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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 288

post #4306 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by 200poundsofamp View Post


Shouldn't you cut a hole in the 840 covers then? They fabric's even thicker - wouldn't that "opens up the details" even more?



I cut them off right around the edge, so that I could get cotton wool into the rear side of the pads to raise them, then I experimented with different combinations, cotton wool/material, just material, none of both. Try and see what you like, it's all about trial and error, because everybody's ears are a different shape and your amp and source may differ alot to mine, this will have an impact on the type of sound coming through and into the cups, hence the need for experimentation.

 

An amp and source may be bright, so a dull headphone may be your taste, an amp may be forward in the mids, again adjust to your likings.

 

This is the main reason I am going to be investing in the SVS A8 realiser, it has Room Correction in your headphones, to curb any reflections.


Edited by HDMan - 10/29/11 at 6:54pm
post #4307 of 10599

beerchug.gif
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Less is more. Less is more. I keep saying that redface.gif



 

post #4308 of 10599

BMF, care to share your tungsten putty recipe? 

post #4309 of 10599

Just added some B-Quiet Ultimate, a butyl-based dampener, to the ear-side of the baffle, as BMF discussed here. In my case, it made some welcome changes, including better top-end extension and clarity. A more balanced organic sound overall, but at the cost of some bass rolloff. (I'll have to tune the rear vent to restore what I lost).

 

I don't have an X-acto kit or Dremel, so I used a drywall sanding sponge, cut into more convenient sizes, to remove the ear-side felt. It required a wee bit of scrubbing, but the way it removed the fibres reminded me of a lint brush picking up lint. To remove stray fibres and any residual adhesive, I scraped the surface of the baffle with a pen knife. Surprisingly clean and simple.

 

A worthwhile mod, IMHO. Thanks, BMF. 

post #4310 of 10599

@BMF: how weigh is the tungsten you put in each cup? Can i use this http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenpowder.htm?

post #4311 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by proid View Post

@BMF: how weigh is the tungsten you put in each cup? Can i use this http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenpowder.htm?


Mixing that with plasteciene sounds like a good idea - tugnsten putty is very expensive and you don't get very much.  the backing plate to the driver took about 15 grams for both.  It would not be economical to use store bought tungsten putty over the whole baffle backing, but if you mix tungsten powder with plasteceiene that sounds pretty feasible.

post #4312 of 10599

I picked up some tungsten putty today, and it's a fantastic material. If a cheap way of making our own can be brewed up, that will be the material of choice, I'm sure. Shame the fishing version is so expensive. I also tried using some of that foam I stole borrowed instead of cotton wool - I'm getting great results from it, though I'm not convinced it's actually better than cotton wool. I'm impressed by the openness of the sound I'm getting, though that might well be due to removing all that plasticine. Anyone else tried a foam filler?


Edited by Arleus - 10/30/11 at 8:34am
post #4313 of 10599

Just bought two pairs of T50-RPs from B&H yesterday, one will be my brother's Christmas present (He is slowly warming up to the idea to higher quality audio), and the other one will remain stock for comparison's sake.

 

Speaking of which, I am using a purely portable setup now.  G4 iPod (yes, the B&W one) output to ALO Rx mkII to T50-RP, but my brother is likely going to go with a desktop setup, with the iPad as source.  What would pair up well with the modded T50-RP?  I am thinking one of the following:

 

1) Matrix mini-i.  In this case, I have recable the T50-RPs to balanced XLRs.

2) iBasso DAC/AMP (Anaconda or D2 + Boa)

3) Fostex HP-P1

4) Go with a Matrix m-stage amp, then worry about the DAC later on.

 

He will likely use the camera kit as a way to by-pass the iPad DAC if he was to go with the iPad DAC.

 

Any suggestions?

 

And yes, money does matter, and so does the looks.

post #4314 of 10599

@ambchang-

 

I just started modding my T50's, but while stock I thought they paired up very well with my slightly tweaked M-Stage.

 

In fact the combo was better than with my AKG701's, which is why I bought the Matrix in the first place.

 

Can't wait to get back to finishing my planned mods..... stupid homework!

 

-Dogwan

post #4315 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwan View Post

Can't wait to get back to finishing my planned mods..... stupid homework!

 

It's probably cold consolation, but this old man admires your discipline and priorities. 

post #4316 of 10599

For anyone interested right now, here are some available:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fostex-T50-RP-Pro-Headphones-/170720103998?pt=DJ_Gear_Lighting&hash=item27bfb60e3e#ht_4647wt_1392

 

$82.99 and free shipping.

post #4317 of 10599
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinliu View Post

For anyone interested right now, here are some available:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fostex-T50-RP-Pro-Headphones-/170720103998?pt=DJ_Gear_Lighting&hash=item27bfb60e3e#ht_4647wt_1392

 

$82.99 and free shipping.



USA only shipping.

 

:x

post #4318 of 10599

Just ordered a pair on Amazon for $83 bucks.

 

So can someone please provide me links to the mods?  If anyone has them saved?  I need to get back on Amazon and order me some supplies.

 

I haven't myself but I know some of you have been following this thread for a long time, and if you have all the popular mod instructions listed somewhere you might consider making a wiki for it.  Would be helpful.

 

 

post #4319 of 10599

Particularly interested in Mr. Speakers / LFF's mod links.  

post #4320 of 10599

I recommend starting with this thread.

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