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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 691

post #10351 of 10610

Gorgeous...and ingenious. Cool ideas and use of materials.

post #10352 of 10610

Incredible

post #10353 of 10610
Very impressive work !
post #10354 of 10610
Very cool! I love the open/closed design and the mottled light/dark wood. Great wood work!

Is it a large difference in sound between open and closed or does the headphone retain the character of the sound ?
post #10355 of 10610
Quote:
Originally Posted by zach915m View Post

Is it a large difference in sound between open and closed or does the headphone retain the character of the sound ?

 

Basically, the increased volume of the cup interiors makes modding easy and quick, since access is via the back of the cup by sliding the mesh or wood disc out or in.

I have voiced this set to sound similar to my Brainwavz B2, which I used as a reference. I had to apply fairly tense damping. I prefer the open setup, because it sounds more linear across the FR spectrum, whereas the closed setup brings up the 3.5kHz a bit and makes them a little more forward sounding, similar to the Sennheiser HD600.

post #10356 of 10610

Hey, what awg cable is inside the cable in the T50RP?

post #10357 of 10610

Just started a 3D printing thread, and one of the first projects I'm working on is Fostex T50RP baffles.

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/679185/the-3d-printer-thread-d#post_9752536

 

I've made the part available for download, and you should be able to use it to design your own replacement baffles for various headphones...

 

post #10358 of 10610

So I managed to successfully print the revised baffle as detailed in my thread:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/679185/the-3d-printer-thread-d#post_9752572

 

 

 

 

Quote:

Compared to the stock pair of T50RP's I have on hand (with Shure 840 pads), these baffles remove a lot of the mid-bass bloat and to my ears make the T50RP sound more natural.

 

The sound should be similar, but entirely the same as blocking the baffle side vent and using Shure 840 pads as suggested by bluemonkeyflyer's awesome T50RP modding thread.

 

 

Again here are the differences between the stock baffle and my 3D printed part:

 

- The baffle is now completely flat, removing the lip that causes unecessary stress on smaller earcups like the Shure SRH840

- The baffle does not have a baffle side port like the stock baffle which should improve low frequency response as per bluemonkeyflyer's measurements

- The retaining ring of the baffle now extends far into the earcup. This provides additional bracing to the baffle, making it more rigid, as well as improving the seal between the earcup and baffle

- The baffle is now completely flush with the lip of the earcup, again improving the seal between the baffle and earcup.

- There is no longer an additional layer of damping material between the T50RP driver and the Shure 840's earpad felt.

- Most interior edges of the baffle have been eliminated or reduced to curved surfaces to prevent interaction with sound waves


Edited by a_recording - 8/30/13 at 7:20pm
post #10359 of 10610

Fantastic!! What 3D printer do you have?

post #10360 of 10610

I bought an UP! Mini 3D :) One of the cheapest 3D printers you can buy with a very small build platform (12cm x 12cm  x 12cm) but just enough to print off a baffle of this size :)

 

I wrote up a little mini guide to 3D printing in that thread if you are curious about the specifics.

post #10361 of 10610

Still too much for me haha.

post #10362 of 10610
Quote:
Originally Posted by a_recording View Post

I bought an UP! Mini 3D :) One of the cheapest 3D printers you can buy with a very small build platform (12cm x 12cm  x 12cm) but just enough to print off a baffle of this size :)

 

I wrote up a little mini guide to 3D printing in that thread if you are curious about the specifics.

I posted a question on your 3D Printer :D thread. 

 

I forgot to ask whether or not the undersurface of your 3D printed baffles make contact with the cups' 4 shock absorber rubber caps. I think they were designed to serve as a de-coupling mechanism.

 

Great work!

post #10363 of 10610
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

I posted a question on your 3D Printer :D thread. 

 

I forgot to ask whether or not the undersurface of your 3D printed baffles make contact with the cups' 4 shock absorber rubber caps. I think they were designed to serve as a de-coupling mechanism.

 

Great work!

 

I actually cannot tell where the shock absorbers are meant to make contact with the baffle. They don't seem high enough to me for them to touch the stock driver configuration. Have you ever observed how it works? 

 

(Replied btw)


Edited by a_recording - 8/31/13 at 7:45am
post #10364 of 10610
Quote:
Originally Posted by a_recording View Post

 

I actually cannot tell where the shock absorbers are meant to make contact with the baffle. They don't seem high enough to me for them to touch the stock driver configuration. Have you ever observed how it works? 

 

The rubber caps align and make contact with the screw heads at the driver frame corners.

post #10365 of 10610
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

The rubber caps align and make contact with the screw heads at the driver frame corners.

 

Ah! Well, as long as the driver frame is in the exact same position as on the original baffle there should be no issues there. This should be the case with my part but I will double check tomorrow.

 

Had a bit of listening time with it today and I was enjoying it but I am definitely getting a high frequency peak there (which seems to be characteristic of the stock T50RP too) that I would love to get rid of.

 

I am trying to see how much I can change the sound of the T50RP using fully consistent and reversible 3D printed parts.

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