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Oil grade/type for this car specifically

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Vehicle / specs: 1988 Nissan Sentra coupe 4cyl 1.6L, Manual trans @ 5 gears, standard (i.e. not biofuel or diesel). I don't believe it's the California model (those were designed differently)
Driver: 24 years old, male. Has multiple speed tickets (see below)
Usage / Wear&Tear :
1) I drive the car like you would probably assume a 24yo male who just got his license in 2007 drives :P
2) I try very hard to always change @ the 3000mi interval.
3) Tranny was rebuilt roughly 6 months ago, I think the tranny is like refurb or something but the clutch is brand new.
4) Engine block etc is a pull & drop from a 1985 Sentra, which was also dropped from another Sentra so it's kind of a frankenengine at this point The block has roughly 100k to 120,000 miles on it I would imagine, this is a guess and I can't determine the real number unfortunately (long story). Odometer reads just over 132,000.
5) Car was built with A/C, but due to the engine swapping it wouldn't fit, so the extra fan between the radiator grille & engine block is still intact and works when you engage the AC dash switch, but the whole A/C system itself is not connected and has been pulled. ( no complaints from me, better mpg woo!)

* Point of interest, the clutch slips in 5th gear every so often, my mechanic says that's normal after the tranny rebuild and new clutch which I think is BS. I'll have another mechanic look at it when I have the time and money. Currently using 75/90 gear oil, if I switch up to straight 90 or down to straight 75 could that help this issue? Shifting is hard too, not usually when driving but for example when coasting and trying to shift down from 2nd to 1st, or when shifting from N to 1st or R, it doesn't like that and I have to kind of shove it sometimes. Pressing the brakes and clutch pedal, putting back into N, and releasing both pedals, then changing to 1st or R usually works smooth without muscle needed. not sure if this will affect engine oil needed but worth a mention.

So what are we looking at? In the past i've used 5/30, 10/30, 10/30 High Mileage, and 10/40. Not sure if I should be using conventional, High Mileage, or full synthetic and what grade. I swear the engine runs rough with 10/40 and likes 5/30, but my mechanic said the lowest I should run is 10/30 so I have no idea.
post #2 of 6
5/30 conventional.

Japanese engines typically have "tighter" tolerances so they like the "thinner" 5/30.

On an older engine that hasn't been running synthetic its' whole life, then don't start putting synthetic in it now. The "thinner" synthetic will seep its' way through the seal that your rings have created and can loosen up some particles, creating leakage and blowby issues.

Your clutch and tranny are not normal. Sounds like a throwout bearing is funky at the very least.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Cool, thanks What's your opinion on the 75k+ "High Mileage" oils such as Valvoline MaxLife?
post #4 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sduibek View Post
Cool, thanks What's your opinion on the 75k+ "High Mileage" oils such as Valvoline MaxLife?
They perform well. One of the more truthful gimmicks in the oil world.

Honestly though, just use a name brand conventional oil, a good filter, and change the oil regularly, and you will be in good shape.

Believe it or not, WalMart's line of filters are very good. Better than the cardboard monsters that are Fram.
post #5 of 6
The two numbers for oil are for measuring the viscosity or how quickly or slowly the oil flows when it is cold and when it is warm, basically they measure it at the freezing point of water (the first number) and the boiling point of water (the second number). If your mechanic recommends 10/30 you can run 5/30 if you want (it is thinner for easier starting on cold days).

Basically, you should read the owners manual and use what they recommend. As a rough guideline, once there is heat coming out of the heating vents your engine is operating at the higher of the two numbers and will stay there until you shut the engine off.

If I was going to guess (and it is only a guess) I suspect you either bent a linkage rod when you were taking out or putting in the engine or there is slight differences between the way the linkages attach to the new engine than there was to the old engine. The best way to find out is to pop the hood on a similar car and compare the two.
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
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