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post #3481 of 10601

Bluemonkeyflier,

 

I modded my set to your specs last night minus the reflex dot (so far). From what I am hearing thus far, it is good. I am hearing more detail in the mids that I have ever heard on these phones with the stock white felt in place over the drivers. So, I am not so sure the 2 layers of Transpore actually do match the original fabric - so far to me they sound better, as the bass response improves while still allowing for more high frequency energy. The sound to me is more forward and warmer. I am using the stock pads with an extra layer of Paxmate to angle them, so that is a variable as well. Here is a pic of the back of one driver as well as the ear side showing the second layer of Paxmate. I may need to cut this back a bit.

 

I am A/B'ing this compared to my K501's. The areas in question are the mids and highs so far, which may be just a bit too forward for mids a a tad too recessed (highs). Hard to tell right now, as I have a headache, and will listen a bunch more later...

 

Driver:

 

IMG_6478.JPG
 

Earpad side:

 

IMG_6483.JPG

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

What works best for me is to have a reference set like a stock set of T50RP's, a favorite modded set, or LCD2's for comparison with my current modding analysis.  I choose 3 or 4 songs of different genres that I know very well.  I sound level match my reference and test cans with my SPL adapter for each song so I know where to set the volume knob on my Dacmini during comparisons.  I listen to certain sections that I am trying to tweak like a bass line, vocals, snares, or high hats and play the same segment for 30 to 90 seconds - and alternate from one set of cans to the other until I can discern the similarity or difference I am trying to tweak.  I repeat the process for each song and make notes when needed.  Then, I make one mod change and repeat the process...over and over and over until satisfied or frustrated.  I can open, mod, and close in 5 minutes, or less, depending on the difficulty level of the mod. Since I leave the plasticine and Paxmate mods constant, each mod is usually completed quickly. 

 

For example, today I compared 3M Nexcare flexible clear tape X layers X grid placement X reflex dot against my LCD2's.  Three hours later I have achieved the best I think I can accomplish with standard materials.  The LCD2's remain superior in every way from width of soundstage to airyness to clarity to bass quantity an quality.  I think I am at 85% of the LCD2's with my current mods to the T50RP's.  Considering they are semi-closed and the drivers are 1/3 the size of the LCD2's, I think that's a pretty good outcome.  In fact, if I compare stock T50RP's, the modded set sounds better and I can tell them apart when my wife does the old switcheroo test with me as the test subject.

 

Here's what I've got:

 

Plasticine and Paxmate in the usual places

Stock black bass port felt in place

Stock ear pads with 1 donut of Paxmate underneath

White driver felt removed

2 layers of 3M Nexcare flexible clear tape on entire back side of drivers

Individual squares of this tape at 2, 4, 6, and 8 grid spaces

Large reflex dot on center grid space

Stock cable

 

I tried every combination of tape layering and placement from 1 to 4; and 2 layers with individual grid spaces added in a cross, 2-4-6-8, 4 corners with and without the center space covered.  I think there is a curvilinear relationship with my setup and my ears: 2 layers is not enough; 3 to 4 layers is too much; and 2 layers with the 2,4,6,8 + center reflex dot = "The Goldilocks Zone."

 

I think I have exhausted the multiple permutations of these mods and extracted all the goodness I can; unless some of you good guys toss a banana or two!  I'm open and considering some different directions...

 

BMF 

 



 


Edited by CYoung234 - 10/5/11 at 4:18am
post #3482 of 10601

I think that your problem has something to do with the naked driver in the earside and maybe with the angling of the earpads. Try putting some 1mm craft felt over it, stuff other thing instead of the second layer of Paxmate and check if you don't have covered the EQ hole in the earside also.

post #3483 of 10601
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLaRe View Post

I think that your problem has something to do with the naked driver in the earside and maybe with the angling of the earpads. Try putting some 1mm craft felt over it, stuff other thing instead of the second layer of Paxmate and check if you don't have covered the EQ hole in the earside also.


Assuming you were replying to me, thanks. If you look closely in the second photo, the cutout tab on the top right is the EQ hole, which is uncovered. I believe as far as the "naked driver", that BMF is set up the same way, without any 1mm craft felt over his. I have never personally found this to be a problem before, but I can certainly try what you are suggesting.

 

post #3484 of 10601
Quote:
Originally Posted by CYoung234 View Post

Assuming you were replying to me, thanks. If you look closely in the second photo, the cutout tab on the top right is the EQ hole, which is uncovered. I believe as far as the "naked driver", that BMF is set up the same way, without any 1mm craft felt over his. I have never personally found this to be a problem before, but I can certainly try what you are suggesting.

 



I didn't quote your previous message because it was too long.

 

Take into account that we all have different ears and what is valid for one person might not be valid for other.

 

You don't lose anything trying with the craft felt in the earside, as it's a totally reversible mod.

 

post #3485 of 10601

^Agree. @CY234, let your ears be your guide as you try other (suggested) config.

post #3486 of 10601

@CYoung234 Also, you can try with a plastic bumper in the center of the driver instead of the transpore in that part and playing a bit with the bass vent tuning.

 

Other thing that comes to my mind is that maybe you have overdampened or underdampened the cups. Try one layer of 1 mm craft felt over the Paxmate in the cups and check if you like the sound. If you don't understand what I'm saying, look a few pages back and check the pics that I posted.

 

Personally, I have the stock felt in the driver intact with a plastic bumper as reflex dot and right now works perfect for me. I don't think that I will try any other materials until the O2 pads arrive in the mail next week and after checking how they affect the sound.

post #3487 of 10601
Quote:
Originally Posted by CYoung234 View Post

Bluemonkeyflier,

 

I modded my set to your specs last night minus the reflex dot (so far). From what I am hearing thus far, it is good. I am hearing more detail in the mids that I have ever heard on these phones with the stock white felt in place over the drivers. So, I am not so sure the 2 layers of Transpore actually do match the original fabric - so far to me they sound better, as the bass response improves while still allowing for more high frequency energy. The sound to me is more forward and warmer. I am using the stock pads with an extra layer of Paxmate to angle them, so that is a variable as well. Here is a pic of the back of one driver as well as the ear side showing the second ayer of Paxmate. I may need to cut this back a bit.

 

I am A/B'ing this compared to my K501's. The areas in question are the mids and highs so far, which may be just a bit too forward for mids a a tad too recessed (highs). Hard to tell right now, as I have a headache, and will listen a bunch more later...

 

Driver:

 

IMG_6478.JPG
 

Earpad side:

 

IMG_6483.JPG

 



 


Thanks for the report. I have the black dust cover over the ear side of the driver intact. I have one donut ring 1/2" in width directly under the ear pads.

I have tried 2 rings stacked on top of each other and taking up all ear side baffle real estate right up to the borders of the drivers. This essentially reduces the external cup volume when you wear them and did not work for me. This reinforced the fact, for me, that even small, apparently insignificant variables effect SQ and influence the effects of other mods.

You could try changing the donut width and height, and also try felt over the ear side of the driver as others have mentioned to see if these mods work for you or not. Do one at a time to isolate which variable is responsible for the change you hear, if any.
post #3488 of 10601

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psilocybe View Post

@BMF and Mrspeakers,Are you guys going to get FR graphs done for your 'phones? It'd be lovely to see how your mods look vs Smeggy's, LFF'sm, and Kneel Jung's (they're the only ones with FR graphs for their  modded T50RPs as far as I know). It's pretty impressive how close smeggy's looks to the LCD-2. Definitely gives you an indication of the type of sound signature he's getting.

 

Linky: http://www.innerfidelity.com/headphone-data-sheet-downloads

 

Kneel Jung's and the Thunderpants are on here.


Sorry for not wanting to dig back through the thread, but what mods did Kneel Jung do to his T50RP? Comparing the measurements of his modded T50RPs vs stock...there doesn't seem to be much of a difference at all. Just wondering how different they really do sound, as the graphs indicate that it wouldn't be a big difference at all. *waits for someone to say that measurements aren't everything*

 

Not saying I doubt the potential that these have! The Thunderpants measurements show that at least.

 

post #3489 of 10601

I'm.... buying O2... My justification is that regardless of where I go (Still perhaps LCD-2 or HD 800 in my future) these are still my main closed cans. And are perfect travel cans.

 

O2... Bleh. My consistant urge to deck out my cans is just to strong.. rolleyes.gif STOP ME from pressing the button!

post #3490 of 10601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

 

I had Performance Audio check their rep with me. End of October. Still no exact date.

 

^^Edit; Btw Dahm,You got the last one. ===dddd Congratulations!

<<--(I'm really crying inside)>>

 

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQpAN6KDvvujCnzOSrlHKuxxgG5U7VawbPS3oJZMebcQm1hIxmfj76lgVnn
 

 

post #3491 of 10601

I’m still confused on something using the stock cups.  Can we recable the drivers, so each driver has an independent cable coming out of the cup?  Basically omitting any stock wiring in the headphones.

 

If so, can the 3.5mm jack be removed, and if so what should it be filed in with?

 

I would like to make some wood cups, but alas I don't have a lathe.  Has anyone found a way to build them without a lathe?

post #3492 of 10601

I took the liberty of enumerating your questions
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by flynhawaiian View Post

1. I’m still confused on something using the stock cups.  Can we recable the drivers, so each driver has an independent cable coming out of the cup?  Basically omitting any stock wiring in the headphones.

 

2. If so, can the 3.5mm jack be removed, and if so what should it be filed in with?

 

3. I would like to make some wood cups, but alas I don't have a lathe.  Has anyone found a way to build them without a lathe?


And now the answers:

1.  Of course!  In fact, some purists will insist that this is the way to the best sound.  The method is intuitive.  You'll need to add holes to the cups, where the dual entry takes place.

 

2.  Removed, sure.  Filling it in would be simple.  If you're modding, you already have putty...

 

3.  I can't imagine a better way than a lathe, but hey... your only limit is your imagination.  Heck, you can even try to buy someone's Denon cups off them if building them seems too unrealistic an option, or if the various cupmakers here are too expensive.

 

post #3493 of 10601

So filling in the hole will have absolutely no effect on the sound then?  Can a mini-xlr panel mount jack be installed at the bottom of each side, while not effecting the sound or is it best to just solder right into the driver?  I’m guessing mic cable is still the best option to each phone?

 

I'm still waiting for the foam to arrive, so I’m trying to get things organized in my mind.

 

I couldn't think of another way than with a lathe.  Of course I just need a 1/4 motor, vfd, and a 4 point holder :)  Alas, my spare vfd is in hawaii.

post #3494 of 10601
Quote:
Originally Posted by flynhawaiian View Post
...

I couldn't think of another way than with a lathe.  Of course I just need a 1/4 motor, vfd, and a 4 point holder :)  Alas, my spare vfd is in hawaii.


Is there any reason the cups need to be circular? You could make rectangular cups with a saw and a router. Then sand down the corners to approximate the shape of the original cups. 

 

post #3495 of 10601

If you're interested in changing the cups you need to check out the Thunderpants! thread. It's based on Smeggy's official Thunderpants mod but populated mostly by DIYers trying all sorts of their own crazy variations using Fostex T50RP (and T40) drivers from PVC caps to paperstone cups. Of course there's plenty discussion of rewiring for dual entry, etc. too.
 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/501773/thunderpants

Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

Is there any reason the cups need to be circular? You could make rectangular cups with a saw and a router. Then sand down the corners to approximate the shape of the original cups. 

 



 

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