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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 692

post #10366 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by a_recording View Post

 

I actually cannot tell where the shock absorbers are meant to make contact with the baffle. They don't seem high enough to me for them to touch the stock driver configuration. Have you ever observed how it works? 

 

The rubber caps align and make contact with the screw heads at the driver frame corners.

post #10367 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

The rubber caps align and make contact with the screw heads at the driver frame corners.

 

Ah! Well, as long as the driver frame is in the exact same position as on the original baffle there should be no issues there. This should be the case with my part but I will double check tomorrow.

 

Had a bit of listening time with it today and I was enjoying it but I am definitely getting a high frequency peak there (which seems to be characteristic of the stock T50RP too) that I would love to get rid of.

 

I am trying to see how much I can change the sound of the T50RP using fully consistent and reversible 3D printed parts.

post #10368 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by a_recording View Post

 

Ah! Well, as long as the driver frame is in the exact same position as on the original baffle there should be no issues there. This should be the case with my part but I will double check tomorrow.

 

Had a bit of listening time with it today and I was enjoying it but I am definitely getting a high frequency peak there (which seems to be characteristic of the stock T50RP too) that I would love to get rid of.

 

I am trying to see how much I can change the sound of the T50RP using fully consistent and reversible 3D printed parts.

 

Aside from trying various materials, internally and ear side, I wonder if the cup and baffle design can be changed to reduce the 10 kHz peak? For example, what effects may result from altering the cup shape, cup depth (and increasing the height of the shock absorber posts to compensate for greater cup depth), changing the cup floor topography, adding cup floor and baffle diffusers, etc.?

post #10369 of 10570

*coughs*

Don't forget custom pads guys.

post #10370 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck99 View Post

Thank you for being a valuable member with a worthwhile contribution to make.
 


Well, I've listened to these headphones and they were all mids and not much else - not impressed.

post #10371 of 10570

what was in the ones you heard?

post #10372 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schonen View Post


Well, I've listened to these headphones and they were all mids and not much else - not impressed.

this is why people modify it, you can mess around to get highs and lows but there really isnt anything you can do to get mids, so with strong mids the potential is almost endless.

post #10373 of 10570
Guess he has no clue why this thread is so uber long tongue.gif
Though it has slown down considerably lately.
post #10374 of 10570

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by siles1991 View Post

this is why people modify it, you can mess around to get highs and lows but there really isnt anything you can do to get mids, so with strong mids the potential is almost endless.

We did modify them and we followed someone's guide from this site. Could barely tell a difference. Neither me nor my friend cared for them much but he doesn't regret the purchase. He did like the ATH-M50s that I traded to him much better though.

 

"what was in the ones you heard?"

 

Blue tack and cotton batten.

 

I do have a clue and that is why I said it is hype. It's like people claiming HD598 sound a lot better than HD595 when they don't. I've had both of those headphones and they sound pretty much identical. More hype!


Edited by Schonen - 9/2/13 at 5:53am
post #10375 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schonen View Post

 

We did modify them and we followed someone's guide from this site. Could barely tell a difference. Neither me nor my friend cared for them much but he doesn't regret the purchase. He did like the ATH-M50s that I traded to him much better though.

 

"what was in the ones you heard?"

 

Blue tack and cotton batten.

than you have to be doing something wrong...the sound is literally different with each addition of material inside. There is an incremental thread with graphs for almost every material used. Pads and everything. But I guess to each his own...the biggest change would be changing the pads which i'd recommend. If you really want to hear the difference everyone does follow the bluemonkeyflyer DBV #3 guide


Edited by siles1991 - 9/2/13 at 6:03am
post #10376 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

Aside from trying various materials, internally and ear side, I wonder if the cup and baffle design can be changed to reduce the 10 kHz peak? For example, what effects may result from altering the cup shape, cup depth (and increasing the height of the shock absorber posts to compensate for greater cup depth), changing the cup floor topography, adding cup floor and baffle diffusers, etc.?

I suspect the 10-11 kHz peak is due to driver's dimensions, not the cup..

post #10377 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevod View Post

I suspect the 10-11 kHz peak is due to driver's dimensions, not the cup..

 

I rather suspect that too. I can't imagine a square driver is the best in terms of producing a natural wavefront.

post #10378 of 10570

guys any ideas on how to cleanly solder wires onto the drivers without leaving too much of a mess? I don't want to use the jacks because they tend to get loose easily.

post #10379 of 10570

leave a small "pigtail" or length of the original wiring still attached to the drivers to solder onto, instead of trying to solder to the driver board itself, unless you are really good at soldering. Even then you can warp that area.  Just an easy option and leaves you room for a few screwups just in case..


Edited by nick n - 9/3/13 at 3:05am
post #10380 of 10570
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

leave a small "pigtail" or length of the original wiring still attached to the drivers to solder onto, instead of trying to solder to the driver board itself, unless you are really good at soldering. Even then you can warp that area.  Just an easy option and leaves you room for a few screwups just in case..

Well the driver part is easy actually all you have to do is add some solder on your point than set it gently upon the old solder and just wait for it to melt than quickly add your wire inside and lift off the solder point and blow on it so it will quickly cool. Won't even need to touch the fragile part xD i'm thinking more of the cable entry into the cups.

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