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grado rs1/rs2 owners..please help!!!

post #1 of 11
9/25/09 at 6:35am
Thread Starter 
Hi guys,

well I'm doing some initial planning on replacing my sr60's plastic outer housing with a wooden housing. My dad has all the shebang at his house to actually do the making..he's a fairly competent woodworker (made a fully working minature wishing well for my mums garden )
anyway, looking here:
HeadMods: Grado Cups
I think that'd be an easy task for me and my dad, but what would be really sweet is to make some cups similar to the rs1/rs2's.
But not having the welly to afford some of these I don't hold some critical measurements that would afford me success in this project.
These are the measurements I believe I need:
http://www.upload3r.com/serve/250909/1253871243.jpg


if someone with rs1/rs2's could be really really very helpful and take these measurements and provide them in mm I would be eternally grateful and I would buy you a virtual beer
the rest I can get from my sr60's (such as the diamater of the cup for the driver unit to sit in)
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post #2 of 11
9/25/09 at 7:56am

RS-1 RS-2

Hello there one thing you might want to know about the RS-1 and RS-2 is that they are made a little diffrent then the other grados.
They are not cups that fit over the plastic speaker housing.
The speaker goes through the front and the housing is all one piece that is why they are hard to recable and most people dont know this they think they are made in two pieces like other grados.I guess what I am trying to say they are two pieces just diffrent then the other grados. The out side piece you can see is all one piece not two. Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 11
9/25/09 at 8:06am
Thread Starter 
I figured this out about 10 mintues ago from this picture:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3265/...79cb91d7_b.jpg

lol!
I'm quickly paint sketching a similar design but using two pieces, the top ring then the cylinder, and the cylinder will have an inner 'lip' for the driver unit to sit on. Give me a few mins to finish the paint sketches and I'll show you what I mean
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post #4 of 11
9/25/09 at 9:22am
Ok, on the RS1s (in mm):

Blue: 60
Green: 38
White: 38
Red:8 (incl. chamfer: 10)
Pink: 9
Yellow: 2

hope this helps, the colours made it a lot easier to describe lol.
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post #5 of 11
9/25/09 at 9:23am
Thread Starter 
so this is my idea, a two part solution.
The top ring:


and the cylinder which will house the driver unit:


and then the finished product:


please excuse my wonderful paint skills.
So the top ring will have the mesh attached to it then be attached to the cylinder

am I being stupid doing it this way?

edit:
Quote:
Ok, on the RS1s (in mm):

Blue: 60
Green: 38
White: 38
Red:8 (incl. chamfer: 10)
Pink: 9
Yellow: 2

hope this helps, the colours made it a lot easier to describe lol.
thankyou sooooo soooo much

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post #6 of 11
9/25/09 at 9:38am
Damn thats some good virtual beer
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post #7 of 11
9/26/09 at 12:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangermouse2003 View Post
Damn thats some good virtual beer
Dangermouse2003, you are a nice chap for doing that on the OP's behalf.
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post #8 of 11
9/26/09 at 1:37am
Before making the wood housing for the SR60, I think it's best that you try your best to remove the driver out of the plastic housing first. Not only that you need the dimension of the outside, you need the inside dimension as well. It's probably a good idea to make the housing in one piece instead of so many. A lathe (the tool that puts a piece of wood on spin) is probably your best friend to make this chamber. I tried a long time ago converting my MS1 to MS-Pro, but without the lathe I could only go so far (I abandoned the project soon after).

Note that the RS1 yoke (the crescent shaped plastic piece that holds the headphones together) is different from the RS2 and the SR60. The RS1 has a one piece metal that goes all around the housing, while the RS2 has the same cheap plastic yoke as the SR-60.

If you were to make a wooden housing to fit over the black driver housing, your yoke will not fit. It's very easy to crack a 2mm thick piece of wood with a drill. A slight misalignment will completely destroy all your hard work.
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post #9 of 11
9/26/09 at 9:30am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by priest View Post
Dangermouse2003, you are a nice chap for doing that on the OP's behalf.
he is a very nice chap indeed

Quote:
Originally Posted by xkRoWx View Post
Before making the wood housing for the SR60, I think it's best that you try your best to remove the driver out of the plastic housing first. Not only that you need the dimension of the outside, you need the inside dimension as well. It's probably a good idea to make the housing in one piece instead of so many. A lathe (the tool that puts a piece of wood on spin) is probably your best friend to make this chamber. I tried a long time ago converting my MS1 to MS-Pro, but without the lathe I could only go so far (I abandoned the project soon after).

Note that the RS1 yoke (the crescent shaped plastic piece that holds the headphones together) is different from the RS2 and the SR60. The RS1 has a one piece metal that goes all around the housing, while the RS2 has the same cheap plastic yoke as the SR-60.

If you were to make a wooden housing to fit over the black driver housing, your yoke will not fit. It's very easy to crack a 2mm thick piece of wood with a drill. A slight misalignment will completely destroy all your hard work.
thankyou for the advice..well I think now after having caught grado-itis I'm going to sell on my sr60's and instead of getting some westone 3's I will be getting some UM2's instead and that way I will have enough for some sr125's
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post #10 of 11
9/26/09 at 11:26am
Another thing to consider is that the circumference of the the RS-2 cup is slightly smaller than the RS-1/MS-Pro. I know because I currently own both.
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post #11 of 11
11/15/11 at 2:12pm

Hi I would like to present the origin of Polish greet colleagues and immediately apologize for the English, ask for specific dimensions rs1 very please.


Edited by pablo82 - 11/15/11 at 2:14pm
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