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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 688

post #10306 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

I'm pretty sure I've read that people have melted the diaphragm before when trying to attach wires to the pads. I'm not exactly going to test it out myself rolleyes.gif
 Any driver transplants that I've done, I've always left a bit of the original wire attached and just soldered to those. 

I mean, it's just a plastic after all. I'm very surprised that it didn't melt anything... or if it did, it was too small to be noticeable. 

Kapton my friends, kapton... used for space suits.
post #10307 of 10820

Noob Question. Is it possible to add another driver inside the plastic housing? how would it affect its sound? 

post #10308 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by arbiche View Post

Noob Question. Is it possible to add another driver inside the plastic housing? how would it affect its sound? 

It is possible, but it's entirely against common thought. General opinion is that the T50RP has great drivers that are limited by the stock plastic housing, not the other way around. While it is possible to make different drivers sound good in a T50RP housing, it's much easier to modify or completely change out the housing to make the stock drivers sing.

 

As towards how new drivers would affect the sound, it all depends on the driver you choose.

 

Finally, if you are asking about having more than one driver per ear (which is one way your question can be interpreted), I'd advise against it. Multi-driver headphones, while possible and occasionally produced, generally just end up sounding congested and are inferior to standard two-driver cans.

post #10309 of 10820

For Science sake.. have anybody tried adding another driver inside the plastic housing behind the Ortho driver?

post #10310 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by arbiche View Post

For Science sake.. have anybody tried adding another driver inside the plastic housing behind the Ortho driver?

 

There is no space but I am curious why would you even consider this?   I can't think of any audio principal that would be addressed with stacked drivers in a headphone enclosure.  Subwoofers are the only application I am aware of (isobaric) where this makes sense...

post #10311 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrspeakers View Post

 

There is no space but I am curious why would you even consider this?   I can't think of any audio principal that would be addressed with stacked drivers in a headphone enclosure.  Subwoofers are the only application I am aware of (isobaric) where this makes sense...


Have you ever had a listen to the legendary Linn Isobariks?

 

The principle would not hold up with the ribbon driver.

 

Perhaps he is thinking of a hybrid like the old AKG'sconfused_face_2.gif

post #10312 of 10820

I'm planning to add a Male 4 Pin Mini XLR socket to my T50RP for a balanced cable and just want to confirm the pin numbers and layout. Here's the pinout of a Female 4 Pin Mini XLR socket:

http://robrobinette.com/images/Audio/4_Pin_Mini_XLR_Pinout.jpg

(I'm a new guy so I can't post pics yet)

 

I was planning to leave the standard 3.5mm connector in place for flexibility and solder the 4 new balanced wires to the 3.5mm jack inside the ear cup but after doing some research I realized the 3.5mm jack combines the two grounds which would cause a problem for the balanced line. I could possibly install a microswitch to disconnect the two grounds and switch between the single ended and balanced jacks but I'll probably just take the easy route and disconnect the 3.5mm jack and build 4 Pin Mini XLR single ended and balanced cables. I'm using balanced line in star quad format for the headphone cables pairing the quad's opposing conductors for each channel.

 

I found 10 feet of CANARE L-4E6S STAR QUAD BALANCED MICROPHONE CABLE BULK 21 AWG 4 conductor cable for $11 on ebay.  It has 2 blue wires and 2 white wires. I'll have to use a multi-meter to identify one of each color wire and mark it. I used the marked wire as the negative conductor.

 

Classic 4-pin XLR pinout (pin - signal - wire color):
1 - Left +     Blue
2 - Left -      Blue with mark
3 - Right +   White
4 - Right -    White with mark
 
Since it's a shielded cable I'm going to ground only the amp end of the shield to the connector barrel so the shield will provide interference protection and yet keep the signal lines balanced.
 

For the amp 4 Pin XLR connection I'm using HiFiMAN's diagram of the female full size 4 pin XLR connector:

http://robrobinette.com/images/Audio/HiFiMAN_Pin_Diagram.gif


Edited by robrob - 7/22/13 at 7:05pm
post #10313 of 10820

If the low end is strong and very deep on these headphones i am also ordering a pair!

post #10314 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by hans030390 View Post

The crackling sound is most likely clipping.


Looks like the drivers are being pushed beyond their mechanical limits.

post #10315 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassheadspl View Post

If the low end is strong and very deep on these headphones i am also ordering a pair!
once modded you can have as much bass:rolleyes: as you want
post #10316 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassheadspl View Post


Looks like the drivers are being pushed beyond their mechanical limits.


On these things? Not as likely. More likely the amp. These things can handle a great deal of power.

post #10317 of 10820

The Fostex can indeed go very low in the bass but do need some power.  I listened to Pink Floyd's "Wish You Were Here" last night and I heard some ultra low bass that I had never heard before in 30+ years of listening to that disc on high end equipment.

 

I have an iBasso D-10 but that doesn't have enought power.  I now have a Project Sunrise II and it has more than enough and matches wonderfully with the modified Fostex.

 

I have a DBV3 modified Fostex and I also have a pair that I modified dramatically by making burl maple cups.  I cannot make the woodies sound as good as the DBV3.  Keith has spent countless hour/days/weeks working on these headphones and I expect it would be very very hard to make them any better than the DBV3.

 

Just my 2 cents.
 

post #10318 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post


Have you ever had a listen to the legendary Linn Isobariks?

 

The principle would not hold up with the ribbon driver.

 

Perhaps he is thinking of a hybrid like the old AKG'sconfused_face_2.gif

 

Haven't heard the Linn Isobariks but I have designed 5 or 6 isobaric subs over the years, and to me it's the only way to go for low distortion.  But sadly it doesn't apply to planar drivers, and it's only relevant to bass frequencies.

post #10319 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrspeakers View Post

 

Haven't heard the Linn Isobariks but I have designed 5 or 6 isobaric subs over the years, and to me it's the only way to go for low distortion.  But sadly it doesn't apply to planar drivers, and it's only relevant to bass frequencies.

 

Hence the second line in my post. I suspect the ribbon would be little more than an acoustic trampoline, loading the dynamic driver up past its limits.

 

To hear what an Isobarik can do in a full range speaker get out somewhere and have a listen to the Linn's. I'm not a fan of Linn at the best of times but those were worth a serious listen.

post #10320 of 10820
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

Just got my t50rp in. The cable had problems, no surprise there. Some deoxit fixed it (and I have a vmoda cable en route)

 

The more troubling issue is the rattle of the right side with bass... Should I get a replacement pair? *sigh*

i Thought i was the only one, jeez i wonder if i can get a free replacement pair for this bugged headphone?

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