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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 696

post #10426 of 10678

Yeah, ive been reading some of it. Is the digital scale a must have? Also, do I have to get all these materials online? Or should most craft/retailers have them?

post #10427 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by oakleyguy89 View Post

Yeah, ive been reading some of it. Is the digital scale a must have? Also, do I have to get all these materials online? Or should most craft/retailers have them?

A $20 digital scale from Amazon makes life easier for channel balancing but not necessarily required. Creatology stiff felt and 3M double sided tape from Michaels craft store. Cotton balls from the drug store. Thin card stock from a toothpaste box. Silverstone acoustic open cell foam and Shure pads from Amazon. Masking tape, mini screwdriver set, and J&M fiberglass from Lowes.
post #10428 of 10678

I'm sure there are members here that are willing to part with some of their leftover materials for a small fee.  

post #10429 of 10678

My T50RP arrived 2 days ago, (order inspired by Magicman's 40 hr mod session) they didn't seem as bad out of the box as I feared - got some idea of how they could sound by cupping my hands around the cups and applying pressure.

I took them home that evening and, after staring at them for a while, decided to take them apart.  

I loaded the baffle etc. with modelling clay, sealed most of the vent grill, stuck some foam in the cups, put in some fluffed cotton balls - and I'd had enough (tweak energy dissipated in an hour) - screwed them back together and fitted 840 pads. 

I might only be half way to max sound-wise (or maybe I got lucky) but damn they sound good, spent the rest of the evening until late listening to music with them.

I took them back into work the next day, a teenage Beats fan had a listen and "Oh,wow" was his wide-eyed response. 

 

I'd like to thank all T50 mod contributors for leading me to this (maybe I'll try harder one day).

post #10430 of 10678
I've noticed that several of the mods shown here have indentations in the plasticine that look like they were made by a Phillips screwdriver. Just wondering if there is a benefit to these or whether they were done to press the plasticine down into the cavities.
post #10431 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by cottonchipper View Post
 
I've noticed that several of the mods shown here have indentations in the plasticine that look like they were made by a Phillips screwdriver. Just wondering if there is a benefit to these or whether they were done to press the plasticine down into the cavities.

 

It was thought that the indentations in the plasticine would help disperse internal cup reflections and improve sound quality. In reality, indentations do nothing for SQ. Chalk it up to urban legend or superstition; but it looks cool and adds a bit of "craftiness" to the process. If you use these materials, you can press it down with your fingers and smooth the tops with a small putty knife or blade. Be sure to leave an opening in the Left Cup for the jack. 

 

It was believed that the baffle resonates from driver vibrations and needs extra mass to prevent distortion. I am convinced that using "custom cut" pieces of Paxmate, Silverstone, or other types of foam in the baffle compartments work just as well or better than plasticine and Newplast. Plasticine/Newplast add a little more mass to the driver but offer no absorption benefits. Acoustic foam absorbs reflections.

 

Foam *may* benefit SQ by increasing internal pressure, further damping the diaphragm. Note, that "non-drying" clay like plasticine will, in fact, dry and pull away from the baffle compartments, given enough time. I have not seen this with Newplast.  Newplast and plasticine, in particular, are difficult to completely remove from the baffles if you decide to take it out. There is no benefit to filling the little holes around the driver perimeter. 

 

Do Not use "bake to dry" clay because some of them are known to react with the ABS plastic cups and baffles. ABS plastic will literally melt and crumble. Lock-Tite does the same thing.

 

The driver is solidly mounted on a baffle with 2 large snap tabs on the rear side and 3 screws on the baffle face. The baffle is made rigid by its partitions. The stock design de-couples the driver from the baffle with a foam gasket And very effectively decouples the baffle from the cup with 4 rubber-capped "shock absorbers." The rubber caps align with four corner screws that hold the two halves of the driver together. The "tongue-and-groove" design of the baffle-to-cup rim makes a complete seal if the cup threads have not been stripped. Removing the rubber caps and adding material to the groove around the cup likely defeats the seal and mechanical damping benefits of the stock design.


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 12/6/13 at 4:49pm
post #10432 of 10678

Okay, add me to the list of The Convinced.  My stock T50RP's arrived today and I gave them a quick listen before plunging in and modifying.  The difference is amazing.  I've been listening to some Bose noise-cancelling headphones that are a few years old (QC 2 maybe?).  When I compare the modified T50RP's to the Bose, the Bose have more bass, but it sounds muddier and the midrange and highs just aren't there with the Bose like they are in the T50RP's.  I left the stock white felt alone but added a rubber furniture bumper on a small square of Scotch transparent tape in the center of the driver.

 

Okay, on to my next project, buying or building an Objective 2 amp to power these things.:wink_face:

post #10433 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

The driver is solidly mounted on a baffle with 2 large snap tabs on the rear side and 3 screws on the baffle face. The baffle is made rigid by its partitions. The stock design de-couples the driver from the baffle with a foam gasket And very effectively decouples the baffle from the cup with 4 rubber-capped "shock absorbers." The rubber caps align with four corner screws that hold the two halves of the driver together. The "tongue-and-groove" design of the baffle-to-cup rim makes a complete seal if the cup threads have not been stripped. Removing the rubber caps and adding material to the groove around the cup likely defeats the seal and mechanical damping benefits of the stock design.

geeze i forgot about those they are long gone.  Maybe next builld ( shudder ) i should try to keep them.

post #10434 of 10678

Out of the box these sounded better than I thought they would. I like them more than my brainwavz hm5's to be honest. I can't wait to get these modded.

post #10435 of 10678

I think Fostex did some minor changes to the T50RP a couple years back. I remember the first pair I got was just weird sounding. The 2nd pair I got later sounded much nicer out of the box. I could not get into the HM5...just a funky, weird sound. You should find even a simply modded T50RP to be noticeably better.

post #10436 of 10678

I'm working on the idea of combining the stock ear pads with a set of Shure 840's.  I've removed the stock pads, replaced them with the 840's and then layered the old stock pads on top of the 840's, temporarily attached with masking tape.  I like the way they sound, but haven't decided how to permanently attach the stock pads on top of the 840's, not that I'm above leaving the masking tape until I figure out something more elegant looking.  I may try sewing them together.  I'd try a hot glue gun but am afraid of melting the black vinyl.

 

I can't seem to figure out how to insert a picture, but here's a link to a picture, which also shows the headband strap I made from an old belt and a shoulder pad from a carry-on bag.

 

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i27/cottonchipper/doublepads_zpse4356647.jpg~original

post #10437 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by cottonchipper View Post

I'm working on the idea of combining the stock ear pads with a set of Shure 840's.  I've removed the stock pads, replaced them with the 840's and then layered the old stock pads on top of the 840's, temporarily attached with masking tape.  I like the way they sound, but haven't decided how to permanently attach the stock pads on top of the 840's, not that I'm above leaving the masking tape until I figure out something more elegant looking.  I may try sewing them together.  I'd try a hot glue gun but am afraid of melting the black vinyl.

I can't seem to figure out how to insert a picture, but here's a link to a picture, which also shows the headband strap I made from an old belt and a shoulder pad from a carry-on bag.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i27/cottonchipper/doublepads_zpse4356647.jpg~original

Check out mrscotchguy's pad stacking posts.
post #10438 of 10678
Thanks! I knew I couldn't have been the first one to think of that.
post #10439 of 10678

Just got these and been listening for a couple of hours.  Dell PC foobar/jplay->Audioengine D3->Kora Crescendo-> T50RPs.  They don't come with the stupid 8.5mm to 3.5mm adapter.  So, I have no choice but to use the headphone out on my preamp.  I ordered a V-Moda cable. 

 

The sample I have has some problems.  Right channel sometimes lose signal.  Disconnecting and reconnecting the cable from the left ear cup helps a bit but sometimes still cuts out intermittently.  So, this guy has to go back eventually. 

 

I'd imagine these are boring to some especially if they ar using this headphone for gaming.  But, I like the mids.  I wonder whether the mods spoken about will add to or subtract from the liquidy mids.  Definitely need to control the splashy highs.  Or, maybe these will take care of itself after some burn in.

 

I recently also purchased a DT990 pro and a DT1350.  And, the Fostex's definitely sounds best straight out of the box.

post #10440 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by viggen View Post

Just got these and been listening for a couple of hours.  Dell PC foobar/jplay->Audioengine D3->Kora Crescendo-> T50RPs.  They don't come with the stupid 8.5mm to 3.5mm adapter.  So, I have no choice but to use the headphone out on my preamp.  I ordered a V-Moda cable. 

The sample I have has some problems.  Right channel sometimes lose signal.  Disconnecting and reconnecting the cable from the left ear cup helps a bit but sometimes still cuts out intermittently.  So, this guy has to go back eventually. 

I'd imagine these are boring to some especially if they ar using this headphone for gaming.  But, I like the mids.  I wonder whether the mods spoken about will add to or subtract from the liquidy mids.  Definitely need to control the splashy highs.  Or, maybe these will take care of itself after some burn in.

I recently also purchased a DT990 pro and a DT1350.  And, the Fostex's definitely sounds best straight out of the box.

Channel drops is a known, common problem. Clean the jack and plugs with alcohol or De-Oxit.

Sparkly highs? Treble and bass roll off fast. These are very mid centric with inverted U shape FR. It's certainly possible to improve FR without messing up the liquid smooth mids.
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