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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 594

post #8896 of 10599

Very cool paint job!  The cover doesn't do anything anyways, so don't worry about damaging it or just throwing it away. 

post #8897 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

Very cool paint job!  The cover doesn't do anything anyways, so don't worry about damaging it or just throwing it away. 

 

Thank you! I wish I had another pair of headphones to experiment with. Maybe I'll try out some custom airbrushing with my next set?

post #8898 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwnm30rdi3 View Post

Just finished the RastaPants 2 Version 1.2 modifications.
Also did some re-wiring with Mogami 2534 Gold. Soldered directly onto the solder pads at 500 degrees fahrenheit with 60/40 Rosin Core Solder.
Oh... and a new paint job :O

They sound incredible! biggrin.gif








this is so uber cool. i'm jelly of your artistic ability.
post #8899 of 10599
@pwnm30rdi3 your Bondo artistry is impressive and your recable is immaculate. Nice job!
post #8900 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by RexAeterna View Post


this is so uber cool. i'm jelly of your artistic ability.

 

Thank you! I would love for more people to try this out with their phones!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

@pwnm30rdi3 your Bondo artistry is impressive and your recable is immaculate. Nice job!

 

I appreciate the comments! I have done quite a bit of bondo work on cars haha! 

post #8901 of 10599

lazy sunday morning comment: I still like mine totally stock ;-)

post #8902 of 10599

I can't get these to be comfortable.   With both the stock pads and 840 pads, too much pressure is pushing on my ears.  I will admit my ears stick out pretty far from my head. :dumbo: Putting on just the 840 pad itself, my ear pushes past the fabric backing.  

 

Any solutions to this?  

 

I tried wearing the headphones with the 840 pads over the stock pads and it still bothers me.  It might be that fabric on the 840 pads in that case.  But if I remove the fabric backing of the 840 pads and install them on the headphones, my ears would hit the headphones themselves.  

post #8903 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjswee View Post

I can't get these to be comfortable.   With both the stock pads and 840 pads, too much pressure is pushing on my ears.  I will admit my ears stick out pretty far from my head. :dumbo: Putting on just the 840 pad itself, my ear pushes past the fabric backing.  

 

Any solutions to this?  

 

I tried wearing the headphones with the 840 pads over the stock pads and it still bothers me.  It might be that fabric on the 840 pads in that case.  But if I remove the fabric backing of the 840 pads and install them on the headphones, my ears would hit the headphones themselves.  


x 2  ... stock isn't bad for me, but once modded & with the 840 pads, my ears feel constant pressure - might be caused by the dynamat + felt mod on the baffle which limits the earside space a bit.  i'm going to try 003 pads next.

post #8904 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjswee View Post

I can't get these to be comfortable.   With both the stock pads and 840 pads, too much pressure is pushing on my ears.  I will admit my ears stick out pretty far from my head. :dumbo: Putting on just the 840 pad itself, my ear pushes past the fabric backing.  

 

Any solutions to this?  

 

I tried wearing the headphones with the 840 pads over the stock pads and it still bothers me.  It might be that fabric on the 840 pads in that case.  But if I remove the fabric backing of the 840 pads and install them on the headphones, my ears would hit the headphones themselves.  

I find HM5/FA-003 pads to be much more comfortable than 840 pads. I've also bent the headband to the "egg" shape and applied 2 layers of akasa underneath. They are quite comfortable and have a nice seal.

post #8905 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjswee View Post

I can't get these to be comfortable.   With both the stock pads and 840 pads, too much pressure is pushing on my ears.  I will admit my ears stick out pretty far from my head. :dumbo: Putting on just the 840 pad itself, my ear pushes past the fabric backing.  

 

Any solutions to this?  

 

I tried wearing the headphones with the 840 pads over the stock pads and it still bothers me.  It might be that fabric on the 840 pads in that case.  But if I remove the fabric backing of the 840 pads and install them on the headphones, my ears would hit the headphones themselves.  

 

Got your solution, put the stock pads on top of the shure srh84- pads, then put cotton in slits of the shure srh840, "Boom", better comfort and a better sound stage.
post #8906 of 10599

At last, I actually made progress with my t50rp increasing its bass response!

 

I really want to bump up the bass as far as I could so that it is easier to make my preferred bass:treble ratio. So far, what I did are the following:

 

Paxmate everything inside the cups, its supposedly on the cup wells only but I'm kinda lazy removing them and I feel I will only throw them away once removed which is a waste since I only have limited supply of Paxmate here. No one sells similar material locally, even computer stores. There is also a small vent using a electrical tape approximately 1mm x 3mm for the cup vent. stock felt > electrical tape with small notch > paxmate

700

 

Masking tape! Yes, masking tape instead of transpore tape for making the thick Creatology felt in place. I've noticed that whenever I use transpore tape, it doesn't completely stick to the plastic part around the driver so that probably why i really don't get any bass when i put a felt for the first time. I think if I make the felt area covered with more masking tape, the bass response increases as well, but I never tried it. The small bass port is at the other side thats why it looks like everything is covered with masking tape. I used masking tape on top of the electrical tape with the bass port to make sure the electrical tape stays where it is supposed to stay. Also, Plasticine on the baffles.
700

 

Masking tape for temporarily sealing the cups.

700

 

Headband "suspender" for more comfort. Sorry for the lack of term.

700

 

I also put headphone pads like this, only smaller inside the FA003 pads for more bass impact and body. I think this helped me increase the bass body and slam by alot. I forgot to take a picture of this, maybe later when I get home as I am typing this in the office /flex

700

Not so finished product because I never put any cotton inside the cups, thats why I am getting alot of bass for now.

700

 

 

My unfinished t50rp and BMF v8.1 and I haven't used the smaller pads yet that time, so it has less bass than the current config.

700

 

 

Using a dx100 as a source, and an O2 for the amp, as far as I can recall how an LCD2 sounds ( I almost always get to listen to one every meet ), the BMF v8.1 is kinda far to how an LCD2 sound. Its probably because of the source and amp. I'm not completely sure how the other t50rp is modded but my friend said he copied whats in the BMF v8.1 guide except for the paxmate "pyramids", and I think the stock felt in the cup vents is not there and it was replaced with another material because the felt is not there when he bought used.

 

The BMF v8.1 I tried sounds flat, really flat, but not boring flat because it gives alot of bass slam, which I really love, but its nowhere having bass body of an lcd2 if I were to compare it with one. Also, it has more treble energy than an LCD2 as well, frequencies do not overlap with other frequencies as far as I can tell.

 

Compared to my half-baked attempt, mine has more bass body but alot less slam. Treble is somewhat lacking and this is a given due to no cotton stuffing inside the cups. When the small pads at the center of the FA003, it sounds much more like an LCD2v1 besides for its "creamy" midrange. Not sure how to make the t50rp's "creamy" as well besides putting some cream that may destroy the drivers :(

 

Maybe the current "bassy" config has around 70-80% of an LCD2v1.

 

Sorry for the long post and take my impressions with a spoon of mash potatoes!

post #8907 of 10599

wow thanks for the update on those. 

post #8908 of 10599

heres what i did to the small headphone pads to further increase bass response and slam

 

700

post #8909 of 10599

Got my T50RP a few weeks ago and I'm loving it! One problem though is that the terminates with a 6.3mm jack. Therefore I want to either reterminate or recable them altogether. I have found a person who could make the cables but I have to mode it myself.

 

So I was thinking, how about doing a dual sided detachable mod? Has anybody done that and is it more practical then the usual one sided mod(detachable@non-detachable) and the dual non-detachable mod? The only benefit from doing this mod is that I can change the cable if problems come up or just want to try another cable or cable style

post #8910 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by graphidz View Post

Got my T50RP a few weeks ago and I'm loving it! One problem though is that the terminates with a 6.3mm jack. Therefore I want to either reterminate or recable them altogether. I have found a person who could make the cables but I have to mode it myself.

 

So I was thinking, how about doing a dual sided detachable mod? Has anybody done that and is it more practical then the usual one sided mod(detachable@non-detachable) and the dual non-detachable mod? The only benefit from doing this mod is that I can change the cable if problems come up or just want to try another cable or cable style

I use dual entry with leads terminated in 4 pin mini xlr's.

This allows me to interchange the DIY or purchased cables I have (I also terminate my magnum builds the same way and the LCD-2 is already like that) depending on desktop, portable or just mood.

 

I would recommend that you retain the existing leads on the drivers and solder your leads/cable to those leads instead of the contact pads (which are laminated). It is a PITA go get solder onto the contact pads of the T50 drivers.

 

 

 

1000

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