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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 651

post #9751 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

One other additional item.  If you check out this picture from the Mad Dogs video, you'll see weatherstripping applied to the ear side of the baffle.  This can be helpful to fill the gap between the baffle and the pad for a more solid seal of the headphone / pad combination.

 

 

700


Can you link the video? I haven't seen it myself.

post #9752 of 10599

WJE that's a very important thing also, great point

post #9753 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

One other additional item.  If you check out this picture from the Mad Dogs video, you'll see weatherstripping applied to the ear side of the baffle.  This can be helpful to fill the gap between the baffle and the pad for a more solid seal of the headphone / pad combination.

 

 

The baffle itself is concave, so there's almost always a 1-cm gap between the pad and the baffle when you use the flap to hold the pad in place. I've tried two-sided foam tape and weather stripping to close or fill the gap. More recently, I've simply stopped using the flap entirely and secure the pad to the baffle with either electrical tape (see photo below) or an "elastic band" I've fashioned out of an old inner tube. This way, I can get the pad to sit right against the baffle and produce a solid seal. (Mind you, if there's Dynamat and felt on the ear-side of the baffle, the convex cavity is pretty much filled and these other efforts aren't likely necessary.) 

 

700

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavid View Post

Im just curious whether you think the Silverstone foam is worth the purchase? or does it not make a HUGE difference? 

 

I've got a few mods that don't involve Silverstone or AcoustiPack Lite at all and they sound good and measure well. Have a look at BMF's incremental mod thread and you'll see he compared stock T50RPs with AcoustiPack Lite and without AcoustiPack Lite (both using 840 pads). The FR graphs and waterfall plots look very similar. Other mods (the choice of pads, the choice of "stuffing" etc.) make a far more dramatic difference.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick n View Post

You'll want to make sure it is decent double sided tape though.

3M double sided tape can be a bit pricy. I've been using this cheap double-sided tape that folks in colder climates use to secure draft-preventing film over their windows. two bucks for eighteen feet.


Edited by micmacmo - 12/21/12 at 7:51am
post #9754 of 10599

hi there,

 

can you suggest, which would be the best mod for:

 

- extreme isolation

- airy, detailed non fatiguing soundsignature

- deep spundstage, and pin point imaging

 

confused.gif

post #9755 of 10599

 


Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

 

Looking good.  Also, the T20RP headphone, doesn't include a cover over the screw hole on the cup.  If you have a piece of plastic, you can adhere it to the area, to cover it.  It will then serve as a "reflex dot" to bouce some of the upper frequency waves back to the listener.  It is a subtle change and just improves the dynamics slightly.  It does not turn the treble on these headphones into a screeching monster.  The 'reflex dot" has been addressed in previous mods performed by other users.  Some would install a furniture bumper pad directly on the middle box of the back of the driver.  Others, such as BlueMonkeyFlyer, have used a piece of glossy mazazine cover to cover all or most of the center square on the back of the driver.  You could consider trying both options to see which one you're more comfortable with.

 

I took mine a step further.  I had replaced the factory locking cable with a new cable that I built using new 3.5mm and 1/4" plugs along with wire.  However, on the latest iteration, I braided wire and bypassed the headphone jack on the ear cups completely and ran the wire up through a drilled out hole towards the bottom of the cup.  The old jack was removed from the cup, and a silicone sealer was applied.  I have to pick up a rounded piece of black plastic - typically and automotive fastener, to neatly cover up the old plug hole.  The sound really didn't change significantly with the new cable - but by bypassing the jack / plug on the cup itself, it meant one less contact point betwen the cable and the drivers that had to exist.

 

I'll get some pics of my cable / headphones posted in the next day or so as a visual.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

I believe in the reflex dot over the back of the driver, I use a 2cm diameter circle (approx 2cm, magazine cover cut using a 1 penny coin (GBP)  which is 20.32mm in diameter, applied using all purpose glue.

Wow, did not expect the reflex dot to make such a big difference!...Thanks guys

I cut out a circle out of the inside of a rubbing alchohol wipe packet... (its what i had on hand) and its completly transformed the sound. 

especially on the T20rp which dont even have plastic over the screw, i just filled it with newplast and pressed the circle on top.

Hello treble :)

 

My only problem left is the bass and mid/bass is a bit too muffled, dont know how to tackle that, i want to make it a bit tighter. Right now i have my driver covered with a layer of Micropore and craft felt on top of that, filled with newplast...2 layers of craft foam inside the cups, reflex dot and stuffed with 2 small strips of cotton, and 1 vent slot uncovered.


Edited by wavid - 12/21/12 at 2:42am
post #9756 of 10599
Quote:

Originally Posted by wavid View Post

 

My only problem left is the bass and mid/bass is a bit too muffled, dont know how to tackle that, i want to make it a bit tighter. Right now i have my driver covered with a layer of Micropore and craft felt on top of that, filled with newplast...2 layers of craft foam inside the cups, reflex dot and stuffed with 2 small strips of cotton, and 1 vent slot uncovered.

 

It sounds like you need to damp it more with cotton, try using teased apart cotton balls stuffed into the cups, approx 3-5 work best. There are better alternatives to cotton balls but it's a good start and is easy to acquire. If you haven't sealed the cup vents you should try that immediately, I prefer all four open, covered with one layer of stiff felt, no need to remove the mesh that's already on there. You can try sealing all the bass vents, using stiff/limp craft felt in 1 or 2 layers held on by glue, tape or rubber cement (BMF's favourite!) just be sure not to get any between the vent holes, or sealing all four with a 3mm gap/hole in the center botton vent. You can use any kind of tape to seal the vents, I prefer electrical tape.

 

I do use open bass vents with stiff felt overlay as said but mine are heavily damped with rite-aid cotton in my personal pair (a little more than DBV#3 to account for the different pads).

And one last thing, make sure the ear-side bass port is open, closing this can lead to muddier or too much bass, it's a little hole above or below (depending on how you mounted the baffles) the ear-side of the driver, make sure it's free of newplast, you can use a needle or toothpick to get any newplast you may have gotten in it.


Edited by eltocliousus - 12/21/12 at 6:01am
post #9757 of 10599

I also wonder, does anyone have any issues with keeping the baffles tight to the cup when there's a lot of damping inside? The screws just don't go tight enough, they tend to 'unscrew' themselves over time and loosen up, probably from overuse having opened my personal pair a few hundred times by now.

post #9758 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

Can you link the video? I haven't seen it myself.

 

In this thread are two links to videos.  One is how the stretch the Dog Padz prior to installation.  The 2nd one shows how to install the Dog Padz.  In that video, you can see the structure of the ear side of the baffle.

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/613576/mad-dog-by-mrspeakers-modified-fostex-t50rp-review/2250#post_8963512

post #9759 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

I also wonder, does anyone have any issues with keeping the baffles tight to the cup when there's a lot of damping inside? The screws just don't go tight enough, they tend to 'unscrew' themselves over time and loosen up, probably from overuse having opened my personal pair a few hundred times by now.

BMF offered this repair with super glue.

 

Also, there's this stuff: a threadlocker specifically made for plastic. (Don't use regular Loctite because it degrades plastic.) I can't find it where I live, but I corresponded with Permatex and they assured me it was safe on almost all plastics. YMMV.

post #9760 of 10599

Thanks Mo for the link to the tape.

post #9761 of 10599

Just paired mine up with the SMSL SD1955, I won't be surprised if they become the next big flavor of the month, the clarity really opens up the lower body of the O2's, great pair with the V8.1's

post #9762 of 10599

Finished building my Project Sunrise II last night (0221) and I want to thank geetarman49 and others for the recommendation and share my perception that the Project Sunrise II, in either kit form at $199 or built at $244, is clearly one of very few extraordinary values in audio. 

 

I run flac USB digital out of Samsung S3 into iBasso D10, line out into the Sunrise II then, stock cable into my basic DRV#3 mod.  The Sunrise has a much more power than needed to drive the headphones and I can't describe how thrilled I am with the amp.  So far listened mainly to Pink Floyd.

 

Now I'm in the hunt for a great value in a DAC (<$300) that will make the setup even better.

post #9763 of 10599

YES! ... another convert ... i'm happy that you're happy.

just wait until you try the sunrise with some different tubes  ... such as nos rca 12au7 cleartop, nos raytheon 5751 windmill getter, amperex 6dj8 (bugle boy) .... that's when the fun really starts & your wallet begins to cry .... but start with the rca 12au7 - you can get new/almost new 'organ pulls' at relatively low cost ...

 

try pink floyd in hi-res format.

 

i'll have some suggestions for you regarding dac, but not right now ... too tired.  are you looking for pure usb dac  or would you prefer one that can handle spdif coax/tos as well?
 

post #9764 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by geetarman49 View Post

YES! ... another convert ... i'm happy that you're happy.

just wait until you try the sunrise with some different tubes  ... such as nos rca 12au7 cleartop, nos raytheon 5751 windmill getter, amperex 6dj8 (bugle boy) .... that's when the fun really starts & your wallet begins to cry .... but start with the rca 12au7 - you can get new/almost new 'organ pulls' at relatively low cost ...

 

try pink floyd in hi-res format.

 

i'll have some suggestions for you regarding dac, but not right now ... too tired.  are you looking for pure usb dac  or would you prefer one that can handle spdif coax/tos as well?
 


Quite a few things you mentioned that I can look forward to.  I had already started shopping around for tubes and so your recommendations really help.

 

Where can I get Pink Floyd in hi-res?  The Wall in high res format would be wonderful.  Any of the others also, but I listen to The Wall about as much as all my other music combined.

 

For the DAC, at this point, I primarily need USB input to take the audio from my S3 and my PC.

 

In this regard, back in Colorado I have a very early Wadia DAC from back in the 80s. Do you know if these are any good at all compared to today's equipment?

post #9765 of 10599

geetarman49, a followup questions.  I found some of the remastered PF on Amazon.  One of the options is download MP3 for those of us who want it now, Am I correct in assuming that MP3 format would significantly degrade the music?  I personally never use MP3, just flac,

 

Dah!, of course, I just realized I can listen to samples of each of the tracks, which I will do this morning, but I would still like to know your opinion..... and if you know of even better recordings than these.

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