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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 674

post #10096 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by geetarman49 View Post

i'm in canada too & there are plenty of michaels craft shops around.
here you go:   http://locationsca.michaels.com/

 

Oh i see there some micheal crafting in qc, but no whwre near me.

I guess 'homer dessert' might stock 1mm thick felt too, ill jist check with them.
Edited by Xprime4 - 4/6/13 at 5:28pm
post #10097 of 10678

I have finally bought some plasticine to fill in the baffles. This is the result after filling every compartments with plasticine.

 

I also filled the rim of the cups and on the baffle to produce a much better seal. Because I couldn't find acoustic foam such as Acoustipack or Silverstone Foam yet, I filled it with cotton pads to reduce resonances and reverberations.

 

It really does improve the sound a lot! Here are my impressions:

The bass is finally tight now with lots of impact and texture. It has a lot of tactility and can keep up very well during very fast parts. Upper mids are now less recessed which makes vocals sound meaty and thick and snare drums has the timbre and tonality of a real snare drum (before it sounded more like tambourines). Treble is more present but more in the 9000Hz to 10kHz region because there is a bit more sibilance on the vocals. 

Things that I didn't like very much is that the vocals aren't really as forward as I want it to be, they still are very much recessed. Also, even though the the treble is more present, it is now more sibilant which can be a bit annoying. I would also like to have more mids and upper mids.

 

Now the next step is pretty much cosmetic, I will paint the hangers to matt black. Any tips? I will be using aerosol paint. Should I sand it first? Or is there no need to?

 

This is how it looks now:

 


Edited by VortexBlast - 4/7/13 at 5:32am
post #10098 of 10678
Those are Hifiman pleathers right?
post #10099 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgray91 View Post

Those are Hifiman pleathers right?

 

Yup, came straight off of my HE-500. Fits to the T50RP like a glove. The rings are still in place to have a bit more bass.

post #10100 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by VortexBlast View Post

 

Yup, came straight off of my HE-500. Fits to the T50RP like a glove. The rings are still in place to have a bit more bass.

I feel that the mids are more recessed with the Hifiman pads then with the 840 pads so maybe you should try these if you haven't already done that.

post #10101 of 10678
Good luck painting the hanging rods. I have tried a couple different spray paints and none have been durable enough to handle the slider during adjustments. Best bet is probably powder coating or anodizing.
post #10102 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter123 View Post

I feel that the mids are more recessed with the Hifiman pads then with the 840 pads so maybe you should try these if you haven't already done that.

 

I don't have access to Shure 840 pads unfortunately so the Hifiman Pleathers will do it for the moment. I think that the recessed midrange is due to the thick screen on the pad, removing it might make a difference (don't want to though).

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Good luck painting the hanging rods. I have tried a couple different spray paints and none have been durable enough to handle the slider during adjustments. Best bet is probably powder coating or anodizing.

Hmmm... I will still try it. If it doesn't work, I might have another option.

The other option that I'm thinking of is to cover it with a matt black car vinyl.

post #10103 of 10678

Maybe try direct damping the back of the drivers with stiff felt and a temporary modified 3 mm x 1.5 mm bass port over 1 of the cup vent slots using masking tape on the outside of the cup vents? This seems to work pretty well for bringing midrange forward. If bass is too diminished, you could try making larger bass ports in 1 mm (width) increments until you get it dialed in.

 

If the treble is too "hot," place a bit of cotton or fiberglass over the ear side of the drivers and under the pad dust covers; try different amounts/thickness. You could also try jgray91's approach of covering the ear side of the driver (completely vs partially?) with Transpore tape or maybe Micropore tape.

 

As peter123 points out, pads make a significant difference to FR and SQ. "Pad Rolling" is one of the easiest mods, if you have different types of pads you can try.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by VortexBlast View Post

I have finally bought some plasticine to fill in the baffles. This is the result after filling every compartments with plasticine.

 

I also filled the rim of the cups and on the baffle to produce a much better seal. Because I couldn't find acoustic foam such as Acoustipack or Silverstone Foam yet, I filled it with cotton pads to reduce resonances and reverberations.

 

It really does improve the sound a lot! Here are my impressions:

The bass is finally tight now with lots of impact and texture. It has a lot of tactility and can keep up very well during very fast parts. Upper mids are now less recessed which makes vocals sound meaty and thick and snare drums has the timbre and tonality of a real snare drum (before it sounded more like tambourines). Treble is more present but more in the 9000Hz to 10kHz region because there is a bit more sibilance on the vocals. 

Things that I didn't like very much is that the vocals aren't really as forward as I want it to be, they still are very much recessed. Also, even though the the treble is more present, it is now more sibilant which can be a bit annoying. I would also like to have more mids and upper mids.

 

Now the next step is pretty much cosmetic, I will paint the hangers to matt black. Any tips? I will be using aerosol paint. Should I sand it first? Or is there no need to?

 

This is how it looks now:

 

post #10104 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

You could also try jgray91's approach of covering the ear side of the driver (completely vs partially?) with Transpore tape or maybe Micropore tape.



This could be my next trial: partial or complete cover over the driver, ear-side, and also using micropore. I think micropore tape is easier to get elsewhere not in the USA, since it could be more well known as medical tape.
post #10105 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Maybe try direct damping the back of the drivers with stiff felt and a temporary modified 3 mm x 1.5 mm bass port over 1 of the cup vent slots using masking tape on the outside of the cup vents? This seems to work pretty well for bringing midrange forward. If bass is too diminished, you could try making larger bass ports in 1 mm (width) increments until you get it dialed in.

 

If the treble is too "hot," place a bit of cotton or fiberglass over the ear side of the drivers and under the pad dust covers; try different amounts/thickness. You could also try jgray91's approach of covering the ear side of the driver (completely vs partially?) with Transpore tape or maybe Micropore tape.

 

As peter123 points out, pads make a significant difference to FR and SQ. "Pad Rolling" is one of the easiest mods, if you have different types of pads you can try.

 

 

Thanks! I will try it later on.

Question though, what does a reflex dot placed on the middle of the driver do to the sound? And what kind of material is it?

post #10106 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by VortexBlast View Post

Now the next step is pretty much cosmetic, I will paint the hangers to matt black. Any tips? I will be using aerosol paint. Should I sand it first? Or is there no need to?

As Fraggler said, you're going to have to powdercoat or anodise it. A black lacquer might also be tough enough to withstand the sliding.

post #10107 of 10678

yay.... just picked up 2 t50rp's at a garage sale for dirt cheap, a 3rd off the forums, some other head-fiers leftover modding stuff and 840 pads.....figured since i have an extra pair of hm5 pads (jaycar ones) id give this a go.  can anyone tell me how wide the wall of the cup well is.... the area in the red circle.  I wanna do a dual entry quick release with either mini jacks or mini xlrs.  And no im not just lazy..... i cant measure them myself because while they're at home.... im at the hospital.  I'd like to be able to order the connectors asap.....tia


Edited by TekeRugburn - 4/8/13 at 4:23am
post #10108 of 10678

I took mine apart and did a few things today. First I sealed them off completely. I sealed off around the jack, and I sealed around where the wires come through the cups. I also put some non-hardening modeling clay around the rim of the baffle to create a gasket where the baffle meets the rest of the enclosure. I also got some double sided tape to secure the 840 pads to make sure no air could escape there either. So now the only place that air can escape is through the modified bass ports. For the bass port I currently have 3 pen tip size holes poked through a piece of masking tape covering the outer grill.

 

Doing this seems to have tightened up the bass, and added some more powerful extension on the very bottom. 

post #10109 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangster View Post

As Fraggler said, you're going to have to powdercoat or anodise it. A black lacquer might also be tough enough to withstand the sliding.

 

.... Black sharpie evil_smiley.gif  .... Muahahahah!

post #10110 of 10678

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Edited by jibzilla - 6/3/14 at 11:26pm
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