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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 244

post #3646 of 10561

This should have been detailed in the mod. I feel this is important. (Please consider it Mrspeakers)

 

~~~~~~~Lastly, the craetology stiff felt~~~~~~~~ (or whatever stiff felt you're using. Before application to the driver, observe the stiff felt carefully. You will observe one side is 'smoother' (and slightly more porous) than the other. This side is 'softer' to the touch than the opposite side. Make sure this side is is faced down towards the driver. and the harder side (slightly more 'plasticky' feel than the other) is the side that is face up (is facing you) upon application.

 

This is critical and I notice it did not make it into the mods.
 

 

 

post #3647 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

This should have been detailed in the mod. I feel this is important. (Please consider it Mrspeakers)

 

~~~~~~~Lastly, the craetology stiff felt~~~~~~~~ (or whatever stiff felt you're using. Before application to the driver, observe the stiff felt carefully. You will observe one side is 'smoother' (and slightly more porous) than the other. This side is 'softer' to the touch than the opposite side. Make sure this side is is faced down towards the driver. and the harder side (slightly more 'plasticky' feel than the other) is the side that is face up (is facing you) upon application.

 

This is critical and I notice it did not make it into the mods. 

 

 


I was wondering if you were going to specify which side to use....wink_face.gif

 

post #3648 of 10561

I've just finish the shortening of one of the 3 stock cables that I have, soldering a 1/8" Nicon gilded plug. It has been a total pain in the ass, because the 3 pole cable repels the tin soldering, but finally I've managed to do it, even though it was my first time with the tin solder smily_headphones1.gif

 

 

Now I can go everywhere my the Fosteximus. Oh yeah hehehe.

 

 

BTW, my O2 pads are still in the spanish customs.... I suppose that they're going to charge me 30% of the value in taxes and duties.

post #3649 of 10561

My O2 pads come tomorrow since the post office isn't delivering today. It arrived at my local post office Sat morning but it was too late for that day's delivery. Hopefully the O2 pads are worth it but I think anything other than the stock pads would be an improvement. 

post #3650 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

Preeeettyy. popcorn.gif o.O

 

Just make sure you put a little bit more plasticine on the driver housing too (as little plastic showing as possible). I also dimpled my clay around the baffle edge to look like acoustic foam.

 

are they (the vents) taped closed as well?

 

Lastly, the venting holes. ~ Check out how I've put the clay near and around the holes, but made sure not to cover them up. Then put the foam near them.

 

 

The last thing I'd take a second look at is the foam. The foam over the center dots is  bugging me. (=d) I would try it this way because it keeps the surface of the cup consistent. The way you have it draped may be causing discolorations? (slight?) Due to odd angle reflections?. I think it might mess with the sound-stage a little bit. And it might the mids from 700-1000hz-ish.

 

 

 

All in all though, very minor changes!

 

Make sure: 

 

  • Masking tape vents.
  • Plasticine on driver housing and dimple it if you can. (creates acoustic foam scenario within the clay-it scatters the sound waves/and absorbs them a little better). It will sound better.\
  • Plasticine around the little venting holes. ; )

 

Me nitpicking, but I think it would help;

 

  • I would definitely redo the silverstone on the pokey center plastic (flat rather than blanketed for creation of more space in the cup and consistancy.. Idk, it just seems acoustically right. =D

 

While minor things, I suspect they will in conjunction make a moderate-large difference. These should take about 5-10 minutes all in all to apply them. Please do!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

This should have been detailed in the mod. I feel this is important. (Please consider it Mrspeakers)

 

~~~~~~~Lastly, the craetology stiff felt~~~~~~~~ (or whatever stiff felt you're using. Before application to the driver, observe the stiff felt carefully. You will observe one side is 'smoother' (and slightly more porous) than the other. This side is 'softer' to the touch than the opposite side. Make sure this side is is faced down towards the driver. and the harder side (slightly more 'plasticky' feel than the other) is the side that is face up (is facing you) upon application.

 

This is critical and I notice it did not make it into the mods. 

 

 

 

Thanks for helping me troubleshoot these, Hennyo. I do have the vents closed with electrical tape, underneath the Silverstone. I agree that some of the Silverstone could be cleaned up a bit, especially with that reflex area. I'll do what you said regarding the stiff craft felt as well and see if that brings about any changes. 

 

Also, I'm scoring a bit of acoustic foam from my coworker today, so I'll be able to apply the acoustic foam over the entire earside of the baffle. I think that should bring me to full Rastapants 2 (except with 840 pads). 
 

 

post #3651 of 10561

Mr Speakers, where did you get your felt from? I am not sure I want to jump all in to make my pair into a pair of RP2's, but I am curious to try your felt. Based on previous experiments, I definitely know what a big difference something as small as a piece of felt over the driver can make.

 

I am hesitant to DynaMat my whole cup, but I already have it coated in a thin layer of plastacine, so I am fairly close to where the RP2's are. I might just try covering my baffle with Paxmate to see what it does. to my sound.

post #3652 of 10561

I did a search and didn't find anyone else had mentioned this, but perhaps it is old and has already been done.  I got a pair of 840 pads a few weeks ago. I didn't like the way they looked with the white string around the edge, or the way that they fitted when stretched around the outside of the 'phones.  I also slightly tore the edge of one of the pads from taking it off and putting it on.  So, I decided to try to wrap them around the baffle side of the cup, then screw the baffle back on, wedging the edge of the pad between the baffle and the cup.  I had to cut out the felt from the middle of the 840 pad, and it was tricky to get the screws to line up, but I'm pretty good at it now after taking them apart a few times.

 

Now I have the 840 pad secured on the baffle by screwing the baffle on with the edge of the pad between the baffle and the cup, so the pad is secured onto the phone.  I decided to try angled pads by wedging cotton balls underneath the backside of the 840 pad, which will work now, since the edge is pinched between the cup and the baffle.  I think this is a great improvement.  I would be curious to read what others might think of this simple mod.  The cotton is only seen slightly when the headphones are off, and it seems to be a good material for this mod.   I haven't tried anything else, but I'm sure that something more permanent and stable would not be difficult to implement.

 

Is there a downside to having the plether material wedged between the cup and the baffle?  It seems to make a good seal, and there are serious logistical and aesthetic benefits to this configuration.  There is also potentially a great sonic benefit, to be able to easily angle the pads to change the way the driver faces the ear.

 

I apologize for not having pictures.  I can submit some later today if there is any interest.

 

Thank you to everyone for sharing your experience modding.  I look forward to continue work on my T50s.

 

-Aaron.

 

fyi-My T50's have blu tack in the baffle, and lining the cup, with thick felt covering the blu tack in the cup, stock felt + felt over driver, stock felt over holes in cups, small felt dot on cup reflex extrusion, and baffle side hole uncovered.  With this mod and the angled pads playing test tones, I have more even frequency response than with the holes covered and the unangled pads, especially in the 2K-5K range. (tested by ear for difference in loudness, crude but it works for a basic answer).

post #3653 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Questhate View Post

 

 

Thanks for helping me troubleshoot these, Hennyo. I do have the vents closed with electrical tape, underneath the Silverstone. I agree that some of the Silverstone could be cleaned up a bit, especially with that reflex area. I'll do what you said regarding the stiff craft felt as well and see if that brings about any changes. 

 

Also, I'm scoring a bit of acoustic foam from my coworker today, so I'll be able to apply the acoustic foam over the entire earside of the baffle. I think that should bring me to full Rastapants 2 (except with 840 pads).  

 


I saw flysweep do this awhile back.. I applied acoustic foam over the entire earside baffle... When I did it the sound was very tiny. I actually found this configuration worse than stock Fostex T50rp.. I have to call mrspeakers about this. Then I put foam just under the stock pads, only to find I felt it was adding some sort of colorations...

 

I'm going to see if I can call Mrspeakers, just for clarification about baffle earside foam all the way around the driver. I don't know if LFF was performing it this way too, (hint) but I'm finding it amazing without.

 

Hey, do all the inside mods now (since you then won't have to open your cups ever again) and then wait for a response from Mrspeakers or LFF. I personally found foam on the baffle side to 'suck out' many frequency ranges in the spectrum and made the sound more tinny. I had it in for about 30 minutes before I decided 'this is not for me.'

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post

I was wondering if you were going to specify which side to use....wink_face.gif

 

 

I can't figure out weather your being serious or not, Wait, was I not supposed to? ^^
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Mr Speakers, where did you get your felt from? I am not sure I want to jump all in to make my pair into a pair of RP2's, but I am curious to try your felt. Based on previous experiments, I definitely know what a big difference something as small as a piece of felt over the driver can make.

 

I am hesitant to DynaMat my whole cup, but I already have it coated in a thin layer of plastacine, so I am fairly close to where the RP2's are. I might just try covering my baffle with Paxmate to see what it does. to my sound.

 

Michaels, Jo-anns. A craft store.
 

 

post #3654 of 10561
Quote:

Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

I can't figure out weather your being serious or not, Wait, was I not supposed to? ^^ 

Every time I try to get out...they keep pulling me back in!

 

I was being serious. I did not use felt on the Paradox but have noticed that felt generally has two sides. A smooth, "hard" side and a more porous side. If I were using it for headphones I am sure the side I place against the driver would matter quite a bit as would the method of attachment.
 

 

post #3655 of 10561

Hm, so what happens if you use too much damping material in the cup?


That is, has anyone used good earmuffs before?  They block more noise than any headphone or IEM I've ever used - almost even more than foam earplugs.

 

What would happen if that amount of damping foam were placed in the cup of a headphone?  I presume there's a reason why nobody does this?

post #3656 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post




I was wondering if you were going to specify which side to use....wink_face.gif

 

Porous=breathe=mids
Hard=bounce=highs
post #3657 of 10561

For those that don't frequent the Ortho thread, here's some super cheap sound dampening dynamat/fatmat alternatives that nick n found and shared there. Cheap as in $1-2 for a square foot!! Sorry Nick but why keep it a secret :)

 

45 mil rubber butyl (~dynamat/fatmat) http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=5

80 mil rubber butyl http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=786

.25" closed cell neoprene http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=0&products_id=55

 

I'm going to try the eDead 45 in my cups I think

post #3658 of 10561

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnotherN00b View Post

For those that don't frequent the Ortho thread, here's some super cheap sound dampening dynamat/fatmat alternatives that nick n found and shared there. Cheap as in $1-2 for a square foot!! Sorry Nick but why keep it a secret :)

 

45 mil rubber butyl (~dynamat/fatmat) http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=5

80 mil rubber butyl http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=786

.25" closed cell neoprene http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=0&products_id=55

 

I'm going to try the eDead 45 in my cups I think


I thought it was important for the foam to be open-cell?

 

post #3659 of 10561

wink_face.gifI knew someone would be over there to look anyhow. At the time I had about 10 things open on the desktops. Saves me the effort of typing in both places, but then again look what I'm doing now haha!  Not sure how it compares pricewise after shipping is factored in.   Thanks for posting it in here!

 

I hope it works as well if not better. We'll find out I guess


Edited by nick n - 10/10/11 at 5:54pm
post #3660 of 10561
Did you keep your stock bass port felt in place or did you remove it before applying Paxmate or electrical tape? You can fine tune the bass. I found that closing off 3.5 or 3.75 slots without the stock felt or closing off 3 slots with the stock felt still in place worked best in my setups.

quote name="Questhate" url="/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/3630#post_7812979"]

 

So, I went and opened up one vent on the earcup while keeping everything else the same, and all of the lower mid bloom came back. It seems like closing off of the vents had the most dramatic effect on cleaning up the midrange. I tried closing the vent partially, but preferred it with everything closed.

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