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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 632

post #9466 of 10570

I've been itching to mod again ever since I modded my Alessandro MS1i.  Does anyone know if the prices for the T50RP are cyclic or will it never go down again to $70?  The best deal I could find is at Front End Audio for $99.

post #9467 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacKhoun View Post

I've been itching to mod again ever since I modded my Alessandro MS1i.  Does anyone know if the prices for the T50RP are cyclic or will it never go down again to $70?  The best deal I could find is at Front End Audio for $99.
No Idea but I'll let you know that when the price was fluctuating like crazy in the States before, the T50RP was pretty consistent at $90~100 in Canada. Right now it's about $129~132, despite CAD:USD almost 1:1. Prices in Canada will always be a bit higher.
It might be the new going price :S Let's hope not though.
post #9468 of 10570

I think people might have caught on that these were popular.  Particularly since several forum members went pro with their tweaks.  I'd imagine that they bought a lot of sets.

 

I'm hoping for sub $80 again.  I would definitely get another pair.

post #9469 of 10570

Mini-XLR mod was a success!  Well if you don't count my inadvertent bass port addition redface.gif

 

 

Glamour shot

 

 

I have added a series of photos that step through the process in my personal galleries:  http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/704120/t50rp-modification/

post #9470 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Mini-XLR mod was a success!  Well if you don't count my inadvertent bass port addition redface.gif

 

 

Glamour shot

 

 

I have added a series of photos that step through the process in my personal galleries:  http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/704120/t50rp-modification/

 

Nice job! Thanks for the pictorial. 

 

What type of solder did you use and at what temperature?  Any tips on soldering technique appreciated.

post #9471 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

Nice job! Thanks for the pictorial. 

 

What type of solder did you use and at what temperature?  Any tips on soldering technique appreciated.

Thanks.  I used Cardas Quad Eutectic solder.  Unfortunately, I have no idea what temperature.  I have a Metcal SP200 (bought it off of a friend) that determines the minimum heat needed. I do know that the Cardas solder melts at a relatively low temperature and you certainly shouldn't need a lot of heat to get the solder pads hot since they are so thin.  I used normal desoldering braid to get rid of most of the giant blob of solder.  Then just a normal touch of solder to attach the new wires.  I reflowed a couple times to position the wire just right so a decent amount of heat was flowing and I saw no signs of damage happening to the plastic.  

 

One issue that might have caused people problems in the past is that I found the stock wire to be insanely hard to get solder on to.  I typically use flux to wet the tips of the wire then touch a blob of solder to it to tin.  The stock wire didn't want to take that.  Normally just about all other wires soak up the solder instantly.  When trying to solder to the mini XLR jacks, I was having a damn hard time getting a good joint.  Plus the dialectric was disintegrating.  That's when I decided to take my chances and completely rewire.  Worked beautifully.  Have no idea what was going on with the stock wire.

post #9472 of 10570

FraGGleR, that looks great. Thanks for documenting your work. 

 

I don't think I have a chair or sofa in my house that looks as comfortable as those J$ pads!

post #9473 of 10570

Hey guys, I'm looking to mod a pair of fostex t50rp's I bought a few weeks ago. They have a very neutral sound to them (little lacking in the bass) and I am looking to mod them in a way that will bring out the bass. I'm going for a more "fun" pair of cans than an accurate pair. What mods have you done that bought out the "fun" in these cans? =D

post #9474 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

I removed the cotton entirely from my mod and the sound is much more in line with what I like.  Bass is back, mids are strong, and I still have better treble than stock due to the felt and transpore (added a small reflector of transpore).  

Just curious...did you try less cotton before going with no cotton at all? When I have too much cotton/fiberglass, the sound is too bright and the bass rolls off at around 100 Hz. When I remove all cotton/fiberglass, I usually have too much bass, a 5 dB lower midrange hump, and too little lower treble from ~ 2 kHz to 4 kHz with the biggest dip of around 5 dB at 3 kHz. Finding the "sweet spot" for the amount of cotton/fiberglass smooths out the FR...IME....YMMV.

post #9475 of 10570

I went straight to no cotton.  I am going to play with it some more.  I don't think there is too much bass, but just comparing to my LCD-2, I think I can do better with a more even sound.  

post #9476 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

I went straight to no cotton.  I am going to play with it some more.  I don't think there is too much bass, but just comparing to my LCD-2, I think I can do better with a more even sound.  

I have just a little bit of cotton in mine right now and I prefer it to no cotton. It has a little less bass, but It seems like there is a tad bit more treble there, so I was looking for a slightly more balanced sound and this helped.

post #9477 of 10570

Out of curiosity, does anyone have a extra set of baffles laying around they would like to sell to me?  It seems like Full Compass has any replacement parts you could ask for, with the exception of the baffles.

 

Thanks

post #9478 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrscotchguy View Post

Out of curiosity, does anyone have a extra set of baffles laying around they would like to sell to me?  It seems like Full Compass has any replacement parts you could ask for, with the exception of the baffles.

 

Thanks

 

I may have a set baffles and cups for you in a week or two. If you don't find any between now and then, PM me. 

post #9479 of 10570

I will be using the drivers from the  Fostex t50RPs to make a pair of headphones that I will be making and if all goes well I will be making them and selling them for 250 on kickstarter . I will be 3d printing new cases for them ass well as a head band. What suggestions do you have to make them the best that they can be. 

post #9480 of 10570

You will have to do quite a bit of tuning since they will be plastic.  This whole thread deals with the problems of the plastic enclosure.  Maybe some of the more experienced modders can go into more details for you as far as open vs semi-open vs closed.   Good luck!  The 3D printer I have access too is communal and ridiculously slow.  I don't know if I can even print one set much less many.  Of course if you are going Kickstarter, you can ask for enough money to get a better 3D printer.

 

I assume some metal will be used as well?  Very interested in what you come up with.  I still have hopes routing cups out of wood once my community workshop repairs it's CNC router.

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