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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 118

post #1756 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by b0wl1ng View Post


These fantastic (modded) T50s are unique,spectacular in the mids and now have more headtime than all of my high end cans put together including the HD650s and Denons, they continue to impress.

I am now running them through a Meier Stepdance with an external linear power supply, had a few Midtastic eargasms last night listening to Coldplay, Paul Simon and REM , what a marvel they are.   
 



 


What mods?
post #1757 of 10561

I posted this on the Orthodynamic Roundup thread which is huge.  I thought it might be helpful to someone following this thread.

 

 

FYI:  I contacted the Fostex distributor about replacement parts for the T50RP.  They have updated their system to allow us to order replacement parts from companies that sell their products.  I've been in contact with Full Compass and their Customer Service department has been very helpful and responsive (Thank you, Nancy!).  I'm ordering replacement dust covers for the outside of the baffles for $6 and change, each, for the ones I cut off.  You can order the driver for $69.95 and the driver gasket for $7.50.  You can order the entire headphone from Full Compass or B&H Photo for $75.

 

Here's a link to the T50RP exploded parts list:

 

 

 
post #1758 of 10561

Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Here's a link to the T50RP exploded parts list:

 

https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment?ui=2&ik=82be55f50e&view

 

linkee no workee redface.gif

post #1759 of 10561

Okay, this picture sucks but you can get the idea. Last night I had my tps apart and one of the solder beads just poped off of the driver. Anyone think it can be fixed? I was going to try to glue it back and add some moresolder to make sure it was still touching the leads.668bbaaa_rs1_for_sale012.jpg

post #1760 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post


i uh... have no problem with comfort when it comes to the stock ones. No problem at all, but I have a wide head and my ears are high, I hardly have to put down the cups, only a centimeter or two. So, that might have something to do with it all. I also bent the headband a bit


Really?  I can't stand the comfort stock.  They might be some of the most uncomfortable 'phones I've ever had until you put some padding on the headband at least.

post #1761 of 10561

It can be fixed but you have to tread carefully = the tab has pulled off the copper trace that connects the wire to the rest of the trace so you have to expose some of the copper traces where it pulled off. If you think you can solder this , this would be the best way but it requires a temperature controlled iron and speedy / accurate application. The alternate is to mix up some epoxy with metal fillings and make a conductive glue to stick it back onto the newly exposed traces. 

 

good luck ..dB

 

 

also if some of you are interested in more of Tyll's measurements of vintage orthos - here is his assessment of my headphones at innerfidelity 


Edited by dBel84 - 7/1/11 at 11:50am
post #1762 of 10561

If this image is too small to read, send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward a full size .pdf image.

 

 

Fostex T50RP Exploded Parts.png

post #1763 of 10561


I dont know if I can do this. How would i expose some more copper?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

It can be fixed but you have to tread carefully = the tab has pulled off the copper trace that connects the wire to the rest of the trace so you have to expose some of the copper traces where it pulled off. If you think you can solder this , this would be the best way but it requires a temperature controlled iron and speedy / accurate application. The alternate is to mix up some epoxy with metal fillings and make a conductive glue to stick it back onto the newly exposed traces. 

 

good luck ..dB

 

 

also if some of you are interested in more of Tyll's measurements of vintage orthos - here is his assessment of my headphones at innerfidelity 



 

post #1764 of 10561

I used a scalpel blade and gently scraped the top layer off ..dB

post #1765 of 10561

sorry for the crude drawing but its what i have a t work... So I want to try to scrape some of the top layer off of the trace closest to the ripped off pad? Will i see the copper?

668bbaaa_rs1_for_sale012.jpg

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

I used a scalpel blade and gently scraped the top layer off ..dB



 

post #1766 of 10561

That is the region that needs to be exposed - just below the surface coat are the copper traces  ..dB


Edited by dBel84 - 7/1/11 at 1:48pm
post #1767 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post

sorry for the crude drawing but its what i have a t work... So I want to try to scrape some of the top layer off of the trace closest to the ripped off pad? Will i see the copper?


After you get it fixed, tack the wire down with some hot glue or something so you don't have to worry about them popping off again.

post #1768 of 10561
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

That is the region that needs to be exposed - just below the surface coat are the copper traces  ..dB

Quote:
Originally Posted by maverickronin View Post


After you get it fixed, tack the wire down with some hot glue or something so you don't have to worry about them popping off again.

I will give it a shot this weekend.
post #1769 of 10561

^ that happened to me the last time i opened up my tp's to recable them. Just do a bit of scraping and gob on some flux and try to get your solder to flow into the scrapes. It'l work but it might take a few tries.

 

M

post #1770 of 10561

Heard a lot about bad cable issues with t50rp.

Does a custom made cable will solve that problem?

For example, canare L-2e5 with TRS to right angle 3.5 plugs.

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