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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 123

post #1831 of 10878


i'm generally quite patient, but this is really testing it ... even considering the effects of the strike, it shouldn't be taking this long .. perhaps customs is tagging wood products for longer inspections or maybe they think it's rare, restricted wood? idk.

 

<edit: otoh, i just received my pre-production sunrise amp from garage1217 shipped from AZ via usps priority on june 13th; any other backlogged deliveries should be cleared up soon.>

Quote:
Originally Posted by joelpearce View Post




The same, around May 28.   I'm starting to get a bit anxious about it now.  I'm not sure if I'm ever going to have wooden cups for my Fostex--been working on it for a year now and things keep falling through.

 



 


Edited by geetarman49 - 7/7/11 at 2:35pm
post #1832 of 10878

Okay, apparently mine didn't actually ship out--which I can live with because of the strike.  Yeah, things seem to be moving pretty slow still.

post #1833 of 10878

Im about to break and buy these but I would like to know from anyone that listens to EDM how these fare with that genre. All this talk about beautiful mids makes me want to hear what Ive been missing, because I know mids are recessed in D2000s.

post #1834 of 10878

My POV is a truly good sounds great with anything because it is faithful to the music.  I do a lot of electronica listening, Younger Brother on at the moment, and they are fantastic.  Intense bass, clear and detailed mids, and a nice top end.  The bass has real heft without being bloated, and really sets up the beat very well.

post #1835 of 10878

Troubleshooting the mids:

 

Here's what I started with last week (Read further down about the mods I made today):

 

 

 

 

Here's my T50RP mod ; nothing here was my invention:

 

IMG_0101.JPG

 

1. Separate ear pads from double back sticky tack.

2. Remove 4 outside screws that hold on the baffle.

3. Carefully separate baffle from cup making sure to not stress the delicate solder points.

4. Fill holes in back of baffles with art supply plasticine clay (Claytoons 483 g.) and punch holes with screwdriver.

5. Cut off just enough stock damping felt over bottom vent to expose 1 vent slot; I used an Xacto knife.

6. Cut pieces of Akasa Paxmate Plus to cover the bottom of the cups.

7. Put back together.

 

I cut away the dust cover on the front of the drivers.  This made no difference in SQ; probably because it is very thin and very permeable.  I ordered replacements from Full Compass.

_______________________________________________________________

 

I was not satisfied with the veiled mids so I added:

 

1. Paxmate Plus on walls of cups.

2. 1/16" art supply felt over ear side of baffles to cover the naked drivers.

3. Paxmate Plus on ear side of baffle surrounding the driver.

4. Salvaged ear side baffle dust cover I previously cut away place on inside of cups covering 3 of 4 cup vent slots.

5. Wool felt square over back of drivers, leaving vent open.

 

The bass and treble were attenuated with these changes and the mids remained veiled.

 

So, today I:

 

1. Removed paxmate from the interior cup walls.

2. Removed felt from ear side of driver and left them naked.

3. Removed Paxmate Plus from false cup vent on inside floor (top) of cups.

4. Placed reflex dot of Paxmate Plus over cup screw housing on inside of cups in line with center driver square.

5. Covered 3 of 4 cup vent slots with stock black felt that came with the cans.

6. Left Paxmate Plus around ear side perimeter of drivers.

7. Removed wool felt from back of drivers.  

 

I believe 1, 2, 3, and/or 7 (above) reduced driver's freedom of movement, over-damped the cups, and contributed to muffled SQ across frequencies.

 

With these mods, the bass now has authority, texture, and extension; the treble is unveiled and well extended, and the mids cleared a bit but are still veiled - slightly muffled.  I am hesitant to make any more non-reversible mods such as cutting away the white stock felt on the back of the drivers.

 

I am interested if anyone has encountered this problem and discovered a solution. 

 


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 7/9/11 at 9:06am
post #1836 of 10878

I found that the mids improved with thick felt over the back of the driver and that crappy white stuff gone. 

post #1837 of 10878
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Troubleshooting the mids:

 

Here's what I started with last week (Read further down about the mods I made today):

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhaedraCorruption View Post

I found that the mids improved with thick felt over the back of the driver and that crappy white stuff gone. 


BlueMonkey, I tweeked endlessly until I screwed up the courage to cut out the white felt.  Until then, I kept making improvements but after extended listening something would bug me and feel out of balance.  Losing the white felt and replacing it with a stiff and thicker felt had a dramatic improvement in sound.  

 

You will definitely want the Akasa back in there, and also to cover up most of the port when you make this mod.  Switching to the 840 earpads are also a big step up.

 

post #1838 of 10878

Hey Guys,

 

Thanks for the tips and encouragement.  Prior to reading your posts, above, I did non-blind comparisons between Stock T50RP, Modded T50RP, and Audeze LCD2.  I soon removed the LCD2 from the equation because it just wasn't fair and was confounding the "experiment."  I settled on removing the Paxmate Plus from around the drivers on the ear side pretty much because I just didn't want to take them apart for the 43rd time (I did not actually count; probably more!).  Eureka!  That did the trick for me.  The bass cleaned up and no longer bled over into the mids; thus the veil over the mids was lifted.  

 

I may try removing the white stuff on the next mod.

 

Many thanks to all.

 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrspeakers View Post




BlueMonkey, I tweeked endlessly until I screwed up the courage to cut out the white felt.  Until then, I kept making improvements but after extended listening something would bug me and feel out of balance.  Losing the white felt and replacing it with a stiff and thicker felt had a dramatic improvement in sound.  

 

You will definitely want the Akasa back in there, and also to cover up most of the port when you make this mod.  Switching to the 840 earpads are also a big step up.

 



 

post #1839 of 10878

I used the LCD-2 as a tonal reference.  While I never got the same black-space and extreme detail, the sound became relatively close, like a lower priced sibling.  There's just one area in the upper midbass I'd like to tune down on the T50 now but I really don't mind taking off the LCD-2 and putting the T50 on...

post #1840 of 10878
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Hey Guys,

 

Thanks for the tips and encouragement.  Prior to reading your posts, above, I did non-blind comparisons between Stock T50RP, Modded T50RP, and Audeze LCD2.  I soon removed the LCD2 from the equation because it just wasn't fair and was confounding the "experiment."  I settled on removing the Paxmate Plus from around the drivers on the ear side pretty much because I just didn't want to take them apart for the 43rd time (I did not actually count; probably more!).  Eureka!  That did the trick for me.  The bass cleaned up and no longer bled over into the mids; thus the veil over the mids was lifted.  

 

I may try removing the white stuff on the next mod.

 

Many thanks to all.

 


 



 


hmmm, interesting. The opposite of the usual advice. Perhaps the Akasa is affecting the mids directly also
post #1841 of 10878
I left the Paxmate Plus On the bottom inside the cups. I removed Paxmate from around the drivers on the ear side.
Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 7/9/11 at 7:16pm
post #1842 of 10878
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

I left the Paxmate Plus On the bottom inside the cups. I removed Paxmate from around the drivers on the ear side.


The ear-side paxmate trick was one I developed after removing the white felt...  

post #1843 of 10878
Seems every mod has multiple interaction effects on other mods. Probably have to do a multiple analysis of variance to sort it all out! LOL
post #1844 of 10878

it definitely is a complicated process, you are right about every component being an added variable. The muffled-ness you heard is more likely due to felt behind the driver along with the stock white stuff, that will make it more muffled and did not do much for the SQ, once the white felt is gone you can add stiff felt, but be sure that it is STIFF and well secured, otherwise it too will be just muffling. The akasa on the back will cause the cans to be quieter, no doubt, but that is because of the reduced reflections and not because of over damping IMO, if you really think it is overdamping, I put plasticine on the back of the cups and dimpled it with a small philips head, causing it to look something like an anachoic chamber. It still dampens, but not as well as the akasa, it may be what you like though, it does not sound bad. I also think the stock felt in the front is muffling, I took it out and used the srh840 pads with their stock felt (which breaths well, but tones down the sharp highs) and that works well for me.

 

at some point you will sit down and listen to them for an extended period and say: "I like this" and the modding will be pretty much over, I am at that place until further notice.

post #1845 of 10878

I am happy to say I am at that place.  ~ 80% to 85% of LCD2 SQ.  I'm done.  Not bad for $75 + $5 mod supplies.  

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