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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 261

post #3901 of 10570

That would have required more work :P However I have my doubts about that but I don't have another one to test it out on and don't think I have the patience to try it again. However it does seem that there is foam on there as well so not sure how much different it would really make. Maybe someone with two T50RP can try that out :p I'm pretty happy with this configuration right now.

 

As for stock and O2 pads the comfort is on another level with the O2 esp since it is much thicker. I do recall sound stage being better on O2 but I'll try it when I get home.

 

post #3902 of 10570

I was looking at plastcine to make rastapants 2, but i'm not sure what to get is this kiddy stuff good?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Plasticine-Neon-Color-Play-Visions/dp/B002BRSCUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318702831&sr=8-1

 

also will this work in place of paxmate I can't seem to find any on the cheap 

 

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=pd_rhf_se_shvl3


Edited by theguatemalian - 10/15/11 at 1:05pm
post #3903 of 10570

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

Can we get a picture of the felt you're using? regular_smile%20.gif Or a link! (if a good picture is available) It might be thicker than what we're using and not letting the drivers breathe.

 

Are you using this felt? Or something thicker? If it's thicker and harder, it may be the culprit.

 

IMG_0393.JPG

 

It is not a bass heavy can with stock pads. Perhaps wait for your 840's to fix this.

 


My felt looks to be that thick, but it looks like it might be less breathable than the one in your picture. I think I'll just run to the store and pick up the specific kind everyone else is using. BTW, does the modelling clay I'm using look OK? Here's what I got specifically.

 

post #3904 of 10570

Ok, I got some of the stiffened Creatology felt. Problem is, the thickness/density wasn't consistent at all with the selection of felt! I bought 3 pieces of the black felt, and I'm not sure which to use. There are two that are barely thinner than the third, and they let much more light through. Even between those two thinner pieces, one of them seems more dense and lets slightly less light through. Which do I use? I'll attach some pictures. The first three will be in order of which lets the most light (thinnest/least dense) to which lets the least light through (thickest/most dense). Then I'll have another set of pictures (felt is in same order) showing the "harder" side of the felt. You might be able to tell the thickness as well.

 

felt1.JPG  felt2.JPG  felt3.JPG

 

felt12.JPG  felt22.JPG  felt32.JPG

 

BTW, my previous question about the modelling clay I used still stands.

post #3905 of 10570

Ok, so someone asked me to post my 840 pad mod earlier, I only got my crappy phone camera, lol.

 

This mod allowed me to raise the pads at the rear by 5-10mm, closer to the Denon pads, which I was unable to get (probably should have got JMoney pads, but hey these are no different now)

 

Cut a strip of vinyl, sewed a stitch along the edge, pul it together with a weaving thread joining the 2 threads together, then pulled the pads out more and stuffed the backs with cotton wool, then applied the old black material from the pads I had cut out earlier, SOUNDS FREAKN AEWSOME!!!

 

30mm at the rear

17mm at the front

 

Pic_1016_008.jpg

 

 

Need to clean up that headband, lol.

Pic_1016_009.jpg

post #3906 of 10570

rawster, how does your RP2 T50RP sound quality and FR linearity stand against the DT880 and the HE-4?

And is the Yulong D100 able to drive the RP2 T50RP well enough?

 

Thanks!
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rawrster View Post

So now that I've waken up and no longer as tired I decided to do the other side and imo I did a better job since it is much cleaner inside than before so it doesn't look like a 5 year old did these mods.

 

I took off the foam inside the cups to start a new:

 

IMG_1706 (640x480).jpgIMG_1705 (640x480).jpg

 

 

 

Then I added some electrical tape over the bass vents and then added dynamat:

 

IMG_1709 (640x480).jpgIMG_1710 (640x480).jpg

 

I lined the cups with silverstone acoustic foam:

 

IMG_1711 (640x480).jpg

 

I then added some modeling clay to the ring around the baffle and then put the acoustic foam on the modeling clay except for the additional ring I just put:

 

IMG_1713 (640x480).jpgIMG_1714 (640x480).jpg

 

I then closed it up and  put foam over the other side of the baffle except around the ring where the four screws which you need to open them up as well as the driver which I forgot to take a picture of (and too lazy to take one now since I put the O2 pads on already) but I ended up with this:

 

IMG_1715 (640x480).jpg

 

 

I believe these are all the RP2 mods by mrspeakers. If I missed something please let me know but to my knowledge this is the full mod.

 

In summary:

 

I have electrical tape over the bass vents after removing the black felt, dynamat on the lining of the cups and then acoustic foam over that. I also removed the cylinder shaped foam things on top of those 4 tower things in the cups since they were being annoying when I was applying the foam.

I removed the stock felt over the driver and put some creatology felt, filled the holes around the baffle with modeling clay and then put acoustic foam over that and also applied modeling clay to the ring around the baffle.

Lastly after closing it up I put acoustic foam on the ear side of the baffle outside of the ring and where the driver is.

 

Also I removed the double sided tape (which was a huge pita due to the sticky residue that remained) so that it won't damage my pads like it did with the stock pads when I tried removing it. Some of the pleather is ripped because of that tape.

 

edit: Actually as I was looking at the pics I realized I put dynamat over the bass vents. Does that matter that much? I think I only did it on the right side but not completely sure. Does that really matter since it's covered with electrical tape and also the foam on top of that?

 

edit #2: I looked over the posts showing the RP2 and it seems that fatmat was used over all of the lining including the bass ports so I think I'm safe.

 

 

 

 

I've had almost an hour or so listening to these. I have to say I like what I'm hearing. The bass is much better quality and no longer boomy but that is my fault since I was too lazy to cover the bass vents after taking off the felt and did not have electrical tape then. What I am hearing is something very balanced. It is not analytical and not bass heavy. It is somewhere in the middle being close to neutral with a hint of warmth but that warmth may be due to my V200 amp since that is on the warm side. All areas of the spectrum is nice with the bass being of high quality, mids are nice and no noticeable peaks like before and the treble is much better refined without sounding bright.

 

I think with these mods I am done modding this headphone. It sounds great and I don't want to mess with it more but I do want to try one more modification after getting an idea from another member here. I am going to try the RP2 more and then try that mod and then see which one to stick. Either way these sound excellent with a nice balanced sound which is what I enjoy. Out of my V200 which has enough power for them they sound great and if I had nothing else I could be happy with just these but I do have other options such as my DT880, HE-4, etc. I like having different signatures for my moods so I won't be selling all the rest of my gear. I do want another pair of the T50RP to configure it to a more bass heavy version but not bass monster heavy. That's the great thing about these headphones is that I can tune it to my liking which I can't think of another headphone where I can do this.


 

 

post #3907 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Can someone provide me a picture of the front (ear side) of the baffle without earpad?


Here ya go.

 

Fostex baffle.jpg

 

Length = 10.8 centimeters

Width   =  9.8 centimeters

Rim      =  1.0 centimeter

Baffle equalization vent at top of dust cover

 

 

 

 

Fostex Pad.jpg

 

Pad Width approx. 2.5 centimeters

Pad Depth approx. 1.2 centimeters

 

post #3908 of 10570

I just played with some bass porting.  As much as I liked the big bass sound of a fully open bass port with the stock bass felt on it, it really was bleeding into the midrange and blooming.  I found my happy medium was covering 3/4 of the vents with electrical tape.  I figured I would add this to the thread in order to support the porting hypothesis.  Its a lot more balanced now and the bass still goes deep.

post #3909 of 10570

anyone tried the velour srh940 pads on these, opinions on the sound?

post #3910 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

rawster, how does your RP2 T50RP sound quality and FR linearity stand against the DT880 and the HE-4?

And is the Yulong D100 able to drive the RP2 T50RP well enough?

 

Thanks! 

 

 


I don't have enough time with the T50RP right now to make anything solid but the sound is quite balanced. The DT880 is slightly V shaped while the HE-4 brings the mids up a bit closer up. Before the mods I did today I felt that the T50RP was my best headphone and while I have not compared them to any of the headphones I have in my possession I think it's safe to say that the T50RP will remain my best headphone.

 

I have not tried the Yulong D100 with the T50RP. I have only used the PPAv2 and the V200. I will try later but my guess is that while volume will not be a problem it may not be able to drive the T50RP as well as either of the two amps I currently own.
 

post #3911 of 10570

Well, I went ahead and used the thinnest of the felt I got (see my issue above), and it has definitely helped! They sound a lot better now. I also put the black vent felt back and Silverstone foam over 3 of the vent slits. There was still too much bleeding of the bass/lower mids into the rest of the sound, so I ended up covering the last vent slit until it had an opening of about 2-3mm. I also still have fiberloft stuffed under the back half of the earpads (made a huge difference). They sound pretty great now! Can't wait to see what the 840 pads will do...if they sound a good bit better, I'll probably splurge and get the O2 pads.

 

They're still a bit harsh/bright for my tastes. Need to tame the treble a bit...

 

My open-backed D2000s still sound more spacious and airy, but I'm having issues ironing out some upper-mid and treble peaks (sibilant and bright). I got them recabled hoping that would help, but it actually made the treble even worse (too exaggerated). It did help out in other areas, though. I'm going to be burning that in to see if it helps. Anyway, it's a lot of fun modding these two headphones! I think once I get my issues ironed out in both headphones, it'll be interesting to see how the two headphones stack up. So far, the open-backed D2000s have more potential to my ears...but perhaps the new earpads for the T50RP will change my mind...

post #3912 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by hans030390 View Post

Well, I went ahead and used the thinnest of the felt I got (see my issue above), and it has definitely helped! They sound a lot better now. I also put the black vent felt back and Silverstone foam over 3 of the vent slits. There was still too much bleeding of the bass/lower mids into the rest of the sound, so I ended up covering the last vent slit until it had an opening of about 2-3mm. I also still have fiberloft stuffed under the back half of the earpads (made a huge difference). They sound pretty great now! Can't wait to see what the 840 pads will do...if they sound a good bit better, I'll probably splurge and get the O2 pads.

 

They're still a bit harsh/bright for my tastes. Need to tame the treble a bit...

 

My open-backed D2000s still sound more spacious and airy, but I'm having issues ironing out some upper-mid and treble peaks (sibilant and bright). I got them recabled hoping that would help, but it actually made the treble even worse (too exaggerated). It did help out in other areas, though. I'm going to be burning that in to see if it helps. Anyway, it's a lot of fun modding these two headphones! I think once I get my issues ironed out in both headphones, it'll be interesting to see how the two headphones stack up. So far, the open-backed D2000s have more potential to my ears...but perhaps the new earpads for the T50RP will change my mind...


after playing around with the Fostex, i decided to try some mods on my D2000/JMoney pads as well.  i basically played around with some felt and cotton like i did with the Fostex.  i went to the extreme with one cotton variation and was able to cut the bass off at the knees at around 100Hz.  the Denons do respond to mods.  i haven't played around with the baffle yet.

 

post #3913 of 10570

FWIW...

 

Today I made my first comparison between my BMF #5 and my LCD2 --> Dacmini amp/dac. I tested with Steely Dan, Zero 7, Sade, Anna Maria Jopek, and London Symphony Orchestra - Elgar: Enigma Variations, Brahms: 3rd Symphony, and Smetana: Ma Vlast.  These 2 sets of orthos are voiced very similarly from top to bottom; especially on vocals.  There is less difference with classical.  LCD2's win by a significant margin, particularly for soundstage and air.  Still, for $75 and about $15 worth of mods stuff this mod is ~ 90% of my LCD2's for 1/10th the price...  Impressive Bang for Buck. 

 

Until someone comes up with a better mouse trap, I think I'm done.  

 

Next move...wooden cups, T50RP transplants, and re-cabling.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

I love my new pants!

 

I started yesterday and finished BMF #5 this morning. Today, I compared them to Stock, BMF #4, and my Not Rastapants v2. I repeatedly played segments of some favorite tunes across all 4 sets and kept tweaking until I achieved the sound I've been looking for. I'm really happy with the whole sound package. The bass is deep without spill-over into the mids. The midrange is so smooth, clear and balanced with the bass and treble - neither too forward nor recessed. The treble range is extended further than my previous efforts without the least bit of harshness. I can hear chimes, bells, high hats, and brushes on snares/cymbals very easily for the first time out out of modded T50's. There is a greater sense of space between notes and more airiness in female vocals, as well as the treble range, than my previous mods. This modded set's level of detail and clarity is impressive and performs effortlessly. It's easy to tune the bass ports and the ear pads for the amount of bass I want; same for the high end.  And it's all reversible.  

 

I hope this is helpful....

 

Fostex FancyPants Mod Stuff.jpg

 

Cotton balls pulled length-wise, silicone (?) bumpers, Paxmate, Dynamat, Claytoon plasticine. The package of plasticine on the right is unopened, the middle package shows how much was used in one previous set, and the white package is what's left after the current mods. 

 

 

 

Fostex FancyPants To Be.jpg

 

Let's begin.

 

 

 

Fostex FancyPants DynaDamp.jpg

 

1. Stock driver felt and bass port felt remain in place.  

 

2. Two strips of Dynamat in cup bottoms, only; pressed down firmly and dimpled with flat head screwdriver. I don't know if this has any effect but I had it laying around.

 

3. Plasticine applied all the way from the driver perimeter to baffle outer ring. I pressed this in very firmly and tapered outward. I believe the extra mass loading is in large measure responsible for the remarkable improvements I'm hearing as I type this post.  They are not heavy - I split 1.33 oz. between the two baffles but this is 4 or 5 times the amount if you only apply plasticine flush within the baffle compartments.

 

4. Baffle equalization vents remain open: 1 open through-and-through the baffle and 3 semi-open/covered by the dust cover on the ear side of the baffles.

 

 

 

Fostex FancyPants SideView.jpg

 

 

 

5. Paxmate cut to fit entire cup interior except the bass ports which remain open --> I did not remove the stock bass port felt.

 

6. I added Paxmate to the central cup compartment to tune to my preferences.

 

Fostex FancyPants Fit!.jpg

 

7. Furniture bumper added to increase treble extension.  This worked great. 

 

8. Not shown: I pulled apart 4 cotton balls, each forming cotton log. I placed 2 of these under the back half of each stock ear pad and the difference is striking. Reducing or adding more padding changes the external chamber volume with favorable SQ mods to suit your preferences.  

 

EDIT:   Armaegis suggested using cotton gauze instead of cotton balls.  I rolled up some and pushed them under the stock ear pads. The sound improvement from top to bottom is similar to pulled cotton balls without the messiness of cotton fibers everywhere.

 

I'm diggin' it.

 

That's all I have...no secrets...nothing held back.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 



 

post #3914 of 10570

Yay for the Fostex! @90% of LCD2 - who would complain? biggrin.gif
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

FWIW...

 

Today I made my first comparison between my BMF #5 and my LCD2 --> Dacmini amp/dac. I tested with Steely Dan, Zero 7, Sade, Anna Maria Jopek, and London Symphony Orchestra - Elgar: Enigma Variations, Brahms: 3rd Symphony, and Smetana: Ma Vlast.  These 2 sets of orthos are voiced very similarly from top to bottom; especially on vocals.  There is less difference with classical.  LCD2's win by a significant margin, particularly for soundstage and air.  Still, for $75 and about $15 worth of mods stuff this mod is ~ 90% of my LCD2's for 1/10th the price...  Impressive Bang for Buck. 

 

Until someone comes up with a better mouse trap, I think I'm done.  

 

Next move...wooden cups, T50RP transplants, and re-cabling. 

 



 

post #3915 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogears View Post

Yay for the Fostex! @90% of LCD2 - who would complain? biggrin.gif

 



Nobody.

 

I want to see how mine fare against the new LCD-3. evil_smiley.gif

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