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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 595

post #8911 of 10599

Since you already done your mod, I don't think it'll be possible asking a guide hoe to do it, but I doubt it'll be much difference from the usual dual non-detachable mod. But I was thinking doing a dual mono 3.5mm cable and terminate at the end with 3.5mm? Since  don't think the guy selling the cables have those xlr plugs. Or does doing xlr ends have any advantage from using normal 3.5mm mono?

 

I know you want to help, but I seriously don't understand what you just said(though I do need to read this thread more often), especially the 'leads'(What is that?)

post #8912 of 10599

I finally pulled the cable off the driver on one of my T50rp's after opening them a milliion times.  Anyone have any tips on soldering the stock lead back onto the driver tab?  Seems it might not be a simple solder job? 

 

If someone posts some useul tips or a link to another post (I'm sure it's been explained before) I'll add it to the wiki. 

post #8913 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphidz View Post

Since you already done your mod, I don't think it'll be possible asking a guide hoe to do it, but I doubt it'll be much difference from the usual dual non-detachable mod. But I was thinking doing a dual mono 3.5mm cable and terminate at the end with 3.5mm? Since  don't think the guy selling the cables have those xlr plugs. Or does doing xlr ends have any advantage from using normal 3.5mm mono?

 

I know you want to help, but I seriously don't understand what you just said(though I do need to read this thread more often), especially the 'leads'(What is that?)

Sorry, I should probably have taken pictures of the mod, I will do that for the next pair (I am doing this for a couple of friends),

The contact pads are where the cable wires are soldered to the left and right contacts for each of the drivers, Every T50 driver has a red and black cable soldered to the "Hot" and "Ground" contact, respectively. My suggestion is that instead of de-soldering the existing cables you cut them with about 1 to 2 inches of cable remaining soldered to the pad (this would be a lead). You can then solder your cable to the end of the lead and cover with heat shrink.

 

The only benefit to 4 pin mini xlr vs. the 3.5 mm is that the xlr's are locking. For me personally it is also that I can interchange cables with the LCD-2.

 

Let me know if that makes more sense.

post #8914 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

I finally pulled the cable off the driver on one of my T50rp's after opening them a milliion times.  Anyone have any tips on soldering the stock lead back onto the driver tab?  Seems it might not be a simple solder job? 

 

If someone posts some useul tips or a link to another post (I'm sure it's been explained before) I'll add it to the wiki. 

 

I did this a while back, it is a PITA. I tried WJE's method of using the rear windshield defroster kit but it did not work for me because when the solder came off the pad it took the ceramic conducting paint with it.

 

So what I did was:

  • Using an exacto knife or razor blade to peal back a small piece (1mm is sufficient) of the layer of plastic covering the contact.
  • insert a small strip of conducting material (I used copper tape i had, the kind used to insulate apple's 30 pin connector, but you could use anything conductive, even some copper strands from a small gauge cable)
  • Crazy glue your conductive strip to the pad leaving a portion clean to accept solder
  • solder the new lead/cable to the conductive strip.
  • Test to see if there is asignal
  • Lastly apply several drops of crazy glue/epoxy over the portion you inserted below the plastic top layer on the pad

 

Let me know if this makes sense.

post #8915 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

I finally pulled the cable off the driver on one of my T50rp's after opening them a milliion times.  Anyone have any tips on soldering the stock lead back onto the driver tab?  Seems it might not be a simple solder job? 

 

If someone posts some useul tips or a link to another post (I'm sure it's been explained before) I'll add it to the wiki. 

 

I've resoldered the cables on my T50s several times. I've had my best success leaving the original solder in place. I tin the wire (if you strip a new lead from the original wire, the enamel needs to be removed from the strands first. I just heat a blob of solder on the tip of my iron and run the  wire lead in it until the wire takes up the solder. This can take a few attempts.). Then I heat up the original solder on the pad and the wire at the same time. When the solder on the pad melts, I embed the wire into it.

 

I have my iron at 300 C and have resoldered my right pad no fewer than five times with no problems. No scorching or anything.

 

I did have trouble resoldering the left pad though. I'm not sure what was different. I might have removed some of the original solder. In any case, I had to resolder the joint several times. The joint looked fine - nice and shiny - but it just didn't conduct. (No sound from driver. No current measured by my DMM.) So I just reheated the solder and retested until it final worked. 


Edited by micmacmo - 7/24/12 at 1:39pm
post #8916 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by sluker View Post

Sorry, I should probably have taken pictures of the mod, I will do that for the next pair (I am doing this for a couple of friends),

The contact pads are where the cable wires are soldered to the left and right contacts for each of the drivers, Every T50 driver has a red and black cable soldered to the "Hot" and "Ground" contact, respectively. My suggestion is that instead of de-soldering the existing cables you cut them with about 1 to 2 inches of cable remaining soldered to the pad (this would be a lead). You can then solder your cable to the end of the lead and cover with heat shrink.

 

The only benefit to 4 pin mini xlr vs. the 3.5 mm is that the xlr's are locking. For me personally it is also that I can interchange cables with the LCD-2.

 

Let me know if that makes more sense.

 

Thanks. I can visualize what you are saying, but I'll search for the pictures in the thread for a clearer view.

 

I'll try to see if the guy can provide me mini xlr, if not then 3.5mm should do just fine.

 

I'll probably just wait for your tutorial then

post #8917 of 10599

I just posted this to the portable rig thread so I thought I would share it here as well.

I just did these for a friend. I wanted to do a dual entry mod as well but this just looks and feels so right.

And the sound is not too bad either, even without an amp these little nano's sound pretty good.

 

 

1000

post #8918 of 10599

I always get a good smirk inside when I see rigs like this ^ . Very nice for what it offers :) 

 

-M

post #8919 of 10599

Have anyone tried melamine foam/sponge inside the cups? I got the idea from reading maverickronin's post somewhere. I just did it yesterday and I find it quite good. I'll take notes and provide some of the songs I use. But from the last documented changes I made to yesterday, I have a few undocumented changes and didn't take notes of the mostly positive changes, so that might be a wee bit confusing for other people not me. Most probably I'll compare it with something stock, but the chance of other people here have either an Alessandro MS1i, JVC FXT90 IEM, Sony MDR-7550 IEM or a Koss KDE250 is slim to none.

 

Preliminary impressions with what I did with melamine foam:

soundstage seems to increase in breadth and width; treble seems airy but without harshness from what I can tell; in certain ways of placing the foam, bass increases  quite dramatically and slightly deepens; mids is slightly recessed compared to the treble and bass.

 

Of course without lining out how I set up my T50RP this is almost useless, but I'll get to it once I've clocked in more time with this new set up with melamine foam, if I don't change anything else that is.

post #8920 of 10599
Quote:

1000


A FiiO E5 is about the same size, could be fit on there somewhere as well I bet.  Really cool

post #8921 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphidz View Post

Got my T50RP a few weeks ago and I'm loving it! One problem though is that the terminates with a 6.3mm jack. Therefore I want to either reterminate or recable them altogether. I have found a person who could make the cables but I have to mode it myself.

 

So I was thinking, how about doing a dual sided detachable mod? Has anybody done that and is it more practical then the usual one sided mod(detachable@non-detachable) and the dual non-detachable mod? The only benefit from doing this mod is that I can change the cable if problems come up or just want to try another cable or cable style

 

V-Moda replacement cable, works perfect.

 

400

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

I finally pulled the cable off the driver on one of my T50rp's after opening them a milliion times.  Anyone have any tips on soldering the stock lead back onto the driver tab?  Seems it might not be a simple solder job? 

 

If someone posts some useul tips or a link to another post (I'm sure it's been explained before) I'll add it to the wiki. 

 

I've done this twice, and it is indeed a pita. I used micmacmo's method of leaving the existing solder in place, tinning the wire, and then attaching the tinned wire to the existing solder. My problems I believe stemmed from the fact that my solder, and the T50 solder werent the same stuff. I'm not real sure what type of solder is on the T50, but I think for best results tinning the wire with the same type of solder will make the job easier.

post #8922 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by sluker View Post

I use dual entry with leads terminated in 4 pin mini xlr's.

This allows me to interchange the DIY or purchased cables I have (I also terminate my magnum builds the same way and the LCD-2 is already like that) depending on desktop, portable or just mood.

 

I would recommend that you retain the existing leads on the drivers and solder your leads/cable to those leads instead of the contact pads (which are laminated). It is a PITA go get solder onto the contact pads of the T50 drivers.

 

 

 

1000

 

What did you make that headband out of?

I really like it!

post #8923 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwnm30rdi3 View Post

 

What did you make that headband out of?

I really like it!

Thanks,

It's the old belt + iron-on patch mod  bigsmile_face.gif, with the sennheiser 600 headband pads. 

post #8924 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

 

V-Moda replacement cable, works perfect.

 

400

 

 

Yeah, I read that this cable is commonly said throughout the thread, but you know how it feels to want to mod your T50RP right?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sluker View Post

Thanks,

It's the old belt + iron-on patch mod  bigsmile_face.gif, with the sennheiser 600 headband pads. 

 

 

Your 600 is crying LOL

post #8925 of 10599
Quote:

 

 

 

Your 600 is crying LOL

Never owned a 600. You can buy the heafband for $8.50 each.

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