Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 243

Quote:

Originally Posted by KneelJung 

I think the general consensus to eliminate the plasticky resonances is to dampen the baffle with blu tack, plasticine, or newplast. Some people have used dynamat but that stuff is sort of a pain in the ass IMO. A newer suggestion is tungsten putty but the consensus seems to be plasticine.

 

On the cup side the preferred method seems to be paxmate, but felt is a reasonable substitute, and several modders have used fiber fill or cotton too, as a dampener. 

 

Hmm...what about something like fiberglass?

...on second thought maybe that wouldn't be such a great idea.

Yeah we already went over fiberglass...

Quote:

Originally Posted by leeperry 

w/ binaural yes, as the whole room ambience has been captured...not quite the case w/ regular stereo recordings meant for speakers use, that need walls reflections in order to beef up their original SS. Create a thread in the science forum if you wanna keep on discussing about this if you like

Might I recommend the following thread for you.

I think it would be very beneficial for you to know exactly how these things work.

I have further improved the 840 pads, to match something like the D7000 and O2 pads, how they have such a sever angle, for example the D7000 have a 25mm back and a 12mm front. The JMoney pads for the D7000 are even bigger in size and users report a very open soundstage.

Previously to this mod I could only get a 20mm back and a 15mm front out of the 840 pads, now I'm getting a 35mm back and a 20mm front.

So I cut a thin circle out automotive vinyl and sewed a stitch (with a sewing machine) around the outer rim, then I stitched it to the 840 pads weaving the tread together by hand. It was extremely tight to get on, not a mod if you wish to take them off often, lol. I feel I have finished inside for now, so this is my final mod.

Impressions:

Improved sounstage, better bass definition, less midrange reflections.

Next stage: To aquire the SVS A8 Realiser to reduce all last reflections coming from the drivers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDMan 

I have further improved the 840 pads, to match something like the D7000 and O2 pads, how they have such a sever angle, for example the D7000 have a 25mm back and a 12mm front. The JMoney pads for the D7000 are even bigger in size and users report a very open soundstage.

 

Previously to this mod I could only get a 20mm back and a 15mm front out of the 840 pads, now I'm getting a 35mm back and a 20mm front.

 

So I cut a thin circle out automotive vinyl and sewed a stitch (with a sewing machine) around the outer rim, then I stitched it to the 840 pads weaving the tread together by hand. It was extremely tight to get on, not a mod if you wish to take them off often, lol. I feel I have finished inside for now, so this is my final mod.

 

Impressions:

 

Improved sounstage, better bass definition, less midrange reflections.

 

 

 

Next stage: To aquire the SVS A8 Realiser to reduce all last reflections coming from the drivers.

 

 

 

Can you post some picture plz 

http://www.smyth-research.com/products.html

Cool stuff

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDMan 

I have further improved the 840 pads, to match something like the D7000 and O2 pads, how they have such a sever angle, for example the D7000 have a 25mm back and a 12mm front. The JMoney pads for the D7000 are even bigger in size and users report a very open soundstage.

 

Previously to this mod I could only get a 20mm back and a 15mm front out of the 840 pads, now I'm getting a 35mm back and a 20mm front.

 

So I cut a thin circle out automotive vinyl and sewed a stitch (with a sewing machine) around the outer rim, then I stitched it to the 840 pads weaving the tread together by hand. It was extremely tight to get on, not a mod if you wish to take them off often, lol. I feel I have finished inside for now, so this is my final mod.

 

Impressions:

 

Improved sounstage, better bass definition, less midrange reflections.

 

 

 

Next stage: To aquire the SVS A8 Realiser to reduce all last reflections coming from the drivers.

 

 

 

that looks pretty hardcore.

OK, guys, I just did about four hours of A/B on the full RP2 with O2 pads vs. LCD-2 (v1, not v2).  

Conclusion?  The LCD-2 are definitely bested.  I think they actually have a bit of veiling in the mids, and the RP2 did a clearer rendition of voice, guitar, piano and string, with a faster attack and more presence in the upper mids/lower highs.  I never would have described the mids of the LCD2 as veiled, but I felt it today.  Mind you, this is not night and day, and someone could prefer the LCD-2 and not be blamed.  

At the top end, I think the RP2 does a better job on cymbals, and massed strings have more rosin-sound to them, and more bite.  The bass is really, really close between the two. 

Soundstage, equivalent.

Comfort: LCD-2 wins.  I have to try the LFF headband mod, too much pressure on a tiny spot on my head.

I can't wait for someone else to do the complete RP2 mod and give feedback.  I'm pretty proud of these, so who knows, maybe I'm just kidding myself.  I ran some sweep tones today and found no particular hotspots/dropouts, which is comforting after doing all this by ear.   Hennyo, hope you get some FatMat soon since you also have the LCD-2.

Note I updated photos in the OP.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrspeakers 

OK, guys, I just did about four hours of A/B on the full RP2 with O2 pads vs. LCD-2 (v1, not v2).  

 

Conclusion?  The LCD-2 are definitely bested.  I think they actually have a bit of veiling in the mids, and the RP2 did a clearer rendition of voice, guitar, piano and string, with a faster attack and more presence in the upper mids/lower highs.  I never would have described the mids of the LCD2 as veiled, but I felt it today.  Mind you, this is not night and day, and someone could prefer the LCD-2 and not be blamed.  

 

At the top end, I think the RP2 does a better job on cymbals, and massed strings have more rosin-sound to them, and more bite.  The bass is really, really close between the two. 

 

Soundstage, equivalent.

 

Comfort: LCD-2 wins.  I have to try the LFF headband mod, too much pressure on a tiny spot on my head.

 

I can't wait for someone else to do the complete RP2 mod and give feedback.  I'm pretty proud of these, so who knows, maybe I'm just kidding myself.  I ran some sweep tones today and found no particular hotspots/dropouts, which is comforting after doing all this by ear.   Hennyo, hope you get some FatMat soon since you also have the LCD-2.

 

Note I updated photos in the OP.

 

This is a bold post from an audio engineer with no financial interest in his findings. ^^ (especially since he already owns lcd-2.) Personally, I liked rev 2 more than rev 1. And RastPants T50rp above that. Btw, I think I'm making it to the Calfiornia Irvine meet from Salt Lake! Fellow Pantsmates unite!

I don't personally own the lcd-2, but I do know personally (address) 3 people in my neighborhood with recabled Lcd-2's. I've had extensive time with each the rev 1 and 2.

I have dynamat. ; ) Just don't want to rip out all my old foam and put new foam (I'm out of silverstone so it would be akasa) in.

My next set of T50 (As soon as I can find one) Gets O2 pads, blue dragon recable, and dynmat in the cups, and headband mod along with it's rastapants 2.

It will be fun to see a couple of you guys at the meet and measure these mods.

I can see it already  

Sitting side by side

T50RP VS LCD2

Who shall be victorious?

To be Continued.......

Will resume during the Irvine Meet

So, I went and opened up one vent on the earcup while keeping everything else the same, and all of the lower mid bloom came back. It seems like closing off of the vents had the most dramatic effect on cleaning up the midrange. I tried closing the vent partially, but preferred it with everything closed. The clear midrange is too good to sacrifice for the deep bass. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrspeakers 

Thanks for sharing your results.  Which ear pads are you using?  

 

With the O2 and 840 pads, the bass on these has more authority than the LCD-2.  It may be that you are not getting the bass because the stock pad has a very low air volume relative to the 840 and O2, but as I said, I have spent no time at all with stock pads.  This might change the "closed vent," which is mandatory with the wider/deeper pads.  You might try a pinprick or two, or opening one slit 1-2mm (no more, this is REALLY sensitive, and that might muddy the mid-bass).  

 

Also, when you add the extra mass to the back cup, dynamat or even plasticine, this will clean up the mids and mid bass a bit further. I don't find the soundstage on mine to be at all lacking.  

 

Anyone wanting to try this who doesn't have dynamat or fat mat can easily use plasticine.  It won't do quite as well, but it's easier to work with, and cheap.  

 

 

I'm actually using the 840 pads. If the bass on your setup has more authority than the LCD-2, then I must be doing something wrong along the way. Going back and forth, it's not even close. On acoustic stuff, like jazz, it's not quite as noticeable (although it still is). But the difference is truly pronounced when I fire up any electronic-based music, or hip-hop, or even rock music that uses electric bass (like Radiohead). The LCDs fill in more space with the deep bass rumble, while the Fostex feels a bit thin. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrspeakers 

 

I don't know the Dennon, but it's a safe bet these have deeper bass with less distortion than the dynamics would, though it would be less bass "heavy" than a real bass heads' phone would be.  If you're a huge bass head, you can always add EQ or open part of the vent, but this will cause lower mid emphasis too (most bass heavy phones I've heard end up doing that anyhow so if it is the sound you want you can get a huge increase in bass).  

Having owned all of the Denon D series over the past few years and recently sold the D5000 to a headfier I can state that the Fostex do not have more bass slam nor is it as deep as the D5000 which was always my personal favourite of all the Denons.

What the Fostex does have however is a better texture and refinement to the bass and it kicks in when it should and does not bleed into the mid-ranges as it does on occasion with the Denons causing them to be a bit recessed.

The Denon series were my favourite amongst all of the dynamics I owned or heard and are fantastic cans, however the T50RPs are superior in every aspect but do not have chest rumbling bass lines, though in my opinion the bass is better as its truer to recordings and appears more real to my ears.

Thanks for the feedback 
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by b0wl1ng 

Having owned all of the Denon D series over the past few years and recently sold the D5000 to a headfier I can state that the Fostex do not have more bass slam nor is it as deep as the D5000 which was always my personal favourite of all the Denons.

What the Fostex does have however is a better texture and refinement to the bass and it kicks in when it should and does not bleed into the mid-ranges as it does on occasion with the Denons causing them to be a bit recessed.

The Denon series were my favourite amongst all of the dynamics I owned or heard and are fantastic cans, however the T50RPs are superior in every aspect but do not have chest rumbling bass lines, though in my opinion the bass is better as its truer to recordings and appears more real to my ears.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Questhate 

Preeeettyy. o.O

Just make sure you put a little bit more plasticine on the driver housing too (as little plastic showing as possible). I also dimpled my clay around the baffle edge to look like acoustic foam.

are they (the vents) taped closed as well?

Lastly, the venting holes. ~ Check out how I've put the clay near and around the holes, but made sure not to cover them up. Then put the foam near them.

The last thing I'd take a second look at is the foam. The foam over the center dots is  bugging me. (=d) I would try it this way because it keeps the surface of the cup consistent. The way you have it draped may be causing discolorations? (slight?) Due to odd angle reflections?. I think it might mess with the sound-stage a little bit. And it might the mids from 700-1000hz-ish.

All in all though, very minor changes!

Make sure: 

• Masking tape vents.
• Plasticine on driver housing and dimple it if you can. (creates acoustic foam scenario within the clay-it scatters the sound waves/and absorbs them a little better). It will sound better.\
• Plasticine around the little venting holes. ; )

Me nitpicking, but I think it would help;

• I would definitely redo the silverstone on the pokey center plastic (flat rather than blanketed for creation of more space in the cup and consistancy.. Idk, it just seems acoustically right. =D

While minor things, I suspect they will in conjunction make a moderate-large difference. These should take about 5-10 minutes all in all to apply them. Please do!