Edited by thelostMIDrange - 12/27/11 at 1:20pm
I can see how modding them would affect and improve bass and possibly mids, but how does adding damping do anything to salvage the total latck of treble detail? without that these phones are pretty useless. But if modding does affect the treble, they may end up sounding great.....trouble is, not many of these posts say anything about what their mods do in any detail other than, "this is better, this is great". Talk about useless subjective statements ! HOW is each mod better ?
I wouldn't neccesarily say mine is better than the rest but I do have independent measurements...
Names TOTL headphone:
Another namesless TOTL headphone:
I like my Paradox because to me it sounds very flat, natural and neutral while maintaining great bass slam and fantastic detail and resolution across the frequency spectrum.
Yes, it is 3 conductor.
Craig, I had seen that cable, and may buy one though I only use 1/4" for the amp end. Anyone know how long this cable is?
I was really hoping for a connector that would work that I could wire with whatever i wanted to use. I have about 10' of Mogami mini quad that I was going to start with.
Ran across this connector the other day and was wondering if it would fit? Hate to waste $20+ to find out and will probably just recable.
Is this measured with/without a dummy ear? I ask because I've noticed that the T50RPs don't have a bump at 2-3 kHz like my other headphones do (Superlux 668b for example). Is 3 kHz where the ear canal resonance is? So it should show up on Tyll's measurements, but not when measuring the headphones against e.g. the floor?
My experience so far is that mods shelve the FR from about 1 kHz down. Below is an example of a quick in-ear measurement of the stock cup (+some foam, can't remember), using a MDF baffle instead of the stock baffle, vs a wooden cup. Green is the wooden cup, which is probably overdamped here.
It seems to me that we can do more to bring the cliff down to earth than to raise the treble. The enclosure should have less of an effect on high frequencies, whose wavelengths are small compared to the length scale of the enclosure.
OMG, this phone sounds so horrid stock ^^
I've slapped that isolation foam into a brand new T50RP: fantastic isolation but yay, the sound is mushy, bass shy and the mids are unbearably resonant and sparkly...so I've decided to add newplast in the baffles, no improvement huh? I guess the secret to deep bass lies in proper foam lining inside the cups, you really don't want any plastic to be in contact w/ the back wave...I will install AcoustiPak tomorrow, and possibly add that isolation foam on top
It's true that once you open the side vents, the SS doesn't make sense anymore...and I get to hear my computer fans and my dog snorting, so keeping them closed might end up being a totally acceptable compromise after all.
PS: deep bass is far more percussive and louder on my Akasa lined pair, but there's something I prefer w/ the isolation foam hah! I guess you can only get the exact sound you want by A/B'ing several pairs indeed, the brain DSP smoothing things out too quickly
This really is true though. ^^
Recabled with 4 core MIC cable (first time, went well)
Completely gutted the cups, applied Response Super Sound Deadener (5.0mm thick & foam combo mat, $29.95 from Jaycar)
1.5mm Butyl (same as dynamat), 3.0mm Foam (like paxmate but heaps better)
This stuff is really good.
Gutted the cups, removed the gay little box, sealed up the hole with Response, lined it tightly with a sheet of Response evenly on both cups.
Lined the earside with Response and the plastic risers.
Afterwards, I slit one of the vent stripes and bored it out for the bass tuning from the outside, this Butyl is much easier to work with than Dynamat.
Electrical taped the 840 pads, right on the edge with the risers.
Bass is so tight, like I have not herd before on any of the previous mods. On bass heavy tracks, you could feel the drivers moving a bit, now they stand firm, no shaking about, just the music.
Mids are more laid back, some may not prefer this, I like it not to in your face, but definitely not what I would call D7000 recessed.
Highs are silky smooth now, all harshness is now gone, vocals are really clean.
The best way I could describe the sound, is that it is a cleaner sound, as if they are a completely open can. My take on this is that, open cans have less or no reflections from a closed enclosure, so you only here the music and not a muffling reflection. Room correction technologies curb reflections because they muffle the sound when they bounce back, so essentially open cans sound airy because they have no reflections, not because the sounds goes out into the air.
So my take is that if in an enclosed cup you can kill all the reflections, essentially you are performing the same task as an open design, but most manfactures find it to cost counter productive to spend much money on the acoustical treatment inside the cups and opt for an open design, mush easier and less costs to produce. Hence the reason many of us DIY modders always seem to open up the closed cans to modify them, like the D7000, which I must say drastically improved after treating the insides.
I think I can safely say that my experience was very similar. I used a spray on sound deadener inside the cups and used some natural cellulose sponge material tight up against the driver to dampen it.
My results are almost exactly as you described in yours. With the exception that my mids are not laid back at all, but just forward enough to be perfect for me. The result is so close to an open can. I actually grab these more often than my HD600's (paired with a modded Matrix M-stage). And I love an open sound.
I am torn between humility and being convinced that my mod is the s*&t! I really need to connect with another T50rp owner/modder locally to compare. Suffice it to say I have not even been tempted to open them and tinker since I hit on this configuration.