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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 598

post #8956 of 10820

will this fit the t50rp headband?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Headband-Cushion-Comfort-pad-fit-GRADO-SR60-i-SR80-i-SR125-i-SR225-i-Headphones-/190702643884?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item2c66c36aac&_uhb=1

post #8957 of 10820

That looks like the Beyer replacement pad. I have one of these and no it does not fit around the T50. Sorry.

post #8958 of 10820

dang, i guess ill just use my usual cushion

post #8959 of 10820

Guess that's exactly what I made but muuuuuuuuch nicer looking lol.

 

EDIT: It says the dimensions are Overall Length x Width: 205 x 98mm (8"x3.9")

Considering what I made is 66mm wide, wouldn't it technically work?

T50RP headbands have almost same width throughout too.


Edited by kalbee - 7/25/12 at 11:06pm
post #8960 of 10820

Started re-modding my cans. Got all the needed materials, particularly melamine foam and polyfill, I have lots of other stuff left over. Hopefully they'll end up less heavy than before. I have went real excessive on plasticine last time, I did it flush not with the baffle ribs, but with driver itself. It's some pain scraping it out now, I intend to replace all the plasticine with dynamat now. Plus some more stuff with Helmholz resonators.

post #8961 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by sluker View Post

That looks like the Beyer replacement pad. I have one of these and no it does not fit around the T50. Sorry.

 

There were actually users in this thread that did get that headband to work. All it took was trimming some of the rubber from either side of the original headband. After all, it is just a metal band running through the middle making it possible to trim material from either side. Thanks for the link though, I might need to buy another of these pads. I have one on my Grado's and love it. I still don't love the headband on my Fostexes, even after gluing a leather strap to them.

post #8962 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalbee View Post

 

P.S. not the right forum to do ask this but, is there any reason to braiding cables? Aren't you just increasing the length of the cables, resulting in (very minor) increased resistance?

 

Sorry for the late response to this, but there is no reason to braid other than aesthetics, for me at least. At some point there is some benefit of interference canceling out, but I doubt it makes any difference at all in this application. I could have just put the two twisted wires in a single jacket and joined them with the other channel at the Y-split into an even larger jacket to the plug, but I wanted to try something different. I have done it both ways an although this was more of a pain, I like how it looks.

post #8963 of 10820

I have seen people using H580 replacement headbands glued to their t50rp's, perhaps that would work? 

 

I ordered one because it looked comfortable, just waiting for the actual headphones to get here along with the band. ^^

post #8964 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalHealth30 View Post

I have seen people using H580 replacement headbands glued to their t50rp's, perhaps that would work? 

 

I ordered one because it looked comfortable, just waiting for the actual headphones to get here along with the band. ^^


that would work as well, and it is comfortable to boot! but i find it bulky so i don't want to use it. also, even with glued properly, the foam headbands still falls off... you can also use two to three layers of paxmate as well.

post #8965 of 10820

sorry for double post but i wonder if this is a suitable replacement for accoustipack/silverstone foam

 

http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/view+classifieds/id/4018313/AERO+TAPE+SELF-ADHESIVE+INSULATION+FOAM+TAPE+1/8%22+X+2%22+X+30+FT?referralKeywords=SELF+ADHESIVE&event=Search+Ranking,Position,1-16,16#imageGallery

 

we dont have those locally and this is the best that i can find, not sure if it really is foam though!

post #8966 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyaems View Post

sorry for double post but i wonder if this is a suitable replacement for accoustipack/silverstone foam

 

http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/view+classifieds/id/4018313/AERO+TAPE+SELF-ADHESIVE+INSULATION+FOAM+TAPE+1/8%22+X+2%22+X+30+FT?referralKeywords=SELF+ADHESIVE&event=Search+Ranking,Position,1-16,16#imageGallery

 

we dont have those locally and this is the best that i can find, not sure if it really is foam though!

 

No, that's closed cell foam. I have not tried this particular brand but I have tried other brands of closed cell foam without success. Maybe it will work for you, though.

 

Acoustipack Lite is 2 mm open cell foam over a 2 mm butyl substrate. Silverstone/Paxmate Plus are 4 mm open cell foam with a self-adhesive substrate.

post #8967 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Acoustipack Lite is 2 mm open cell foam over a 2 mm butyl substrate.

 

Did you ever try to sand off the AP lite acoustic foam(that's meant to attenuate computer fans whine, far from ideal FR for our use) and only keep that "acoustic barrier"? It does wonders in the yamies happy_face1.gif

post #8968 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post

 

Did you ever try to sand off the AP lite acoustic foam(that's meant to attenuate computer fans whine, far from ideal FR for our use) and only keep that "acoustic barrier"? It does wonders in the yamies happy_face1.gif

 

No, PM sent.

post #8969 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

I finally pulled the cable off the driver on one of my T50rp's after opening them a milliion times.  Anyone have any tips on soldering the stock lead back onto the driver tab?  Seems it might not be a simple solder job? 

If someone posts some useul tips or a link to another post (I'm sure it's been explained before) I'll add it to the wiki. 

A bit late in reading this but I suggest NOT leaving the solder in place, which i think can increase the chance of a cold solder joint (weak and/or non conducting).

I have popped a couple in my day and I just use a small solder wick to absorb the old stuff, then have a very fine 60/40 rosin core which I wet the tip of the iron with then apply some to the pad, then insert the cable quickly, still applying heat.

Be quick as you can to avoid melting the base material.
post #8970 of 10820

Well, this is unfortunate.  Just got a pair in 15 minutes ago, and the right driver keeps going in and out.

What's even more unfortunate is customer service for where I ordered won't be open until Monday.


Edited by Saoshyant - 7/27/12 at 1:55pm
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