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post #5371 of 10678

Here's another idea I wish I had thought about earlier. This could work to prevent stripping the threads on the two headband hanger receivers labeled "Ref. # 5 - 'Connector B' on the T50RP Parts List and Exploded View". I can post a picture if anyone is interested.

 

I bought some velcro "belts" at Home Depot to secure instruments and HAM radio wires to my hang glider control frame. They are about 6 inches long, 1/2 inch wide, pointed at one end and square at the other with a slit to accept the pointed end. You could use one of these wrapped around the headband hanger assembly instead of using the stock mounting  screw. It would be a cinch to cinch it down snuggly, avoid stripping the receiver threads, and speed up the process of making multiple, serial mod variations.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

photo (6).JPG

 

To fix stripped plastic threads in the headband hanger receiver: This is a ~ 1/2 inch piece of plastic bag produce wire tie with blue /white plastic. I bent it into a horseshoe shape and hung it over the lip of the headband hanger receiver. Insert it onto the headband and tighten the screw.

 

 

photo (7).JPG

 

This shows the produce rubber band holding the cups and baffles together. This makes changing out mods faster and avoids stripping the threads of the 4 cup receiver compartments. The skinny blue object to the right is a produce wire tie encased in blue/white plastic sheath. Leave the plastic sheath on for the headband hanger. An X-acto knife can be used to remove the plastic sheath for bare wire insertion into stripped cup receiver threads.
 



 



 


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 12/7/11 at 9:00am
post #5372 of 10678


EDIT:  Deleted accidental double post.
 



 



 


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 12/7/11 at 8:47am
post #5373 of 10678

any known materials that would absorb/reduce 2600-2800hz? mine's a lil peaky

post #5374 of 10678

Very happy to see you actively participating on this thread again LFF!

 

I had a dream last night that there were a group of head-fiers hanging out at some coffee house/bar (headphone club?) and I overheard you talking to one of your minions (lol) about the "secret sauce." Turns out it was Pokeman! (a small stuffed Pokeman figure crammed in the cups I guess). Anyway, you decided to take pity on me and help me with my mods so I went shopping with you and your possy! Very very strange since I don't ever hang out at coffee houses/bars anymore and I know nothing at all about Pokeman other than he/it exists (way after my time).

 

So I'm guessing that this is probably incorrect. But I might as well hazard a guess: since you said cotton + dryer sheets was close but no cigar, I am going to guess that the secret sauce is just dryer sheets (e.g. bounce) since you actually mentioned those way back in this thread? Perhaps the Paradox and CottonDryers use different amounts of this secret sauce along with other tuning? Perhaps part of the paradox is that they produce the opposite effect than anticipated (less vs. more)? Just a stab in the dark. I'm guessing that the Fischer 003 pads have as much to do with the sound as anything and there's no way I'm going to be able to pull off the FA003 sock mod!

 

Thanks for humoring me! beerchug.gif

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post



The way they measure....just maybe....

post #5375 of 10678

@Sobbing Wallet, Leeperry & Nevod.

 

Thanks for the advice on the amps for T50. Looks like O2 is recommended by a lot of people.


Edited by Cortlendt - 12/7/11 at 6:24am
post #5376 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cortlendt View Post

@Sobbing Wallet, Leeperry & Nevod.

 

Thanks for the advice on the amps for T50. Looks like O2 is recommended by a lot of people.

NFB12, best DAC for less than $500, amp section better than O2, $240 shipped. Don't have to assemble...duh...
 

 

post #5377 of 10678

One more differences from RP2i (I think) is that MrSpeakers cover the breathing hole from the ear-side baffle with Paxmate. So it's seal.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by proid View Post

Thanks hans and mrspeakers for your replies. Last night, i tried the rp2i with shure 840 pad with the vent closed 3 slot inside with paxmate and 3 slot closed outside with tape and it sound very well but bass is quite bloated. After that, i tried hans config with the felt ( my felt is 100% wool, about 2.5mm thick), the bass port like the previous config and this time, i feel like it lacking the very deep bass. So in my experience is the more i open bass vent, the more bass i get and the more i close the bass vent outside, the more mid bass is  tamed. So i tried this: cover 2 bass slot inside with paxmate and close 3 slot outside with tape and now it's well balance, the bass is deep and tight without bloated. I was wondering is there any mod that get the mid really really foward because using the pad riser which was introduce by HDman, i get very good seal so the bass but midrange is too recessed.

Here are pictures of my config ( this is the previous config so bass vent was closed 1 slot)

 

10fTP.jpg

 

GKlGC.jpg

 

HDfQK.jpg

 

Cc3dv.jpg



 

post #5378 of 10678

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twinster View Post

One more differences from RP2i (I think) is that MrSpeakers cover the breathing hole from the ear-side baffle with Paxmate. So it's seal.


I was under the impression that the hole was left open. Either way, it's open on mine.

 

post #5379 of 10678
i just got my shure 840 pads in. they looked and felt nice but you guys did not tell me how much pain the ass these things were to get on. i had to man handle these on. lucky i didn't rip them. i had lot less issue when i was using my 240 pads.

EDIT: seems worth the pain and effort cause so far they sound insanely good. the foam used for the pads seems perfect as well. i tried the foam discs from my 240DF's in them and it seem to give them more bass impact presence but sacrificing bit of clarity. without the foam discs clarity jumped but the bit extra(not by much) bass impact presence disappeared. the foam is very very thin on the shure pads but i kinda wish it wasn't sewed in. it would made it hell lot easier getting the pads on. that's the only complaint i have with the shure pads. wish it had a removable foam disc instead. i think i might tape the outside or add bit of super glue on the edges outside cause it seems these pads can easily slide off.
Edited by RexAeterna - 12/7/11 at 10:29am
post #5380 of 10678

Quote:

Originally Posted by RexAeterna View Post

i just got my shure 840 pads in. they looked and felt nice but you guys did not tell me how much pain the ass these things were to get on. i had to man handle these on. lucky i didn't rip them. i had lot less issue when i was using my 240 pads.


It's a lot easier if you fold the "flaps" back over the side of the ear pads (kind of like you're turning them inside out?), place the pads on the headphones, and then roll the flaps over the cups. You'll also want to hold the flaps in place once you start rolling them on.

 

post #5381 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by hans030390 View Post

Quote:


It's a lot easier if you fold the "flaps" back over the side of the ear pads (kind of like you're turning them inside out?), place the pads on the headphones, and then roll the flaps over the cups. You'll also want to hold the flaps in place once you start rolling them on.

dang it...why didn't i think of that.. great idea. thanks for the advice!
post #5382 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by applepancakes View Post

any known materials that would absorb/reduce 2600-2800hz? mine's a lil peaky

just tiny bit of fiber glass or mineral wool will do the trick
post #5383 of 10678

Here's a picture of velcro straps used for holding the headband hanger together. Using velcro instead of the attachment screw avoids stripping the receiver threads when making numerous modifications. I bought the velcro at Home Depot and it can be cut to the length you need.

 

Vegetable produce rubber bands can be used to hold the baffles to the cups and prevent stripping the 4 baffle-to-cup threads. This photo shows only 1 in place but I typically use 2. The seal is good and further improved by adding Paxmate (or similar acoustic foam) to the cup outer rims. The blue rubber band is 9mm wide and ~ 4 cm looped and unstretched. I got them for free by buying green veggies.

 

Fostex Velcro and Rubberband Thread Savers.JPG
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Here's another idea I wish I had thought about earlier. This could work to prevent stripping the threads on the two headband hanger receivers labeled "Ref. # 5 - 'Connector B' on the T50RP Parts List and Exploded View". I can post a picture if anyone is interested.

 

I bought some velcro "belts" at Home Depot to secure instruments and HAM radio wires to my hang glider control frame. They are about 6 inches long, 1/2 inch wide, pointed at one end and square at the other with a slit to accept the pointed end. You could use one of these wrapped around the headband hanger assembly instead of using the stock mounting  screw. It would be a cinch to cinch it down snuggly, avoid stripping the receiver threads, and speed up the process of making multiple, serial mod variations.
 



 



 

post #5384 of 10678

grrr cant decide BMF or RP2i

post #5385 of 10678

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkinnyPuppy View Post

grrr cant decide BMF or RP2i


RP2i at least has some measurements behind it, so it's not entirely based on subjective opinions. Not sure if that is something that you're concerned about or not. Personally, though, I'd recommend sticking with reversible mods if at all possible before moving on to permanent mods (such as removing the stock paper behind the drivers).

 

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