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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 664

post #9946 of 10873

A week or so ago I had posted about installing a 4-pin mini-xlr in mine. I got around to doing it yesterday. I wound up putting it in the position of the stock jack, but I may relocate this to the bottom. So far, the plug sticking out the side hasn't bothered me at all.

 

I did not take any pics while I was doing the work, but drilled the stock jack location out to 7/16" (0.434") with a unibit. This took out most of the stock jack support plastic. I then took out the rest of it from the inside with a dremel. The stock wiring appears to be not too bad, and I did not have any problems soldering it to the jack. Stock jack appeared to be a Switchcraft (or knock-off) mini jack.

 

Jack and plug I used were from Redco, and appear to be Switchcraft. The nut for the jack fit fine after removing the stock jack support material, so no glue needed, and jack is nice and tight.

 

 

 


Edited by Pars - 2/17/13 at 1:22pm
post #9947 of 10873

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm afraid that a counter treble reflector may make the headphone sound boring, by decreasing all the treble rather than the targeted 9-11 khz range, same goes for removing a bit of cotton (overly bassy).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

+1

 

The initial build is "initial." Each set must be tuned to suit each modder's preferences x gear x ears.

 

As little as 5 mm more or 5 mm less cotton thickness can make a significant change in the FR and sound quality.

5 mm Less = less treble, more bass.

 

Could also try with and without treble reflector.

 

"Bass Boost" holes in the stiff felt are optional and not generally needed.

 

IME/IMO/YMMV



Thanks for the enormous contribution to modding the t50rps, have you tried putting a counter reflector? if not, could you do a measurement with some short of treble reflector on the opposite side of the drivers?

post #9948 of 10873
Quote:
Originally Posted by asdafaasda View Post

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm afraid that a counter treble reflector may make the headphone sound boring, by decreasing all the treble rather than the targeted 9-11 khz range, same goes for removing a bit of cotton (overly bassy).

 

At least for me, removing cotton improved the treble spike and sibilance without negatively affecting the high end sparkle that I love.  I ended up going back twice to remove a layer and the final result was exactly 1/2 the amount called for in the mod (by weight).  I also feel that adding foam to the plasticine surfaces made a small but noticeable improvement in mid-treble harshness (reflections maybe?)

post #9949 of 10873
Quote:
Originally Posted by asdafaasda View Post

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm afraid that a counter treble reflector may make the headphone sound boring, by decreasing all the treble rather than the targeted 9-11 khz range, same goes for removing a bit of cotton (overly bassy).



Thanks for the enormous contribution to modding the t50rps, have you tried putting a counter reflector? if not, could you do a measurement with some short of treble reflector on the opposite side of the drivers?

 

Your pleasure and success is mine :)

 

No, I have not tried a "counter-treble reflector but it's an interesting idea. Try it and let us know how it works.

 

I no longer have the phantom power supply (gave to a headfi friend) and the mic I used for Incremental Mods and Measurements bit the dust after literally 100's of measurements. Measurements from a different kit cannot be compared to those measurements. 

post #9950 of 10873

Thought I'd throw this in here also since I took pictures of it.

 

 

Here's a dremel'd down Neutrik/Rean straight 3.5mm stereo plug I got from a past failed reterminating attempt.

The rubber parts of the cable melted while I was using the heat gun, making it non-salvageable.

 

(below) here's how it looks after a rough trim.

I had perhaps less than 200 lumens in the working position I was in, so I couldn't do any better on something so reflective. Also got some on the ground sleeve due to poor visibility.

 

(below) Comparison in size to the V-Moda cable. If you want it any slimmer, trimming off the treads would be okay. They could serve as nice anchor for heat shrink though.

As it is, I can still put the outer barrel back but it would look kind of silly.

 

(below) Fits well into the T50RP. And here's an idea of how you can right-angle it, though how to cover that would be entirely a different task of its own.

I cracked the ground contact at the bend because I bent&unbent more than once to take pictures.

 

(above) Profile of 90 degree bent Neutrik/Rean straight angle plug.

(below) Profile of V-MODA cable. Sorry the scale is completely different in the two pictures but you get an idea that they're about the same size.

 

From the looks of it you can do the same to a Neutrik right-angle plug without damaging anything other than possible aesthetics. You might even be able to beautify it. If you put more precision and effort into it than me.

 

 

post #9951 of 10873
I'm about to order a pair of these from B&H, got some questions on what I'll need to order to go with these though.

For the cord do I need to order a male to male 1/8 stereo jack for use with my computer/phone? What velour cushions can be used on these? Is the headband really that uncomfortable and if so what headbands can I use with these or does that no really matter? Will a Fiio E6 be enough for these?
post #9952 of 10873

You can order adapter or buy a v-moda cable http://v-moda.com/audio-only-cable/

I dont think Velour cushions are recommended. Yes the headband is not suitable for long listening,You can buy Sennheiser HD Headband Cushion. These headphones are easy to drive.

post #9953 of 10873

i noticed my pair has started crackling if I crank my cmoy loud.  :(  I think it's too much bass for them or the amp.  Hopefully it's the amp clipping and not blown drivers

post #9954 of 10873
Quote:
Originally Posted by onefatsurfer View Post

i noticed my pair has started crackling if I crank my cmoy loud.  :(  I think it's too much bass for them or the amp.  Hopefully it's the amp clipping and not blown drivers

I think ortho drivers can handle quite a bit more than normal drivers (like several more watts than a cmoy could provide).  I'd be impressed if you blew your drivers and could still hear.

post #9955 of 10873

After re-doing the jack on mine (to a mini xlr), I had noticed that they were sounding real good (these were modded by my brother, but don't recall what mod profile he used). Initially I didn't pay much attention to it, but then remembered last night that when I pulled the stock jack, the soldering on it looked like dull grey blobs. Looked pretty cold to me. Point being that those of you modding your phones might take a look at the solder joints on the jack, and re-do them if they look bad.

post #9956 of 10873

My main complain with these headphones is the recessed treble, I'd like to know if anyone has been able to reduce the midbass, and bring the mids more forward.  I'd also be curious if there are any mods which convert the T50-RP into an open backed headphone.  Most of the other high-end orthos are not closed headphones but still provide ample bass and impact.

post #9957 of 10873
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdogzthmn View Post

My main complain with these headphones is the recessed treble, I'd like to know if anyone has been able to reduce the midbass, and bring the mids more forward. 

 

My impressions exactly (hi again tdogzthmn).  This also describes the newest Mad Dogs. ph34r.gif  Bluemonkeyflyer, would you be able to advise what parts of your DBV mods remedy (decrease) the midbass and increase the mids & treble?  Thank you for your efforts and advice..

post #9958 of 10873
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pars View Post

...Initially I didn't pay much attention to it, but then remembered last night that when I pulled the stock jack, the soldering on it looked like dull grey blobs. Looked pretty cold to me. Point being that those of you modding your phones might take a look at the solder joints on the jack, and re-do them if they look bad.

 

Resoldering the leads can be a bit tricky, but it can definitely be done. The pads don't take tin/lead solder well (someone mentioned the pads are aluminum) and even when you get what looks like a good joint, they may not conduct and need to be redone. Having recabled a set of T50RPs, I don't think I'd do it again. Even with a cold, grey joint, they sounded good and the recable didn't make them sound better. (I went to permanent dual entry with a single quarter-inch TRS connector) 

post #9959 of 10873
Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

 

Resoldering the leads can be a bit tricky, but it can definitely be done. The pads don't take tin/lead solder well (someone mentioned the pads are aluminum) and even when you get what looks like a good joint, they may not conduct and need to be redone. Having recabled a set of T50RPs, I don't think I'd do it again. Even with a cold, grey joint, they sounded good and the recable didn't make them sound better. (I went to permanent dual entry with a single quarter-inch TRS connector) 

Resoldering does much better if you clear away the original solder and use something like Cardas quad eutectic which melts at a lower temperature.  This way you can also be better sure that your wire is touching the pad, not just floating in the solder.

 

Also, ditch the original wire.  It hated to take up any flux and tin properly.  I was going to use the stock cable until I had such a hard time tinning it.  That is when I completely recabled.

post #9960 of 10873

I used Canare mini-quad and it tinned much better than the original enamel-coated cable. But my experience was different than yours when it came to clearing away the original solder. When I cleared the pads of solder, the fresh solder beaded up like water on a duck's back. Took a bit of extra heat and some added rosin to get it to tin. I'm not sure if I was using eutectic solder or not, though.  

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