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2013 Head-Fi Summer Buying Guide (Desktop Amps & DACs)
Last edited: 7/26/13
*Review to come*
Bought those as a portable go-to set (subway use, airplanes, travelling, etc.) and am so far very pleased. I previously used Etymotic IEM's (ER-4P and HF3) which are known for their clarity and...
http://www.head-fi.org/t/685339/new-akg-flagship-k812-first-impression/120#post_10026763 Now I correct the Google translate - I use http://www.dict.cc/ and my (small) knowledge of English I hope...
Sounds great with the modded AKG Q701. Nearly as good with that as my main amp that originally cost $350. Impressive! In fact, the Vali added nothing to the sound of the modded Q701, which is...
*I listened to the Westone 4Rs using iPhone 4S and the latest iPod Classic (6th Generation). The below sums up my listening experience from these sources only.* The Westone 4Rs fit my ears...
Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 688
Gear mentioned in this thread:
It may be clipping, but that probably would affect both channels. If it's volume related, a couple of times we've seen bad drivers or loose couplings to the risers that crackle at certain frequencies, but if it is the driver there may not be a fix. You can try isolating it a bit by using test tones on sinegen.
I'm pretty sure I've read that people have melted the diaphragm before when trying to attach wires to the pads. I'm not exactly going to test it out myself
Any driver transplants that I've done, I've always left a bit of the original wire attached and just soldered to those.
I mean, it's just a plastic after all. I'm very surprised that it didn't melt anything... or if it did, it was too small to be noticeable.
Kapton my friends, kapton... used for space suits.
It is possible, but it's entirely against common thought. General opinion is that the T50RP has great drivers that are limited by the stock plastic housing, not the other way around. While it is possible to make different drivers sound good in a T50RP housing, it's much easier to modify or completely change out the housing to make the stock drivers sing.
As towards how new drivers would affect the sound, it all depends on the driver you choose.
Finally, if you are asking about having more than one driver per ear (which is one way your question can be interpreted), I'd advise against it. Multi-driver headphones, while possible and occasionally produced, generally just end up sounding congested and are inferior to standard two-driver cans.
There is no space but I am curious why would you even consider this? I can't think of any audio principal that would be addressed with stacked drivers in a headphone enclosure. Subwoofers are the only application I am aware of (isobaric) where this makes sense...
Have you ever had a listen to the legendary Linn Isobariks?
The principle would not hold up with the ribbon driver.
Perhaps he is thinking of a hybrid like the old AKG's
I'm planning to add a Male 4 Pin Mini XLR socket to my T50RP for a balanced cable and just want to confirm the pin numbers and layout. Here's the pinout of a Female 4 Pin Mini XLR socket:
(I'm a new guy so I can't post pics yet)
I was planning to leave the standard 3.5mm connector in place for flexibility and solder the 4 new balanced wires to the 3.5mm jack inside the ear cup but after doing some research I realized the 3.5mm jack combines the two grounds which would cause a problem for the balanced line. I could possibly install a microswitch to disconnect the two grounds and switch between the single ended and balanced jacks but I'll probably just take the easy route and disconnect the 3.5mm jack and build 4 Pin Mini XLR single ended and balanced cables. I'm using balanced line in star quad format for the headphone cables pairing the quad's opposing conductors for each channel.
I found 10 feet of CANARE L-4E6S STAR QUAD BALANCED MICROPHONE CABLE BULK 21 AWG 4 conductor cable for $11 on ebay. It has 2 blue wires and 2 white wires. I'll have to use a multi-meter to identify one of each color wire and mark it. I used the marked wire as the negative conductor.
For the amp 4 Pin XLR connection I'm using HiFiMAN's diagram of the female full size 4 pin XLR connector:
Edited by robrob - 7/22/13 at 7:05pm
On these things? Not as likely. More likely the amp. These things can handle a great deal of power.
The Fostex can indeed go very low in the bass but do need some power. I listened to Pink Floyd's "Wish You Were Here" last night and I heard some ultra low bass that I had never heard before in 30+ years of listening to that disc on high end equipment.
I have an iBasso D-10 but that doesn't have enought power. I now have a Project Sunrise II and it has more than enough and matches wonderfully with the modified Fostex.
I have a DBV3 modified Fostex and I also have a pair that I modified dramatically by making burl maple cups. I cannot make the woodies sound as good as the DBV3. Keith has spent countless hour/days/weeks working on these headphones and I expect it would be very very hard to make them any better than the DBV3.
Just my 2 cents.
Haven't heard the Linn Isobariks but I have designed 5 or 6 isobaric subs over the years, and to me it's the only way to go for low distortion. But sadly it doesn't apply to planar drivers, and it's only relevant to bass frequencies.
- Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
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