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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 127

post #1891 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMan View Post

Any tutorials to recabling the T50RP's?



Are you trying to get rid of that horrible cable plug at the cup end, or trying to recable for overall sonic quality?  If you're just trying to bypass the plug, it's quite easy.  If you're trying to fully recable them, then you're looking at a more serious project.

post #1892 of 10705

I am having issues with the cables as well.  Even after fidgeting of the cables, the L/R signals seems to be imbalanced.  I have cleaned the contacts, and it doesn't seem to do a thing.

 

Should I recable it, or is there an easier way out?

post #1893 of 10705
I am in the process of researching DIY cables. I want to do a quad Litz with 24 AWG SPC Teflon hook up wire, Neutrik TRS, and mini xlr's. Also 28 AWG double quad with 8 wires. Some I want naked and some with high quality "Bling" jackets akin to the stuff AudioQuest uses.

If anyone has recommendations for components and suppliers, I will be grateful.
post #1894 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by joelpearce View Post





Are you trying to get rid of that horrible cable plug at the cup end, or trying to recable for overall sonic quality?  If you're just trying to bypass the plug, it's quite easy.  If you're trying to fully recable them, then you're looking at a more serious project.



I am making a set of wooden cups, so I presumed I would have to change that plug in design cable, is this correct.

post #1895 of 10705

Yup, if you're making wooden cups, you will need to desolder the existing wires from the driver (carefully--many people have lost the thread doing this).  Then, you will have to create your own cables and set it up as a dual-entry headphone rather than a single-entry one.  Getting a nice looking y connector seems to be the hardest part of creating your own cables.

 

If you need more detailed instructions than that, there are a few of us that could give you additional tips/help.

post #1896 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by joelpearce View Post

Yup, if you're making wooden cups, you will need to desolder the existing wires from the driver (carefully--many people have lost the thread doing this).  Then, you will have to create your own cables and set it up as a dual-entry headphone rather than a single-entry one.  Getting a nice looking y connector seems to be the hardest part of creating your own cables.

 

If you need more detailed instructions than that, there are a few of us that could give you additional tips/help.



Some might find it a little easier to leave about a 1" "pigtail" on the driver by clipping the original lead instead of desoldering it. This gives you a little buffer to save you from having to solder those traces, which beginners may find challenging.

post #1897 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by joelpearce View Post

Yup, if you're making wooden cups, you will need to desolder the existing wires from the driver (carefully--many people have lost the thread doing this).  Then, you will have to create your own cables and set it up as a dual-entry headphone rather than a single-entry one.  Getting a nice looking y connector seems to be the hardest part of creating your own cables.

 

If you need more detailed instructions than that, there are a few of us that could give you additional tips/help.


 

A tutorial would be super, thanks.

post #1898 of 10705

if you solder to the existing wires, you'll need a metal clamp on it as a heat sink or the wire sleeve will melt away fast because you need to burn off the ceramic coating or whatever it is on the Fostex wires. Either way, it's a pain.

post #1899 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post

if you solder to the existing wires, you'll need a metal clamp on it as a heat sink or the wire sleeve will melt away fast because you need to burn off the ceramic coating or whatever it is on the Fostex wires. Either way, it's a pain.



Always use the heatshrink that has the rubber compound on the inside for soldering wires together. Makes the best seal.

post #1900 of 10705

I've had better luck with two stage epoxy and 3m double walled shrink tubing, the adhesive lined stuff doesn't adhere strong enough for my liking.


Edited by BattleBrat - 7/22/11 at 10:28pm
post #1901 of 10705

nothing like a good bush telegraph, heatsink - heatshrink and off we go, thanks for the chuckle ( been working tediously and needed a distraction ) ..dB

post #1902 of 10705

I'm trying to figure out how to go about wiring mini xlr's to a TRS plug for a T50RP DIY cable.  I wonder if I can follow the wiring diagram that came with my LCD2 with 4 runs of stranded wire in a Litz braid and 4-pin xlr's or is there a better method?  

 

I would appreciate information from experienced DIY cable makers about recommended brand/type/size and sources for wire, TRS and mini xlr plugs, heat shrink, and non-microphonic braided sleeving.

 

Many thanks for any help.

post #1903 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post


 

I'm sorry but this is as far as I got:

 

Many will not be able to adapt to the T50s laid back and closed cup sound and disregard them as awful and congested,..

 

If they are truly the anti Grado that's probably how I'm going to react.

 

Kudos to you and leepery for the impressions though, Ill be stepping out of your thread now.



It's probably poor form to quote yourself but this is where I left off when I last ventured in here quite a few months ago. I've reread the entire thread to this point and have a few pages to go eek.gif

 

Anyway,the Fed Ex guy came yesterday with my new toy. I've been busy these last few months tinkering with Grado's and picking up some DIY skills and as much as I love my Grado's the allure of a T50 has lingered in my consiousness for quite a while. My desire has ebbed and flowed but was brought back to full fury the other day by BotByte.

 

So sitting on my head and wrapped around my ears is the T50. I listened for about 1/2 an hour to 45 mins. to them yesterday before I went to work. It got one CD worth of burn in while I was at work, then I listened to Blood On The Tracks last night and some various other stuff before I let them run all night. My initial reaction was more meh than wow, but their not disappointing either. I had the same reaction to a pair of MS Pro's recently too until my brain acclimated itself to their signature.

 

I dont really find them laid back at all. The closed design isnt leading me to find them awful or congested either. At this point I prefer my Grado's but I haven't started tinkering with them yet either. I bought some Blue Stick at Home Depot today.

 

 blue stick.jpg

 

I'm assuming this is the same as Blue Tak to do this:

 

 t502.jpg

 

I bought this too:

 

surface guard.jpg

 

For use in here:

 

T50.jpg

 

But I'm not totally sure what to do with this area. Should I just do the Blue Stick first and listen for the changes that mod makes first. Also where do I get those 02 pads and what other pads are available?

post #1904 of 10705

KneelJung, I wrote in some detail on the Rastapants design and answered all your questions so suggest you search back in the thread for the rastapants entries.  I started using the work of Sachu and Smeggy and did what I felt was a good, inexpensive variant optimized around the Shure 840 ear pads.  

 

BTW, you'll want to dump BluTack for plasticine (modeling clay) or the much harder to work with dynamat.  

post #1905 of 10705
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrspeakers View Post

 

 

BTW, you'll want to dump BluTack for plasticine (modeling clay) or the much harder to work with dynamat.  


To late, my first cup:

 

t50 001.JPG

 

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