Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 638

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armaegis 

A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...

 

It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.

 

botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top

cool idea! Although, we'd probably want to try to strip off most of the adhesive on the foam.. or find a different type of acoustic foam entirely.

or perhaps we could use some felt on top of the pyramids on top of the acoustic foam.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armaegis 

A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...

 

It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.

 

botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top

+1

One year ago, I tried 2- and 3-layer Paxmate Plus lattices in the cup floor wells:

Many mods later...

My current DBV #3 setup:

Cup floor --> Acoustipack Lite butyl substrate (instead of Dynamat with metal overlay) --> Acoustipack Lite open cell foam  --> Paxmate/Silverstone open cell "Ladder Rungs" --> Fluffed cotton --> Fiberglass --> Stiff felt over driver --> Paper between stiff felt and driver --> Newplast --> Shure 840's

Have you tried using silverstone instead of newplast in the baffles(as you have in that photo above), with dynamat on the ear side of the cups to stiffen the housing up?  

I am in the process of making handmade velour ear pads.  I made one last night and replaced the 840 pad and could tell no difference sound-wise, but the comfort improvement is pretty high.  I have most of it figured out, just have to figure out how to make the pad easy to attach to the cup (as opposed to my current "double-sided tape" method  

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefatsurfer 

Have you tried using silverstone instead of newplast in the baffles(as you have in that photo above), with dynamat on the ear side of the cups to stiffen the housing up?  

 

I am in the process of making handmade velour ear pads.  I made one last night and replaced the 840 pad and could tell no difference sound-wise, but the comfort improvement is pretty high.  I have most of it figured out, just have to figure out how to make the pad easy to attach to the cup (as opposed to my current "double-sided tape" method  

Yes, I have. It's not memorable and I set it aside to re-visit another time. 

I'd like to see your pads when you're finished.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kalbee 

Unless the picture of the T50RP has the older pads that lacked bass.

Yup!
 

*sighs* I'm sitting here with everything, but my t50rp's.. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by kalbee 

Just wondering as I am currently looking at the T50RP photo in B&H....
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/281431-REG/Fostex_T50_RP_T50RP_Studio_Headphones.html
Yet different pads? can anyone who bought this recently confirm this? The stock pads I am used to are these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/836475-REG/Fostex_1416902601_REPLACEMENT_EAR_PADS_FOR.html
Unless the picture of the T50RP has the older pads that lacked bass.

Yeah, that picture been up there for a long time, I think, but I never zoomed in on the picture until now. Those pads are the old pads. The last set of T50RP's I bought from them was 8 weeks ago. They have the new pads, new white dampener paper, and new finish on the rails.

It's a sad moment when your each that end-game, and it's time to start enjoying the music, that's the trouble with T50RPs, it's hard to stop and enjoy them without changing them just a little bit more to see if you can improve them. Damn it BMF and Pwnm30 for getting me back into this vicious circle, .

Quote:

Originally Posted by eltocliousus 

It's a sad moment when your each that end-game, and it's time to start enjoying the music, that's the trouble with T50RPs, it's hard to stop and enjoy them without changing them just a little bit more to see if you can improve them. Damn it BMF and Pwnm30 for getting me back into this vicious circle, .

Guilty as charged!  LOL

The Never Ending Tweaking is the Fun part. Great sound is the bonus.

Cheers, Mate.

It was easy for me to end the vicious cycle when I realized that my vibration dampener that I sprayed in the cups inadvertently glued it shut 

I'm happy with the sound of mine... now it's just making them more comfortable! :P

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefatsurfer 

Have you tried using silverstone instead of newplast in the baffles(as you have in that photo above), with dynamat on the ear side of the cups to stiffen the housing up?  

 

I am in the process of making handmade velour ear pads.  I made one last night and replaced the 840 pad and could tell no difference sound-wise, but the comfort improvement is pretty high.  I have most of it figured out, just have to figure out how to make the pad easy to attach to the cup (as opposed to my current "double-sided tape" method  

I would recommend sewing on some elastic bands just slightly smaller circumference of the cups.  The right fit could create a better seal while making it easier to remove and re-attach.  I have been planning earpads for some time, but I am waiting until I master this darn sewing machine before I move on seriously with that project.  You can get elastic strips at any fabric store, and I would go there instead of a hobby store.  "By the yard" is pennies compared to pre-packaged sizing.  Ironically, I found the perfect elastic for this project in the "DIY Bra" area of the fabric shop -- which cups were we modding .  (Yes, I went there!)

^ Something like that, though black looks much nicer.

Only issue is it's very tough to sew such tight radii when the cord is pulling against you the whole time.  Especially when this is my first real project with the sewing machine LOL.  

I have a plan, just have to get my skills up so they come out looking decent.  

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrscotchguy 

 

I would recommend sewing on some elastic bands just slightly smaller circumference of the cups.  The right fit could create a better seal while making it easier to remove and re-attach.  I have been planning earpads for some time, but I am waiting until I master this darn sewing machine before I move on seriously with that project.  You can get elastic strips at any fabric store, and I would go there instead of a hobby store.  "By the yard" is pennies compared to pre-packaged sizing.  Ironically, I found the perfect elastic for this project in the "DIY Bra" area of the fabric shop -- which cups were we modding .  (Yes, I went there!)

 

 

 

^ Something like that, though black looks much nicer.

With the Shure 840 pads, I've applied 1" wide leather strips that have wrapped around the pads and adhered to the plastic cups with an adhesive.  With this method, the white stitching is covered up by the leather, and has a nice professional look, when done.  I'll post more photos in the next few days when my latest revision is done.  But, when one uses the adhesive, this should be done when one is done with their modifications and are happy with the sound.

With regards to making many mods on a pair, consider purchasing a 2nd pair.  Have one pair be your "tweaking" set, while you use the other pair.  The price is at such a point, buying two pair is almost painless.  Mainly, the best tweaks have been posted here on the forum by BMF.

Enjoy!

FWIW, I posted some Bass and Treble Tuning Tips in the Incremental Mods and Measurements thread that work "like magic" for me. See Post 191.