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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 644

post #9646 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Interesting. Where do you source carbon fiber and what sort of tool is needed for cutting?

Onlinemetals.com has you covered!  Good prices it seems and they have very basic cutting services.

post #9647 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

 

I tend to agree with Armaegis here. My most recent mods don't include any baffle dampening and I can achieve a relatively flat FR without obvious ringing.

 

Out of curiosity, if I were to put my finger lightly against the baffle, would I be able to feel a resonating baffle? 

 

Maybe not so much the resonance per se, but you'll feel vibration just from the driver excursion (the whole equal/opposite reactions thing). Slapping down plasticine and dynamat is a simple and quick solution to that. The effect on overall sound is probably minimal compared to the cup damping, but hey it's an easy thing to do so no harm no foul. 

 

I have a suspicion that the baffle dampening/stiffening/massloading/etc will result in a quicker/cleaner step response from the driver, but again this is probably minimal compared to the chamber damping, the electrical impedance damping, etc. 


Edited by Armaegis - 12/5/12 at 11:08am
post #9648 of 10627

You can get structural carbon fiber at hobby shops.

Look for ones that do RC cars and planes.

Thia stuff all adds up and we are dealing with micro level signal, driver excursion and vibration,

 

Ever take a tonearm and dampen it? You can easily kill the sound.

post #9649 of 10627
Add one to the list of thrilled T50RP mod owners. Got a "used/returned" T50RP (it was new in the box) last night (67th birthday) and today I completed the DBV#3 mods. Been listening to Pink Floyd and Supertramp flacs USB out of my S3 Samsung into an iBasso D10.and I have to say the modified T50RPs are unbelievable. It was pretty tight getting the screws in and I expect it could be easy to strip them. I have to open them up to put some holes in the stiffened felt over the driver (I forgot to do it) and when I do that I will probably cut out the shock absorber posts. I believe this will allow the cotton/fiberglass to lay better and will be easier on the screws. I don't plan to experiment with modifications but I am considering a new DAC/amp. JDS ODAC and O2 or C421 at the top of the list. Anyone know if either of these combinations would be significantly better than the D10?
post #9650 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinook9 View Post

Add one to the list of thrilled T50RP mod owners. Got a "used/returned" T50RP (it was new in the box) last night (67th birthday) and today I completed the DBV#3 mods. Been listening to Pink Floyd and Supertramp flacs USB out of my S3 Samsung into an iBasso D10.and I have to say the modified T50RPs are unbelievable. It was pretty tight getting the screws in and I expect it could be easy to strip them. I have to open them up to put some holes in the stiffened felt over the driver (I forgot to do it) and when I do that I will probably cut out the shock absorber posts. I believe this will allow the cotton/fiberglass to lay better and will be easier on the screws. I don't plan to experiment with modifications but I am considering a new DAC/amp. JDS ODAC and O2 or C421 at the top of the list. Anyone know if either of these combinations would be significantly better than the D10?

 

 

I've toyed with cutting out the shock absorber posts but it seemed like more hassle than it was worth, a common technique is to cut slits in the fiberglass/cotton and allow the posts to go through, it could be that you're using too much cotton/fiberglass too, it should be a tight fit but nothing too ridiculous, and don't forget to make your cotton as fluffy as possible!

post #9651 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

My highly modded T50RPs gave up it's last legs today after a soldering job gone bad, not my best moment, Bluemonkeyflyer kept my spirits up and in keeping good spirits, tree ornaments! Merry almost-here Christmas!

 

 

 

 

Early on in this thread, I posted some pictures on using a rear window defogger repair kit that you can purchase at an auto parts store.  The solder pads are extremely fragile and the solder used is apparently aluminum solder.  However, I did buy aluminum solder several months back, and drew back the voltage on my soldering iron so it was only using 7 or 8 watts.  It was enough to get the solder to melt properly - but, even when I used a dab of rosin, the solder still would not stick to the pads.  It was actually a bit frustrating since I had probably spent about $30.00 in supplies to try my initial "fix."  However, I had read in another location that one can use the paint that is in the defogger repair kits, as it is mixed with conductive particles.  3 or 4 light layers of the paint will make a very sufficient connection with a wire to the solder pad.  Now, if the solder pad has been hit by too much heat from the soldering iron, replacing the driver is essentially on the real way to fix the issue.  Full Compass sells the drivers for about $36.00 (each, plus shipping.)  By the time you get through that process, one could easily just purchase another pair of Fostex phones and have some spare parts to add to the collection.

post #9652 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

 

Early on in this thread, I posted some pictures on using a rear window defogger repair kit that you can purchase at an auto parts store.  The solder pads are extremely fragile and the solder used is apparently aluminum solder.  However, I did buy aluminum solder several months back, and drew back the voltage on my soldering iron so it was only using 7 or 8 watts.  It was enough to get the solder to melt properly - but, even when I used a dab of rosin, the solder still would not stick to the pads.  It was actually a bit frustrating since I had probably spent about $30.00 in supplies to try my initial "fix."  However, I had read in another location that one can use the paint that is in the defogger repair kits, as it is mixed with conductive particles.  3 or 4 light layers of the paint will make a very sufficient connection with a wire to the solder pad.  Now, if the solder pad has been hit by too much heat from the soldering iron, replacing the driver is essentially on the real way to fix the issue.  Full Compass sells the drivers for about $36.00 (each, plus shipping.)  By the time you get through that process, one could easily just purchase another pair of Fostex phones and have some spare parts to add to the collection.

 

You're right, it's easier to just start again rather than buy the drivers seperately, it was mostly the cups and re-cabling that I was most upset about, the re-cabling I've salvaged for now and I may use it in future, my cat jumped on my lap mid-solder which caused me to drop the soldering iron onto the driver, burning the driver, melting part of the baffle and ruining the cups, I also got quite a nasty burn, I'll be more safety concious the next time I whip out the soldering iron and keep my cat in another room! 

 

Atleast it was an excuse to start another personal pair from scratch, which incidentally sound better due to having the white damping paper over the back of the driver, my past pair had naked drivers. 

 


Edited by eltocliousus - 12/5/12 at 9:31pm
post #9653 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

 

 

I've toyed with cutting out the shock absorber posts but it seemed like more hassle than it was worth, a common technique is to cut slits in the fiberglass/cotton and allow the posts to go through, it could be that you're using too much cotton/fiberglass too, it should be a tight fit but nothing too ridiculous, and don't forget to make your cotton as fluffy as possible!

 

Thanks for the response! I did cut slits but I didn't do a good job and I think there is quite a bit of cotton/fiberglass on top of one or more of the posts. When I get them open I'll reevaluate my options. I don't mind a little hastle but if I'm going to do it I want to be able to get most of the post and I'm not sure how easy that is. I'll get back to work on it in later this morning. Thanks again.
post #9654 of 10627

I received two comfort headband suspension straps; one from 'onefatsurfer' and and one from 'Congo5'...Wow! They look great and the added comfort is fantastic. The headphones seem to "float" and there's no longer a "hot spot" at the top of my head.

 

The one I got from 'onfatsurfer' is just like the one on ebay with 2 rectangular pieces of pleather sewn together and elastic straps also sewn on. The one 'Congo5' made looks like two pieces of open cell foam cut into elongated ovals glued together, holes punched on the ends, and elastic hair ties looped through the holes. 

 

Both are well made, look great, and are super comfortable. From now on, I will use suspension headband straps on my modded headphones.

 

Thanks so much, 'onefatsurfer' and 'Congo5' !

 

 

700

Suspension strap by 'onefatsurfer'

 

 

700

Suspension strap by 'Congo5'

post #9655 of 10627

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinook9 View Post

Add one to the list of thrilled T50RP mod owners. Got a "used/returned" T50RP (it was new in the box) last night (67th birthday) and today I completed the DBV#3 mods. Been listening to Pink Floyd and Supertramp flacs USB out of my S3 Samsung into an iBasso D10.and I have to say the modified T50RPs are unbelievable. It was pretty tight getting the screws in and I expect it could be easy to strip them. I have to open them up to put some holes in the stiffened felt over the driver (I forgot to do it) and when I do that I will probably cut out the shock absorber posts. I believe this will allow the cotton/fiberglass to lay better and will be easier on the screws. I don't plan to experiment with modifications but I am considering a new DAC/amp. JDS ODAC and O2 or C421 at the top of the list. Anyone know if either of these combinations would be significantly better than the D10?

 

CUT EM OFF! It's so much easier to get the dampening right without those posts in the way. I just used some side-cutters. Pretty easy to get them out. Once you remove those posts you will have a much easier time screwing the baffle down ;-)

I haven't heard the D10, but I think the ODAC and o2/c421 might make a difference :) Go for the c421 if portability is more of a factor, o2 if it's not.
post #9656 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by eltocliousus View Post

.... 

 

 

Those ear pads look pretty slick.  Which brand are they, and where can you get them?  Thanks,

post #9657 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinook9 View Post

I don't plan to experiment with modifications but I am considering a new DAC/amp. JDS ODAC and O2 or C421 at the top of the list. Anyone know if either of these combinations would be significantly better than the D10?

 

While I have not heard the odac or c421, I do have the D10 and have heard many other amps in that price range. In my experience you will not see a "significant" improvement until you start moving up in budget.

post #9658 of 10627
Thanks for the replys. and . chrisangley4253: I was wondering how well side cutters would work. That was my first choice. I may also see if some type of chisel won't do a decent job also. I'm anal about these types of things and would like to cut them off neatly even with the side of the headphone. Armaegis:I don't think I want to spend a lot more on a DAC amp. I suppose the recent amp deal on Massdrop would have been the one to go for. Anyway, I'll have to give it some thought.... I will try swapping out some of the op-amps and see how it sounds. Thanks again.
post #9659 of 10627
Thanks for the replies. chrisangley4253: I was wondering how well side cutters would work. That was my first choice. I may also see if some type of chisel won't do a decent job also. I'm anal about these types of things and would like to cut them off neatly even with the side of the headphone. Armaegis:I don't think I want to spend a lot more on a DAC amp. I suppose the recent amp deal on Massdrop would have been the one to go for. Anyway, I'll have to give it some thought.... I will try swapping out some of the op-amps and see how it sounds. Thanks again.
post #9660 of 10627
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinook9 View Post

Thanks for the replies. chrisangley4253: I was wondering how well side cutters would work. That was my first choice. I may also see if some type of chisel won't do a decent job also. I'm anal about these types of things and would like to cut them off neatly even with the side of the headphone. Armaegis:I don't think I want to spend a lot more on a DAC amp. I suppose the recent amp deal on Massdrop would have been the one to go for. Anyway, I'll have to give it some thought.... I will try swapping out some of the op-amps and see how it sounds. Thanks again.

I used a Dremel cutting disk and sander attachments to remove the shock absorber posts and the dustcover around the drivers. I don't do either, anymore. Although easier to lay damping materials in the cups, it's not necessary to remove the shock absorbers to get great sound. Cutting slits in your material aligned with the shock absorber posts is a lot easier and your headphone mods remain reversible.

 

Maybe the shock absorbers' benefits outweigh their inconvenience. Decoupling the baffles from the cups may be a good thing.

 

Here's my guiding principle for modding:  "Never make irreversible mods until exhausting all reversible mods, then wait until tomorrow."

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