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post #9391 of 10613

I ordered several boxes of Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton from riteaidonlinestore.com 3 days ago. Today, I opened my package, and to my HORROR!, found 10 boxes of Rite Aid First Aid Rolled Cotton!  YIKES!!  First Aid Rolled Cotton is what is available in their stores and it is NOT the same as Natural Absorbent Cotton.

 

First Aid Rolled Cotton is densely packed and non-uniform in its layering. It does not work like "The Good Stuff."

 

Natural Absorbent Cotton is finely layered and super fluffy which is what is needed for Best performance. 

 

I contacted customer service and they said they sent the wrong item. They will re-send the correct product when it's back in stock....supposedly.  We'll see...

 

To their credit, they told me to keep the First Aid Rolled Cotton. I will donate it our veterinary animal hospital.

 

PS:  This is what you want: 

 

Rite Aid Online Store Item Number:  0031106

Rite Aid Online Store Skew (?) Number: B00467XRYO

post #9392 of 10613
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Rite Aid Online Store Skew (?) Number: B00467XRYO

I never really thought about it since it was a commonly used term in my business classes, but it really does sound like the word "skew".

 

SKU is a stock keeping unit, which is used to identify each unique product in a business.

post #9393 of 10613
LOL First Aid Rolled Cotton will SKU the FR SPL, SS, SQ, and PRaT compared to "The Good Stuff."
post #9394 of 10613

yes also adding to the FF with the MM and excessive CR ( with possible SS )to achieve proper FR  which is inverse to the final LTEP. So BB.

 

 

 

FF- Frustration Factor

MM- Modding Materials

CR- Constant Reopening

SS- Stripped Screws

FR- Frequency Response

LTEP- Long Term Enjoyment Potential

BB- Buyer beware


Edited by nick n - 10/18/12 at 10:01pm
post #9395 of 10613
Let's not forget that all the MM used to attain desired FR through TE will ultimately raise the FC, so even the said IC of ~$75-$100 will never really be so. CR can also cause GG, increased FF or MH to fix.


MM- Modding Materials
FR- Frequency Response
TE- Trial & Error
FC- Final Cost
IC- Initial Cost
CR- Constant Reopening
GG- Good Game (read: Game Over)
FF- Frustration Factor
MH- Major Headache

I tried tongue.gif
post #9396 of 10613

"These headphones are too loose and won't stay put." If that's the case, here are 3 "fixes."

 

1. If you make too many tuning cycles, the threads will eventually strip inside "Connector B" - the part that holds the rails to the headband with a single large screw. When this happens the headphones will not stay put and won't clamp at the same pressure as when you originally tuned them. This can occur slowly and you may not notice that the SQ is deteriorating. It can happen suddenly and the headphone falls off your head. There's a work-around using a 1 cm length of plastic coated wire tie - the kind used for closing bread bags.  Fold it in half and place one end inside the compartment. The other side drapes over the outside at the 6 o'clock position.This works pretty well unless the threads are completely gone.

 

 

 

Connector B with a bread tie

 

I think it works better to reposition this bread tie 180 degrees so the outside of the tie is on the opposite side of this Connector B. Plastic covered wire ties work better than those covered with paper.

 

OR

 

2. I'm working on a super glue fix similar to what works great for re-tapping the cup threads. Connector B's thread compartment, however, is much bigger than the cup thread compartments. Cup thread compartments filled/tamped/ with a paperclip/filled with super glue cure in 24 hours. Then drill them out with a 2mm (1/16") drill bit and the tiny screws will self-tap new threads in the remaining super glue that bonded with the compartment walls and floor. This method must be broken down across 3 or 4 days for Connector B. Fill Connector B's thread compartment by only 1/3 every 24 hours. By 96 hours you can drill with a bit no larger than the stock screw or use a tap and die kit to tap new threads. 

 

I have not tried super glue "activator" that accelerates super glue curing. I'm going to order some from Home Depot Online and give it a try. Filling the compartment with super glue by thirds and using the activator between applications may speed the process up so the "fix" is completed within minutes instead of days.

 

NOTE: In order for Connector B to properly seat, flush, with the headband receiver, the new threads must be tapped exactly perpendicular to the horizontal plane.

 

OR

 

3. You can order a new Connector B at fullcompass.com  currently for $5.32 each.

 

 If the link does not work, go the Full Compass web site and search:  Fostex 1412000201 CONNECTOR B

OUR PART #  1412000201

 

 

Connector B is #5 in the list.

 


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 10/22/12 at 5:03am
post #9397 of 10613
Using the bread tie fix, do you still screw it with the wire or just the plastic part?
post #9398 of 10613
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgray91 View Post

Using the bread tie fix, do you still screw it with the wire or just the plastic part?

You need the wire and the plastic so don't strip off the plastic (or paper) covering. It takes a little force to seat Connector B into the headband receiver. Angle the top of the thread compartment to enter the receiver first and then push at the bottom to force the bread tie inside and fully seat Connector B. 


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 10/19/12 at 11:25am
post #9399 of 10613
Oh okay. Thanks.
post #9400 of 10613

Great!

post #9401 of 10613

Just ordered the T50RP today at a good price.  I have read conflicting thoughts on whether these are easy or hard to drive?  Now all I need is an amp, rated at 50 ohms I suppose a solid state amp is called for.  My question is what amps are you all using that allows the T50 to show what it can do. Of course I plan on modding these and will be using a Schiit Bifrost.  Thanks in advance.

post #9402 of 10613
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubes View Post

Just ordered the T50RP today at a good price.  I have read conflicting thoughts on whether these are easy or hard to drive?  Now all I need is an amp, rated at 50 ohms I suppose a solid state amp is called for.  My question is what amps are you all using that allows the T50 to show what it can do. Of course I plan on modding these and will be using a Schiit Bifrost.  Thanks in advance.

I use a CEntrance Dacmini with the1 ohm mod, MacBook Pro, and lossless files. Sounds Great to me with modded T50RPs, LCD2s, Shure SE-535, and Etymotic ER4P/S. Michael Goodman and crew provide fast and excellent customer service. I have no conflicts of interest. I'm just a guy who likes this setup.
Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 10/19/12 at 4:04pm
post #9403 of 10613

Hi BMF, thanks for the reply, I've been trying to read through some of the data you've compiled for the T50RP mods and I have to tell you I'm a little intimidated but at the same time very impressed with the work you've done.  I wish there was a simple tutorial laying out the steps with pictures for the easiest methods for us non-techy types.  Thanks again.

 

Phill

post #9404 of 10613

Did some messing around with my T50rp. Added some sparkle in the treble but killed the bass, oops. Guess I'll open them back up tomorrow and try again tongue.gif

post #9405 of 10613

I wanted to get the beyer velour pads, which ones fit the t50rp's again, was it the dt250 or dt990 versions?
 

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