Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 337

 

Do you need to modify the headphone to change the pads? 

 

If you're tired of answering the same answers over and over go and share what you know on this wiki :P ! http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fostex_T50RP

Nope, most of the pads mentioned here can fit on a stock T50RP - indeed most of the mods don't change the outward appearance at all.  Some can be pretty hard to put on though...

 

Oh also, uh.  It seems that the baffle is kind of coming loose on my pair.  I think it's because I filled it completely with plasticine, even where the little connector box was supposed to go, and it eventually put too much pressure on it and it kind of snapped.  A little piece of plastic fell out last time I opened it. :P

 

...I hope I can fix this with superglue?  It doesn't seem to affect the sound at all though, which is good...

Do a search on Amazon: "repair plastic threads"

Several products listed might work for you. I have a couple of screw threads stripped from too many mods.

Well, the threads themselves are actually fine - it's just basically the part of the baffle that's immediately underneath the felt on the earpad side that's falling out.  Basically it looks like the felt itself is what's coming off but it's too thick and stiff, and I see some of the plasticine under it.

RE my previous post - I have since tried 1X transpore, 1.5X transpore, 2X transpore and 3X transpore and all of these had issues with midrange peaks, most notable upper midrange sibilance which is not an issue with nothing on the back of the driver.  

 

1X - lest sibilant, too loose bass

1.5X can't recall exactly but wasn;t happy

2X - overdamped - sounds plasticky and sibilant

3X - ridiculously overdamped

 

I might try replacing the stock driver backing to see if that turns out to perform well.  No backing sounds quite balanced but a little vague in the imaging, maybe a little resonant.

 

Any suggestions re driver backing?  Just to note cup is fully damped with felt, baffle damped with plasteciene.

all i did was stuff the enclosure with layer about 1'' thick of mineral wool and added few cotton balls over top of it to kill the resonance issues it had but due to lot of stuffing i had to put little force to shut it and hold it there while i place the first screw. after the first screw it's pretty much smooth sailing from there. wonderful midrange on these once you kill the resonance and get rid of the crappy stock pads.

If you read all the posts, most folks agree a high current solid state amp makes these shine. For $250 shipped for an NFB12, you get one of the best DACs/ClassA amps available. It's what I use, it's a no brainer, NFB12 owners, comments?
 

 

i never tried any of them but i do agree on it liking current part. i run them off speaker outputs and they respond very well off of them and open up with the extra given power.

Are people using sticking the felt down on the rear of the cups or are you placing a floating piece in there?  I damped the cups and baffles with plasticene and I'm not happy with the result so I'd like to try felt in the cups.  I suspect the internal volume is reduced to negative effect and felt will damp without significantly altering the volume.  Gotta get rid of that muffled sound.  To clarify further I'm using Shure840 pads stuffed with poly  insulation (old speaker wadding), removed driver backing and one square of transpore in the middle, removed vent felts and covered 80% with plasticene.  Haven't removed baffle felt (ear side) nor have I tried any paxmate, which is impossible to get locally.

 

Alternative suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

@rehabitat A lot of people seem to have success filling the cup with very lighweight damping materials like teased cotton balls or mineral wool - that will be what I will try next.  Not sure how important damping the surface of the cup seems to be though.

 

EDIT:  Have just filled cups with teased cotton wool - definite improvement in terms of clarity and reducing the "muffled" sound.  Good old Faust Mod has saved the day.  If you find there is still some muffled sound, add more cotton wool.  In the end I added quite a bit, I would say 5 or 6 small cotton balls, but this will likely vary greatly from case to case, so best bet is to add cotton balls until it sounds right.

Edited by drez - 11/25/11 at 12:34am

Could I buy this cable and cut the end off, then Y split it to the L/R T50RP drivers? (would it be 1 blue 1 white per driver? What about ground?)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-FT-CANARE-BLACK-STAR-QUAD-HEADPHONE-EXTENSION-CABLE-NEUTRIK-GOLD-PLATED-/270855686162?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1041c812

Edited by HDMan - 11/24/11 at 11:49pm

Yes, it would be 1 blue 1 white for per driver

What about ground?

 

 

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I have found the most awesome way to mod the 840 pads ever, your going to love this one, it's perfect.

 

Find a round plastic container like a decor food container (thats what i used), plastic has to be flexible but a little stiff aswell.

http://www.officeworks.com.au/ims_docs/4A/4A478091EBAA04DCE1008000AC193D36.JPG

 

Cut in half and shape half circle piece, thinner at the edges, bigger in the middle tapering down to the end to give it the shape. Then cover it with Paxmate on the inside, insert in the back of the pads, perfect fit, lots of space, awesome sound.

 

OMG, i just listened to them again, detail is incredible and a massive soundstage now, mass area inside the pads is essential.

 

And guess what, balance issue is gone.

 

Headfier's, I am asking a favour, for all my input over the last few months I am asking if anyone has any Paxmate they could give me, I have run out and need to line the new mods (plastic risers). I would buy some, but it is impossible to get in Australia.

Edited by HDMan - 11/25/11 at 1:32am

Jaycar sell paxmate type foam. They also have a combined paxmate foam and dynamat style material as well.

 

I use the NFB12 and it provides more than enough power for these headphones and is very pleasant with them, however the amp section is not the most revealing. You can get a 250$ amp(only) that is better. I dont think you can get a 250$ amp/dac that has this much power that is better though. Maybe the Maverick D1 with modified opamps, that was very pleasing, less warm and more analytical (to my ears) but I did not get to compare them side by side, and I did not get much time with the maverick so my observations are limited.

 

apparently the Obj 2 can drive these, Idk how well, I would have to hear that from someone I really trust before I fully believe it. But most of the people I trust are put off by "he who shall not be named" claims of obvious superiority. 

 

all I can say is do NOT use a cheap tube amp. These need a low impedance output, so class A, hybid, and opamp style amps are fine. I would even be wary of expensive tube amps just because of the inefficiency of it.