Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 658

Here's FR of an mod of one Russian guy. White is unpressed earpads, green - pressed.
Notable is flat FR above 10 kHz.

The mod is very extensive. He picks the drivers, removes stock paper, saws through metal plates, mades wooden earcups no less than 10mm thick, and does custom damping, cup volume matching and earpad matching for each driver till +-2 dB.

I still think that uber-damping is an easier way to achieve flat sound from Fostex. But to get flat FR above 10 kHz, one would have to damp within driver anyway..

 

Good idea.

 

I've had good results with a thin layer of cotton, fiberglass, cotton makeup remover pads, or a thin layer of open cell foam over the ear side of the drivers, under the Shure 840 pads' dust covers.  Experiment with type of material, thickness, and coverage area over the driver. Each will tune down the treble in varying degrees. I think I listed this among Tuning Rules of Thumb.

So I got tired of messing around and opened them one last time.  Lost the treble reflectors, took all but 1 gram of cotton out, opened the bottom ear cup port all of the way (other 3 taped over) and opened the driver port.  Finally, the bass is balanced with the treble and Holy Crap it hits harder and lower than I thought possible.  My Miracles are going to get a break for quite a while.  Thanks to bluemonkeyflyer and everyone in this thread for the excellent mod tips.
 

Do you have a link to this mod?

Is the jack into the cup considered a common problem? as my connection does not seem to be solid. It crackles occasionally and the right cup seems to go quiet.

Would a mini xlr connection be a better alternative?
Is it possible to get a right angle mini xlr? I've had no luck finding one.

vmoda has a good cable for the T50RP, but some good contact spray on the plug will also do the job.

You can also cut the little nubs off the stock cable, so it doesn't lock. That helps to keep it from developing problems, it seems.

I've been using the stock cable exclusively lately.

Don't see why a rotatable cable would prevent the problem from occurring. It would prevent a full channel loss but will still cut on random intervals (or when being moved past a spot with contact loss).

When the cable can rotate freely it's less likely to get grimey and develop surface problems. Just a rough hypothesis, all I know is that after some contact cleaner and freeing up the cable to move I've had no problems.

Also, I seal up the holes around the jack with sealant, that's another reason why I even thought of removing the nubs. I couldn't fit the cable in after sealing the holes.. Luckily, they nubs are very easy to cut off.

Edited by chrislangley4253 - 1/18/13 at 6:36pm

Right angled mini xlrs don't exist right now. You can add one to the bottom of the cup after removing the existing jack. I went dual entry. Check my galleries if interested in the mod.

Cheers guys, I've only had the headphone for under 2weeks so don't really think its dirty, I've used silicon sealant around the jack but I left the space for the lock to still work.

I am tempted with the Centrance hifi m8 so I might try a similar mod fraggler

How do you detach the metal runners?
Does anyone know where to get spares in the uk or somewhere that delivers here?

They ship dirty. You need some contact cleaner.. Maybe try some baking soda and water first.

Screws on the inside of the headband.

 

I'll try cleaning it, cheers
I meant detaching it from the cups.

Would the rsa type connection also be feasible?
Edited by jiminy - 1/19/13 at 1:01pm

 

Hmm.  Yes it would.  In fact, it might be the closest thing to a drop in solution (outside of the whole square jack in a round hole bit).  The cable would still stick out a little bit.  Would definitely test the durability of the plugs.  I'd experiment with it if I hadn't already gone dual-entry.  Haven't decided if I am going to mod the second set I got.

 

Remove the plastic cover over the central headband screw compartment in the center of the cups. I use an X-acto knife and follow the seam, prize it off. Unscrew with Phillips Head Screwdriver. Careful with the pivot tabs. Each of the 3 components comprising the attachment/pivot mechanism costs $5 to $7.50 each.