Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 627

Quote:

Originally Posted by micrors4 

I don't mind if they leak a little, but I usually do most of my listening in a quiet library so I just don't want them to be as bad as fully open-back headphone, many others have there ibuds blaring so if it doesn't leak more then those I will be fine.

Mine don't leak much at all. I have acoustic foam blocking the vents from the inside and no electrical tape on the outside. If I play music at my normal listening volume and place the ear pads on my leg to create a seal, I can't hear my music.

Quote:

Originally Posted by micrors4 

I use both a laptop and an ipod depending on where I am which was why I was looking at potentially getting a fiio e7.

The Fiio E17 seems like an ideal device for you.  It is compact, can amp your iPod through a LOD, can get you better sound out of your laptop via the DAC, is in your price range, and is well regarded in that range.  Again, I have not used one, but after a lot of researching, if I went to a portable rig, it is at the top of my short list.  Will it be powerful like an O2 (amp only, quite powerful, and is still quite compact)?  No.  Will you get the max out of your T50rp's?  Maybe?  I don't know if we know what the max is out of these headphones.  This is a hobby of diminishing returns.  I think it should sound quite good, and this would be a great place to start your journey into Headfi.

I ordered several boxes of Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton from riteaidonlinestore.com 3 days ago. Today, I opened my package, and to my HORROR!, found 10 boxes of Rite Aid First Aid Rolled Cotton!  YIKES!!  First Aid Rolled Cotton is what is available in their stores and it is NOT the same as Natural Absorbent Cotton.

First Aid Rolled Cotton is densely packed and non-uniform in its layering. It does not work like "The Good Stuff."

Natural Absorbent Cotton is finely layered and super fluffy which is what is needed for Best performance. 

I contacted customer service and they said they sent the wrong item. They will re-send the correct product when it's back in stock....supposedly.  We'll see...

To their credit, they told me to keep the First Aid Rolled Cotton. I will donate it our veterinary animal hospital.

PS:  This is what you want: 

Rite Aid Online Store Item Number:  0031106

Rite Aid Online Store Skew (?) Number: B00467XRYO

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer 

Rite Aid Online Store Skew (?) Number: B00467XRYO

I never really thought about it since it was a commonly used term in my business classes, but it really does sound like the word "skew".

SKU is a stock keeping unit, which is used to identify each unique product in a business.

yes also adding to the FF with the MM and excessive CR ( with possible SS )to achieve proper FR  which is inverse to the final LTEP. So BB.

FF- Frustration Factor

MM- Modding Materials

CR- Constant Reopening

SS- Stripped Screws

FR- Frequency Response

LTEP- Long Term Enjoyment Potential

BB- Buyer beware

"These headphones are too loose and won't stay put." If that's the case, here are 3 "fixes."

1. If you make too many tuning cycles, the threads will eventually strip inside "Connector B" - the part that holds the rails to the headband with a single large screw. When this happens the headphones will not stay put and won't clamp at the same pressure as when you originally tuned them. This can occur slowly and you may not notice that the SQ is deteriorating. It can happen suddenly and the headphone falls off your head. There's a work-around using a 1 cm length of plastic coated wire tie - the kind used for closing bread bags.  Fold it in half and place one end inside the compartment. The other side drapes over the outside at the 6 o'clock position.This works pretty well unless the threads are completely gone.

Connector B with a bread tie

I think it works better to reposition this bread tie 180 degrees so the outside of the tie is on the opposite side of this Connector B. Plastic covered wire ties work better than those covered with paper.

OR

2. I'm working on a super glue fix similar to what works great for re-tapping the cup threads. Connector B's thread compartment, however, is much bigger than the cup thread compartments. Cup thread compartments filled/tamped/ with a paperclip/filled with super glue cure in 24 hours. Then drill them out with a 2mm (1/16") drill bit and the tiny screws will self-tap new threads in the remaining super glue that bonded with the compartment walls and floor. This method must be broken down across 3 or 4 days for Connector B. Fill Connector B's thread compartment by only 1/3 every 24 hours. By 96 hours you can drill with a bit no larger than the stock screw or use a tap and die kit to tap new threads. 

I have not tried super glue "activator" that accelerates super glue curing. I'm going to order some from Home Depot Online and give it a try. Filling the compartment with super glue by thirds and using the activator between applications may speed the process up so the "fix" is completed within minutes instead of days.

NOTE: In order for Connector B to properly seat, flush, with the headband receiver, the new threads must be tapped exactly perpendicular to the horizontal plane.

OR

3. You can order a new Connector B at fullcompass.com  currently for $5.32 each.

 If the link does not work, go the Full Compass web site and search:  Fostex 1412000201 CONNECTOR B

OUR PART #  1412000201

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgray91 

Using the bread tie fix, do you still screw it with the wire or just the plastic part?

You need the wire and the plastic so don't strip off the plastic (or paper) covering. It takes a little force to seat Connector B into the headband receiver. Angle the top of the thread compartment to enter the receiver first and then push at the bottom to force the bread tie inside and fully seat Connector B. 

Great!

Just ordered the T50RP today at a good price.  I have read conflicting thoughts on whether these are easy or hard to drive?  Now all I need is an amp, rated at 50 ohms I suppose a solid state amp is called for.  My question is what amps are you all using that allows the T50 to show what it can do. Of course I plan on modding these and will be using a Schiit Bifrost.  Thanks in advance.

Hi BMF, thanks for the reply, I've been trying to read through some of the data you've compiled for the T50RP mods and I have to tell you I'm a little intimidated but at the same time very impressed with the work you've done.  I wish there was a simple tutorial laying out the steps with pictures for the easiest methods for us non-techy types.  Thanks again.

Phill