 10:44am
I’m using a DSE T2200 $99, it’s been a trooper.

Details:
Temperature Controlled Soldering Station
A solidly built soldering station with a compact soldering pencil, adjustable temperature selection (150 C to 450 C), and temperature metering.

Check out the DSE there’s some cheaper models there as well, try not to skimp on wattage.
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post #8 of 22
11/14/09 at 10:52am
Thread Starter 
Been recommended the DSE T2250 and the Hakko 936 so far, I'll investigate pricing on the Hakko and see what I can do about getting rid of this Weller.

Cheers,
Matt.
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post #9 of 22
11/14/09 at 11:49am
Hehe you'll find the dse more gentle on the wallet.
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post #10 of 22
11/14/09 at 11:54am
Thread Starter 
Haha, yeah with two good recommendations for the DSE I'm looking favourably upon it.

But will put the research in nonetheless, and see what I can find.

Just gotta figure out what to do with this weller!!!!
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post #11 of 22
11/16/09 at 5:10am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
The Hakko 936 is no longer manufactured. We also are no longer agents
for Hakko and do not have a replacement.

Regards
Kevin
From computronics.
DSE here I come.

Do you think mouser will take the Weller station back and give me a refund for it?
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post #12 of 22
11/16/09 at 7:44am
Well that blow doesn't it... I love my 936 :'(
Oh well I guess next time I'll just move up the hakko ladder =P
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post #13 of 22
11/16/09 at 7:48am
Thread Starter 
Hahaha yeah, oh well as I said... DSE is looking pretty swell.
I've been in contact with Fred_fred2004 (Howard) and he's informed me that the T2250 takes Hakko tips so that's a plus and I've found a few on ebay.

Just gotta get in contact with Mouser, and if that fails, hopefully pass it on somewhere around here....

If you need it or know of a friend who might be interested (and also owns a stepdown transformer) let me know!
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post #14 of 22
11/16/09 at 7:52am
I just ordered two new tips for my T2200, what solder do you use Tom? I’ve been using Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder, haven’t had a cold joint yet. Pricey but very nice...

Matt, good luck with your builds over xmas, I can’t wait to see some pics
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post #15 of 22
11/16/09 at 10:10am
I just use which ever store's is closer =D
50ft ago it was something from DSE but now it is some stuff from Jaycar.

I isopropyl all of my pc boards before I start, flux pen every joint/component, and then use the iron quite hot so that I am almost guaranteed a good joint.
But being the man-with-too-much-time that I am I then reflow everything once before clipping the leads.
Once a board is finished and scrubbed I then go over with a magnifying glass using this old 10^(feck off) lumen light.
That thing is so hot I can only use it for about 5 min at a time before I have to take a break lol.

I have only ever had 2 cold joints thanks to being this anal.
The first was on one of the mini3's I built when I had inadvertently knocked the 936's knob down about a 100c (I laughed pretty hard when I realized why nothing was wicking or melting full stop hehe).
The other time was a rushed flood and braid... there are like 10 unused or grounded pins on that chip and it had to be one of the ones that wasn't lol.
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