The T50RP's (DBV#3) have pretty much replaced all of my other headphones. I still use other headphones for when I don't have an amp, but for the most part, I think these things are the end game for me. They blow away everything else I've heard.
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2013 Head-Fi Summer Buying Guide (Desktop Amps & DACs)
Last edited: 7/26/13
As nicely explained by Victor in his review of the same CIEM, this is the previous flagship model from FitEar. In fact, unless you are married to the emphasised bass of the MH335DW, this would...
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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 662
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My first attempt at painting headphones. Love the color combo, but am not very satisfied with the paint job overall. I followed directions on the cans, but maybe my technique is off. I could try sanding it all away and trying again, but I'm not sure it is worth it. It definitely doesn't look bad, just doesn't look professional. At any rate, these sound as good as I have heard them. Pads are the J$ Beyer pads, that actually sounds better than I remembered (also look nicer since my Audeze pads are used and the pleather ring is peeling).
I think it was 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of paint, and 2 clear coats. I wasn't going to do the clear coats, but even after 48 hours, the paint seemed very soft. The clear coats helped immensely with the feel and hardness, but I still feel like this is a fragile paint job. Maybe I should have stayed with an enamel. I think the paint that I used was acrylic.
Oh, I tried acrylic once... it was a terrible mess. I did some clear coats which helped, but it still flaked off after some wear.
Dang. I knew I should have stayed with enamel. The paint was just so shiny, though. Oh well. Lessons learned.
I'm thinking I might try some of this copper hammertone paint I have sitting around on the spare T50rp shell. We'll see...
Hmm... it didn't turn out as well as I would have liked, but it's pretty ain't it?
This is the ugly and messy step. Rubber sealant sprayed on the inside. I did the baffles too, though forgot to take a picture.
Edited by Armaegis - 2/6/13 at 8:42am
I like it! Hides flaws nicely. Did you prime it at all? I see some black poking through here and there. I think something texturized would have hidden flaws I have on mine better (or rather an uneven coat or dust won't show up). Maybe I will try sanding mine down and re painting when I have time again.
I *should* have used primer, but didn't. For that matter, I should have disassembled the wires and sanded the whole thing first... or just go #%&! it and spray the thing.
I have no idea if this paint will stick or not, or if it'll even harden properly on plastic. It works very nicely on metal without priming at least.
Yeah, so funny thing there... I took the drivers out for my latest transplant project, so I have nothing to put back together.
Edited by Armaegis - 2/7/13 at 5:46pm
I have a pair of T50rps that my brother modded for me and which I like very much. He has another pair that I gave him to also mod.
On my first pair, I had built a cable using Mogami mini with a Neutrik RA mini connector and Neutrik 1/4". I enlarged the shell around the jack in the phone, and this had been working quite well. Lately though, I have to plug it in just right or lose sound in one or both channels. The VModa cable always works fine however.
I decided to put in a 4-pin XLR jack in the phones, and reterminate my Mogami cable in preparation for going balanced. I'm not a big fan of most of the Y-splits I've seen, which is why I didn't go for a pair of 3-pin XLRs and split the cable.
Good or bad idea? Hadn't seen anyone in this thread do anything similar, so thought I'd ask.
- Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
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