Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 593

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjswee 

As for the sound, its hard to tell because I'm modding it already with 20 minutes of listening.  :p 

This is why I suggested that you spend some time with it unmodded, to let your brain get used to what it's hearing, how it's hearing it, etc. I've been wearing contact lenses for over 30 years, and I wear them probably 98% of the time...and when I put my glasses on I see completely different, and it takes my brain a little bit to adjust to how my eyes are processing light through the lenses of my glasses, versus  how my contact lenses process that same light. Headphones do the same thing with sound. IEMs are going to provide a different psycho acoustic perception than a full sized can. Open phones are going to sound different than closed, and on and on...and if you dont give your brain a chance to process what it's hearing you're going to miss the journey the T50 takes you on.

Oh I knew what you meant, but the stock pads were bothering my ears, so there isn't much point to keep them on if I had better replacements.  

I'll keep myself from opening it up for a bit.  

Just finished the RastaPants 2 Version 1.2 modifications.

Also did some re-wiring with Mogami 2534 Gold. Soldered directly onto the solder pads at 500 degrees fahrenheit with 60/40 Rosin Core Solder.

Oh... and a new paint job :O

They sound incredible! :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwnm30rdi3 

Just finished the RastaPants 2 Version 1.2 modifications.

Also did some re-wiring with Mogami 2534 Gold. Soldered directly onto the solder pads at 500 degrees fahrenheit with 60/40 Rosin Core Solder.

Oh... and a new paint job :O

 

They sound incredible! :D

Wow! The paint looks really great!  How did you go about painting it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Llloyd 

 

Wow! The paint looks really great!  How did you go about painting it?

Lots of patients! Ha, no but really... :P

First I took a torch and heated up a screwdriver. With the screwdriver I cut/ melted a hole around the old 3.5mm jack on the Left Cup.

I then took a file to the excess plastic around the newly made hole.

After I cleaned up the hole I put a piece of masking tape over it (Exterior of the Cup).

I pressed in on the masking tape so that the tape was recessed into the hole 2mm or so.

On the inside of the cup I filled the hole with 2 part JB Weld.

I let it set for an hour and removed the masking tape.

Picture of inside the cup (Hole Filled):

I then applied a layer of automotive bondo on top of the now 2mm recessed "hole".

Picture Below:

(Key to smooth finish): When sanding the bondo'ed hole, cut a small piece of wood 1" wide and 1" long and attach the sandpaper to the block of wood. Then cross sand the bondo with the block. This will remove and high spots in the bondo.

I used Lacquer Thinner and a Rag to remove the Fostex stickers.

I then sanded both cups with 150 grit sand paper.

Then I re-sanded them with 320 grit sand paper.

I then coated them both with Etchable Primer.

Picture Below:

I let the primer cure for 4 hours and then dry sanded them with 400 grit sand paper.

Then came the fun part, the base coat! 

I bought a can of White Valspar Lacquer Paint and a can of Clear Coat Valspar Lacquer.

With the primered cups all sanded and ready to paint I applied 3 coats of white paint.

Allowing 30-45 minutes set time between coats.

Picture Below:

Last but not least I applied the clear coat.

I applied 2 coats of clear coat, allowing 30 minutes of set time between coats.

The can says "30 minutes dry to touch" but I let the paint cure for 24 hours before re-assembling.

@pwnm30rdi3

Let me know how the paint holds up. I'm very interested in doing this to my HD-25's.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pingupenguins 

@pwnm30rdi3

 

Let me know how the paint holds up. I'm very interested in doing this to my HD-25's.

I used Plasticine when modding the headphones, I made a huge mess all over the cups in the process.

I also got the sticky tar from the Dynamat all over the cups.

I simply just took a rag and 'GooGone' to the cups.

No scratches or micro scratches that my eyes can see. The paint seems very durable so far!

Awesome job there pwnm30rdi3!!

Though out of curiosity, how did you remove the hinged part from the cups? Seems you have it placed back after the paint job so you must know the non-destructive way to do it!

Indeed that is awesome. A white headband would complete the Imperial Stormtrooper look.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kalbee 

Awesome job there pwnm30rdi3!!

Though out of curiosity, how did you remove the hinged part from the cups? Seems you have it placed back after the paint job so you must know the non-destructive way to do it!

I was stumped at first too, I didn't think it was possible.

I got curious though...

I just took an exacto-knife and gently cut along that little cover.

That little cover may look sturdy but is really about as thin as a piece of paper.

After you cut along that seem, the cover should pull right out.

Underneath the cover is a medium sized phillips head screw.

Quote:

Originally Posted by purrin 

Indeed that is awesome. A white headband would complete the Imperial Stormtrooper look.

 

I've been contemplating a suspension band.

Maybe a white belt?

You mean the cover in the interior of the cup, right?

Not sure if that is considered destructive modding but I imagine as long as I don't destroy the cover I can glue it back somehow! Or replace it with something else.

Thanks!! who would have thought it was a thin layer...

Quote:

Originally Posted by kalbee 

You mean the cover in the interior of the cup, right?

Not sure if that is considered destructive modding but I imagine as long as I don't destroy the cover I can glue it back somehow! Or replace it with something else.

Thanks!! who would have thought it was a thin layer...

Correct, on the interior towards the center of the cup.

I just glued mine back in with a tiny amount of rubber cement.

As long as you aren't trying to destroy the poor plastic cover, I doubt anyone would be able to tell that you've ever had it apart. Haha!

Quote:

Originally Posted by kalbee 

Awesome job there pwnm30rdi3!!

Though out of curiosity, how did you remove the hinged part from the cups? Seems you have it placed back after the paint job so you must know the non-destructive way to do it!

Go to:

Head-fi WIKI > T50RP Modification Summary Links > Scroll down to General Articles

Where can I find the "Unobtanium" Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton? I cannot find it on Amazon. Alternatively, can I use make-up remover cotton balls?
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kloug 

Where can I find the "Unobtanium" Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton? I cannot find it on Amazon. Alternatively, can I use make-up remover cotton balls?
 

I'm searching Rite Aid Pharmacy stores in my area. 

nick n and micmacmo sent me some Absorbent Cotton from London Drugs. It comes in a 1 lb. package. It's in a sheet approximately 25 mm thick and its similar to Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton. In terms of its "fluffy factor" it's not as fluffy as Rite Aid Natural Absorbent Cotton but much more so than the current Rite Aid replacement labeled "First Aid Rolled Cotton" that has not worked for me.

I have not yet tried the London Drugs cotton but it's on my "to do" list.

Cotton balls, once pulled apart, may work.