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CKKIII Parts list

post #1 of 23
10/11/09 at 11:19pm
Thread Starter 
Does anyone have a parts list for the CKKIII drawn up with part numbers from either Mouser or DigiKey? I'm having trouble locating some of these parts, partially because I don't really know what I'm looking for.

I think I have most of it right but I'd really like to verify against a parts list from someone who's done this before so that I'm sure I'm buying the right stuff.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 23
10/11/09 at 11:45pm
Uhm... perhaps the CKK-III website? It has parts lists for both Mouser and Digikey.
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post #3 of 23
10/12/09 at 12:40am
Thread Starter 
Yes, I know, but if you actually try to buy several of the parts they are listed as obsolete and the replacements suggested are not in fact the same resistance/capacitance as the original and thus I assume they won't work.
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post #4 of 23
10/12/09 at 1:20am
Strange - I built a CKK-III a few months of months ago with parts from Mouser, I think there is only one pair of 3900pF caps that was obsolete and a replacement was easily found - just look for same capacitance value and at least same voltage.
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post #5 of 23
10/12/09 at 1:28am
Thread Starter 
I found one replacement, but another was completely not available, the matched replacement was a nonstocking part with a 9 week lead time. Jeff at glassjar is helping me out with a kit, provided it isn't that much more expensive relative to spending a couple hours sourcing all these parts.
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post #6 of 23
10/12/09 at 1:35am
What parts are you having a problem with?
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post #7 of 23
10/12/09 at 1:50am
Thread Starter 
Currently, the caps for C1, C2, C10, C11 the 0.47uF 100V 5%...the part listed comes up as no result in any permutation of part number or name. The only other cap that comes up with the same values is a Vishay/Sprague V-730P474X5100 but it doesn't tell me what the lead spacing is so I have no idea if that will fit, or if it's anywhere near the quality of the Wima I was trying to get. Also the lead time is 9 weeks.

I'm checking digikey now for comparable options but I'm getting frustrated trying to sort through a zillion part numbers.
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post #8 of 23
10/12/09 at 1:57am
C1, C2, C10 and C11 are .047uF caps.
You can just increase the voltage since the psyical size is the same as the Wimas suggested in the parts list.

Try Mouser # 505-MKP20.047/250/5
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post #9 of 23
10/12/09 at 2:04am
Thread Starter 
Is there a potential replacement for C33-C36 2200uF 35V? I'm going to have to order from both places and that's fine, but I can't find the equivalent part in stock at either site.

Thanks so much everyone!
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post #10 of 23
10/12/09 at 2:14am
Mouser part numbers for Panasonic FC series caps are:
667-EEU-FC1H221 (220uF 50V) (same as Digi-key # P10325-ND)
667-EEU-FC1C102 (1000uF 16V) (same as Digi-key # P10253-ND)
667-EEU-FC1H222 (2200uF 50V) (same as Digi-key # P10335-ND)
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post #11 of 23
10/12/09 at 10:41am
Thread Starter 
Ok, so now I'm getting stuck further down the list where a lot of parts are "your choice" like the power module and phono input jacks. I've never had to order parts before, I can build all this stuff with help but as far as parts, does anyone have any suggestions for part numbers for these two things?
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post #12 of 23
10/12/09 at 11:11am
search for "IEC power entry" and "RCA phono".
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post #13 of 23
10/12/09 at 11:18am
RCA Jacks
IEC Module (AC in, fuse, no switch)

These are what I used. You can look around for Schurter and Qualitek on Mouser. I remember there being a $9 Schurter that has a switch and fuse combined.
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post #14 of 23
10/12/09 at 11:23am
Thread Starter 
Will this work for the IEC module?

DC11.0001.201 Schurter Power Entry Modules

Also, what are people using for volume knobs on these things? It says "must fit shaft" but doesn't say what that number is.
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post #15 of 23
10/12/09 at 5:20pm
Most of the "usual" pots have either a 6mm or 1/4" diameter shaft. If you're using an Alps RK27 pot, it's 6mm.

As for that IEC module, yes of course it would work, but whether it's appropriate for you depends on your circumstances. Does it fit in your chosen enclosure with enough room for everything else? Since it has a built-in power switch, it might simplify your wiring a little, but it will be on the back, is that what you want? It doesn't appear to have a built-in fuse holder, so you'll need to wire one in, It's a snap-in mount for a relatively thin panel. If yor panel is going to be thick, or if it's going to be non-metal, then maybe a screw-mount might be better. Etc, etc.
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