Done - 4-pin balanced Shure SRH840 modification - Page 3

The reason the heatshrink turned out crappy (sorry) on the last pis is cause you have to heat all side of the heatshrink evenly.

Lol, and cut it straight, and be covering something that has been soldered well, and probably use something other than a lighter... The main reason it looks lumpy is because it is covering a lumpy connector. I stripped everything down to the metal and had almost no room to solder neatly (no nice connectors or big plates to terminate to like on neutriks or switchcrafts). I used some electrical tape to make sure wires didn't accidentally get soldered to the other channel. I left it on and heatshrinked on top of it. No real way I could think of to get it smooth. Part of it has also been pushed back a little by the socket in the headphones. It is hidden in the cup as well so it looks pretty solid when hooked up. I think I am doing pretty well for having just started making cables and soldering for the first time this weekend

no lighter is fine just look at it close (strait down). the heatshrink is thicker on some sides. i can even see it in the pic.
you can fill it with hot glue you don't really "need" a hard barrel

Yeah, there are a couple layers on there and I didn't get them lined up perfectly. Again, it doesn't much matter to me since it stays plugged into the headphone. With a proper plug (if one really does exist) it becomes moot anyways.

Thanks for the pointers, though. Maybe I will do some heatshrink practice while I wait for some more wire to arrive.

Brilliant job, Peter! You have become my number one hero for the moment.

As my 2.5mm mogami cable has gotten a little more burn time, I think the dynamics of my cans have gotten better over the stock cable. Hard to AB them quickly, but I do think they sound better. And I have found a semi-solution to the locking plug. I put a bit of hotglue around the plug and then shaped it to match (approximately) to the shape of the locking mechanism. Short story, it works. No satisfying click since the hotglue is a little soft, but it holds the cable in there very snuggly. If the hotglue ever comes off, no biggie, can redo it. A very nice solution for someone who doesn't own a drill or the balls to take it to his only pair of nice headphones. Just doesn't look pretty when out of the socket

I will certainly be following in Peter's footsteps with the mod in the near future, although instead of drilling out the hole, I might use a cable based mini XLR male and have it hang down through the stock hole. Maybe a bad idea due to strain on the wires, but I will hot glue it all down for additional strain relief.

I hope more DIY's get in on this hot Shure 840 mod action. I love seeing other people's handiwork to help inspire and guide my own efforts.

Clean re-cable job indeed. Well done!

Can anybody suggest me some good 2.5mm plugs for DIY?
I've seen some 3.5mm and 6.3mm plugs from Neutrik etc. and I'm wondering if there are also high qualtiy 2.5mm plugs for diying
Thanks

Specifically for the SRH840's or just in general?

I still haven't found a DIY plug easily purchased that will fit as well as the one I harvested from a no name cable that I have no idea where I got it.

Markertek has several different 2.5mm plugs if you aare simply looking for some for a project. I don't know if Neutrik or Switchcraft make any. Cables, Connectors & Adapters Audio Connectors 3.5, 2.5mm Mini Connectors at Markertek.com

This one looks nice: http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=1438

I tried to use switchcraft mini-xlr on my headphones for the same purpose as scootermafia stated, and I feel that there is a slight decrease in sound quality from the extra connectors. Not something you'd worry about with headphones you'd actually connect to a DAP, but if you have a balanced desktop setup just letting you know that there might be a slight compromise in SQ for having a detachable cable.

Hey, Fraggler, thanks for the cabling ideas!. I've been wanting to do something about the cable that came with my srh750dj's. I now plan to make a cable, although I may just buy something like this for now. Seems kinda convenient.

That it similar to what I dissected to make my cable. Mine was black, though, so way cooler The key element for me since I don't have an easy way to shave down metal is to find a 2.5mm jack that has the circular metal piece at the base of the shaft in as small a diameter as possible. I really don't think the standard sized ones will work because of the locking tab in the cup. You may also need to shave down the casing on the 2.5mm end to get it to fit depending on the size. Please try the cable and let everyone know how it works out. As heads up, though, you might find yourself with a degradation in sound using the wire on that cable. I certainly did when I did my first ghetto cable. Good luck.

Scooter- any more pictures of the balanced rewire- like the board or anything else?
Just bought these and want to balance them.
Thanks

More pic's?

picture of internal wiring please