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Recabling M50's, Need help, First time.

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
My Audio Techinca ATH-M50's recently broke, the wire is disconnected at the jack, INSIDE the jack cover. I don't want to buy new headphones, because I am pretty much in love with these..

If I can fix mine, I would really love to, a shorter cable version of the M50's just sounds great for portability. Would anybody show me a good thourough guide on how to solder it to my existing M50's cable? My source for the connector (TRS MiniJack 3.5 mm) will be from this page.

Will I need any specific Minijack from that page? Solder? Or any other tools?

It's my first time doing this, so if anyone can take pictures of how to do this or even explain it in detail, I will REALLY love that.

Thank you again, and please put up with my stupidity while I figure things out...
post #2 of 13
The link (sticky) at the top of the DIY page will show you most of what you need to know.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...ep-pics-50729/

You will need to determine which wire is which in the cable. Do you have a meter (DMM) with continuity check? If so, you can cut the bad plug off, leaving some cable on it. You can strip the individual wires of the cable still attached to the plug, and using the meter, determine what wire is what (L, R, gnd) by ohming each wire out to the tip, ring and sleeve of the plug. Tip is L channel, ring is R channel, and the sleeve is ground. Then it is a simple matter of putting the plug on.
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post
The link (sticky) at the top of the DIY page will show you most of what you need to know.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...ep-pics-50729/

You will need to determine which wire is which in the cable. Do you have a meter (DMM) with continuity check? If so, you can cut the bad plug off, leaving some cable on it. You can strip the individual wires of the cable still attached to the plug, and using the meter, determine what wire is what (L, R, gnd) by ohming each wire out to the tip, ring and sleeve of the plug. Tip is L channel, ring is R channel, and the sleeve is ground. Then it is a simple matter of putting the plug on.

Honeslty, I have no idea what you are talking about.. I know about cutting it off at the part it finishes (Just before the jack), But currently im not by my headphones, so I dont know how many wires are in the cable.

I also dont know how to figure out which one is left and righed and ground..

What is a 'Meter' DMM? Continuity Check? Ohming? ... I think this might be too much for me.. *sigh* ...


Sorry if I'm too much of a newb, but.. I really want to get these fixed. All I have is some soldering experiance, thats all....
post #4 of 13
i would suggest goolging and reading. everything mentioned above are basic skills needed to do what you're asking. option b would be sending them to someone that can do it for you..
post #5 of 13
By "meter" Pars means a Digital Multimeter, or DMM. A DMM usually measures volts, amps, and ohms, which is voltage, resistance, and current. A "continuity tester" is a simpler type of ohmmeter - it won't tell you how much resistance there is, just if there is a connection from one point to another. Lately, a DMM is inexpensive enough that few people still have dedicated continuity testers.

If you don't have one, then you don't have the tools to do this job.

You'll also need a soldering iron and rosin core solder. Don't use acid core solder on electronics. Again, if you don't have any handy, you don't have the tools for the job.

If you have a continuity tester, you can use that. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check for infinite reistance versis no resistance. Infinite resistance is no connection, no resistance means a wire.

Most headphone connectors have three connections, one at the very tip, one that's a ring past that, and then the third which is the rest of the connector. These are called "tip", "ring" and "sleeve".

There will be three different colors of wire inside the cable. One is tip, one is ring, and one is sleeve. You just have to know which is which. (Some have four wires, two of which will be ground, and both should go to the sleeve.)

Your old plug will have the right connections made to these points. Pars is suggesting you cut the cable a little ways - an inch or two should do it - before the old plug. Then strip off some of the insulation on that little tail and figure out which wire in the cable goes to each of those connections. Use your ohmmeter or continuity tester to figure out which wire in the cable leads to which part on the old connector. Take notes.

Once you know which wire goes where, you can solder a new connector on to the end of the cable, just like the old one was. (You don't even really need to know which is left, right, and ground as long as they are conencted to the new conenctor the same way they were connected to the old one.)

If this is too much for you, any local electronics repair place should be able to do this for you. They'll probably want a surprising amount an hour to do the work, though.
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou Erickson View Post
By "meter" Pars means a Digital Multimeter, or DMM. A DMM usually measures volts, amps, and ohms, which is voltage, resistance, and current. A "continuity tester" is a simpler type of ohmmeter - it won't tell you how much resistance there is, just if there is a connection from one point to another. Lately, a DMM is inexpensive enough that few people still have dedicated continuity testers.

If you don't have one, then you don't have the tools to do this job.

You'll also need a soldering iron and rosin core solder. Don't use acid core solder on electronics. Again, if you don't have any handy, you don't have the tools for the job.

If you have a continuity tester, you can use that. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check for infinite reistance versis no resistance. Infinite resistance is no connection, no resistance means a wire.

Most headphone connectors have three connections, one at the very tip, one that's a ring past that, and then the third which is the rest of the connector. These are called "tip", "ring" and "sleeve".

There will be three different colors of wire inside the cable. One is tip, one is ring, and one is sleeve. You just have to know which is which. (Some have four wires, two of which will be ground, and both should go to the sleeve.)

Your old plug will have the right connections made to these points. Pars is suggesting you cut the cable a little ways - an inch or two should do it - before the old plug. Then strip off some of the insulation on that little tail and figure out which wire in the cable goes to each of those connections. Use your ohmmeter or continuity tester to figure out which wire in the cable leads to which part on the old connector. Take notes.

Once you know which wire goes where, you can solder a new connector on to the end of the cable, just like the old one was. (You don't even really need to know which is left, right, and ground as long as they are conencted to the new conenctor the same way they were connected to the old one.)

If this is too much for you, any local electronics repair place should be able to do this for you. They'll probably want a surprising amount an hour to do the work, though.
Well, I need a place in BC, Canada, to do the work, I really dont feel comfortable cutting the wire and working on it, I don't have the meters or Ohmmeter like you recommended either, just the wire strippers, solder, and soldering iron...

How much would they usually charge? How long would it take...?
post #7 of 13
Quote:
How much would they usually charge? How long would it take...?
Too much, 10 minutes, respectively.

Shame about the multimeter; Canadian Tire was selling a $60 Mastercraft model for $20. I nabbed one of the four last ones in Richmond for my planned M^3/Gamma1 build. Sale ended today.

You might want to educate yourself about electronics. It'll save you money, it's handy for other work, and it's good for a hobby dealing with electronics. Alternatively, you can just find a friend who's got enough electrical knowhow to do the job. There ought to be somebody, if you're not willing to learn/do it yourself.
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
I know it wouldn't be as cheap as doing it myself, but it would probably be done better... So can I have a quick estimate? Sorry for asking for so much info, but its hard to find info online for places in BC that do this.

I have already emailed one guy, but he hasn't gotten back to me yet. He lives nearby me..
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Bump....
post #10 of 13
Last time I had electronics repaired, they wanted $85 per hour, in half hour increments. The phone book is going to be your friend on finding a place. Any electronics or TV repair place will be able to do what is needed.

If you're lucky, and it's a small shop that's not too busy, they can do it while you wait. If not, it may be a few days till it shows up in their queue.

I'd look for a smaller shop, myself, as they are likely to give better customer service and be more willing to do a small job.
post #11 of 13
Ok, dont listen to the guys saying you need all this technical equipment just to solder on a new 3.5mm jack. First off, buy a new jack from your local radio shack'ish store.

Second, cut the old 3.5mm jack off where the cable goes into the plug.

Third, follow this guide. How-to: Change your headphone's minijack! (now w/videos) - Headphones - abi>>forums
post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone.. but I found a person in Maple Ridge by me that will fix them for 25 dollars in 1/2 an hour... Warren Audio.

I cant wait to be listening to these babies again, I tried fixing them myself, but I only got scratchy sound or only one speaker working fully, I suck at soldering.. Lol.


I'll post again when I get the cable resized and fixed...
post #13 of 13

Just what I needed...

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